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Old 10-31-2011, 03:15 PM   #771
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If you go to the wd 40 web sight they address the fish oil myth and you will find it does have kerosen in it as well as mineral oil and mineral spirits.Kerosen does not come from coal although its some times called that. It is simply refined diesel.

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Old 10-31-2011, 11:43 PM   #772
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There is no fish oil in WD-40. Mostly kerosene which is considered a light oil. Along with some additives, it displaces water (w=water, d=displacement) which is good but hardly unique. We used it in the Marines (1968) but there are better products available now. It still sells well and probably always will. It has a nasty habit of slowly evaporating and turning into a waxy gunk that will render a firearm useless. No rust in long term storage, but you need to spray it off before taking it hunting or trusting your life with it. I had to share my pump shotgun with a friend with a Browning auto that was sprayed down with WD-40 and pulled back out a few months later. It was froze up solid in a 20 degree duck blind. I like LPS-1. Leaves a dry lube but no brown gunk. Rem-Oil is a good product. I sold WD-40 in 55 gal. barrels when I sold industrial supplies. It has a place. I won't put it on my firearms.

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Old 11-01-2011, 01:33 AM   #773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buffalo11 View Post
Kerosine actually.. Known also as Coal Oil

wPm
That is why it smells the way it does...

Bill
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Old 11-01-2011, 11:10 AM   #774
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clean after every firing

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Old 11-02-2011, 02:54 PM   #775
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Originally Posted by jh45gun View Post
Well tranny fluid is a big part of the Ed's Red Recipe
Yeah, it's what makes " Ed's Red"- red-

I'm still in an experimental stage, but I'm finding I like Dex III on

Combloc bolts, springs, gas rods, and carriers.

I'm also finding Acetone by itself doesn't do much.

If you mix Janitorial Ammonia with a little Dawn and a bit of water,

you have a decent copper scrubber.
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Old 11-02-2011, 05:25 PM   #776
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I suppose if I had to endorse an actual "Gun Lubricant", this would get my vote. I got some with my LWRC AR-15 rifles, and I have to admit the stuff stays where it's put. I used it on my Bushmaster A-2 rifle the last time I had it out and the bolt carrier group ran very slick, and it cleaned up nice afterward. But for the price I'll stick with Mobil 1 20W-50.

EWL Gun Oil 16oz Liquid

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Old 11-03-2011, 02:19 PM   #777
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Default depends on make model & material

Guns with aluminum parts & frames I clean after every shooting as they are a bit more reactive to corrosives and abrasion. Carbon steel I use at least a lubricating wipe down but it depends on the ammo I use if it gets detailed. Stainless is the same way.

Some guns show more wear and tear with the breakdown process than the dirt. This question is kind of like what type of gas and oil do you put in your car? Well is it a BMW, Porsche, or a KIA? Not all general gun cleaning practices work with all guns. Even the owner manuals state and have different practices.

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Old 11-03-2011, 02:28 PM   #778
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Guns with aluminum parts & frames I clean after every shooting as they are a bit more reactive to corrosives and abrasion. Carbon steel I use at least a lubricating wipe down but it depends on the ammo I use if it gets detailed. Stainless is the same way.

Some guns show more wear and tear with the breakdown process than the dirt. This question is kind of like what type of gas and oil do you put in your car? Well is it a BMW, Porsche, or a KIA? Not all general gun cleaning practices work with all guns. Even the owner manuals state and have different practices.
Soo, ah, what do you like to use?
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Old 11-03-2011, 06:26 PM   #779
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Default Wd-40

I have to agree with Ivandog on the dry-off problem with WD-40. I haven't used Mobil One (yet), but I will certainly try it, although the Dextron-Kero mix seems to work too.

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Old 11-03-2011, 08:51 PM   #780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stillwater View Post
WD-40 stands for Water Dispersant, 40th iteration.

WD-40 isn't a very good lubricant, or metal preservative. However, it is a good penetrant.

Bill
I'm not so sure I can agree with that. A while back I found a test done on several lubes (don't remember where), and was actually surprised that WD-40 did so well, better than every thing tested (according to the data), except Lee Case Lube. Of course it is just a bunch of tabulated data; no corroboration, but the test seems pretty involved--I don't want to attempt to redo it. However, it is an eye opener. Unfortunately, it didn't include 'DuraLube which as I recall was subject to some pressure stress tests, and did pretty well.

I will include what I saved here, but it is pretty involved, and if the Admin wants to move it to "Knowledge..." with a link here that's understandable. I would do it but would probably bungle the attempt.
Please excuse the roughness as this had to be reformated a couple of times, and wouldn't paste here intact. The original is in 'Excel'.
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Newboy's “Slick” Test

Every time I enter a gun store, I see a lot of new,“miracle” gun oils. Some of these will even publish results of tests showing how their product is superior to every other product on the market.
I decided to run a test to compare some of these products to see if any really were superior, in regards to lubricity.

As a disclaimer, I realize lubricity is only one of many important characteristics of oil. Some others are film strength, viscosity, corrosion resistance, ad infinitum. The scope of my testing did not test any of these other characteristics. I was only interested in how slippery the oils were. One of the claims of the newer oils, which looks promising, is that they penetrate the metals on a molecular level, leaving a slippery surface, even after the oil is wiped off. I also tested this claim.

My apparatus consisted of two 1 ¼” chrome plated steel ball bearings, welded together. I also had a piece of extruded aluminum angle, hinged at one end. I put the balls in the “v” groove of the aluminum, and elevated one end. From the angle of the aluminum at which the balls began to slide, I could calculate the amount of force necessary to move the balls (Force=m*a*sine?). From this I could calculate the frictional force we had to overcome (Friction=N*m), and the coefficient of friction for each oil (N). However, all of these numbers are proportional to the angle involved, so I am simply showing the angle involved in each case. The smaller the angle, the slicker the oil.
Upon completion of one sample, I would clean the apparatus by wiping everything with a solvent. Then, I would re-test the balls dry (no oil present), as a control. In this manner I felt that I could determine if any of the oils really were penetrating the metal. If this occurred, I would abrade the surface of the aluminum with Scotch-Brite until the control returned to normal, before going to the next sample. The oils which penetrated the metal are marked in the note section as leaving residue after cleaning.

Test Results

Oil / Manufacturer / Angle (deg) / Notes
3 in 1 oil 18
Apiezon L Apiezon 18
Break Free CLP 17
Castor oil 18
Corrosion X 19 left residue after cleaning
Dillon Case Lube Dillon 17 Lanolin with alcohol carrier
Hoppe's gun oil Hoppe's 23
Imperial Sizing Wax Redding 18
Krytox DuPont 17
Lee Case Lube Lee 13
Lithium grease Permatex 19
Lube Shot Browning 18
Lube-it 8 Syon 19
Marvel Mystery Oil 20
Mil Oil 46 17 left residue after cleaning
Militec Militec 19 left residue after cleaning
Mineral oil 18
Mobil 1 Mobil 18
Moly Dry Spray 32
Motor Oil Valvoline 20
No Oil (dry) 27
Penn Reel Oil Penn 22
Reel X 19
RemOil w/Teflon Remington 17 left residue after cleaning
RIG Oil 16
RP-10 MPC Reel Power 21
Shimano Reel Oil Shimano 19
Silicote Reel Oil Abu Garcia 21 left residue after cleaning
STP Oil Treatment STP 19
Suber Lube 21 left residue after cleaning
SynFilm 32 Royal Purple 18
Tetra Gun Grease Tetra 21
Tetra Gun Oil Tetra 20 left residue after cleaning
Ultra fine Gun Oil Browning 17
Vacuum Pump oil Varian 24
Vaseline 17
WD-40 15 left residue after cleaning
X-1R Grease 19
X-1R Oil 18
ZeroFriction 19 left residue after cleaning

Initially, I expected to see a few oils which would really stand apart from the crowd. This did not prove to be the case.

As far as firearms and fishing reels are concerned, a person would do well to try any of the oils which do, in fact, penetrate the metal. Please note that these types of oils should be applied to a clean metal surface to work properly. Also note that some of the synthetics will not mix with the hydrocarbon oils. However, it is a mistake to assume that the $10.00 per ounce oils lubricate any better than the cheaper ones. The differences are relatively minor.

As for myself, I will not be concerned for many years, as I still have to use up all of these samples I purchased for testing.

Wm. George 19-Nov-02
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