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Old 10-03-2011, 05:18 PM   #51
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Default Gun Cleaning

It is and has always been my practice to thoroughly clean and Lube a weapon after every use, If it will be stored for any length of time I will leave a very light film of oil in the Bore and lightly oil all moving parts I use RemOil for this purpose. If the weapon is my Carry weapon it is cleaned the bore dry the Slide Lightly Lubes for smooth action and prior to charging the Mag it is cleaned and a light Silicon Lube applied to prevent Feed Malfunctions from the Box.
Note! Any long term storage does require a wipe down and inspection, on a regular basis, and if store in a closed environment like a gun safe some care to prevent moisture buildup is a necessity. The use if a good Silicon Cloth is useful for the Wipe Down, of all surfaces.

Cleaning Products Used Pro-Shot Rods, Mops, and Jajs,
RemOil Spray Lube,
Pro-Shot 1 Step Cleaner and Lubricant, If really Dirty, I use Remington Bore Cleaner,
Pro-Gold Superior Firearm Lubrication and Protection on Semi-Auto Slides

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Old 10-03-2011, 05:21 PM   #52
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Default Gun Cleaning Process.

Hello.

The cleaning process I use for precision rifles is on following links.

BRS Custom Rifles. Gun Silencer for rifle and pistol.

birgrunar's Channel - YouTube

I hope this be of some use !

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Old 10-03-2011, 05:23 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by c3shooter View Post
Varies, depending on the gun.

22 Rimfire, clean when accuracy begins to drop, or fails to feed.

CCW weapon, clean after every firing before carrying.

Large bore pistol- about every 500 rounds, or before prolonged storage.

Large bore rifle- about every 200 rounds, before storage

Shotgun- before end of season storage

EXCEPTION- Corrosive MILSURP ammo or muzzleloaders- clean after every shooting session before storing.
This is pretty close to me as well. If I know Im going to shoot again within maybe the next week, I won't bother re-cleaning, especially if it isn't a defensive gun.

Though, I use Mobile 1 for both cleaning and lubing, and occasionally use silicone spray for intermittent cleaning / relubrication of firing pin channels and such.

I started using Mobile 1 for lubrication because it is also designed to tenaciously protect metal-metal interfaces, in high-pressure, high-temperature, dirty environments, but you get basically a lifetime supply for $5.

However, its detergents are so effective that I'd often go to lube after "cleaning" and the rag / toothbrush would still come out black because the oil dissolved even more grime that other cleaners missed. So, I started just using it for cleaning as well. I use a toothbrush with a few drops of the oil and scrub the gun down, then I aggressively wipe it off with paper towels. Then I wipe off the toothbrush and do the same thing, and wipe it down again. The second time around, the paper towels usually come off quite clean and there only remains a thin coating of oil on all the guns. Sometimes I go back and put a drop of oil on the high-wearing surfaces (slide rails, etc), but I haven't been able to determine any real difference in gun performance in adding the extra oil.

The mobile 1 also makes cleaning a breeze because any residue that sticks wipes off easily. For example, I can wipe off a blackened feed ramp with my finger.

The silicone spray had the same effect: I discovered after cleaning with even brake cleaner, the silicone would still find more grime to dissolve. So, I started just using the silicone to clean. However, it doesn't do as well as a lubricant as the Mobile 1, despite lubrication being its original purpose. But, I pay like $2 per can of silicone spray rather than $8-14 per can of gun-specific stuff, and it works just as well in my experience.
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Old 10-03-2011, 05:31 PM   #54
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I clean my guns when I think they need it, sometimes based on rounds used, sometimes upon inspection (dirty) and sometimes on function.

I still use old fashioned cleaning rods, brushes and swabs. For bore cleaners, Hoppies and other brands. I use CLP, BreakFree, Rem oil, etc. I also use aresol cleaners, hot water & soap, as I feel necessary. Trigger assemblies, like on Remingtons, respond well, for me, to 'washing' vice disassembly. Don't have a sonic sink. I'm a believer in leaving as little lub on a gun as I can... as needed. Prefer dry lubs on internal parts for most applications.

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Old 10-03-2011, 05:41 PM   #55
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I sure can not add to the cleaning that has not all ready been covered. If you are planing to use air guns I can add some tips....like when the accuracy starts to drop off or after a 1000 or so pellets I will clean the bore with only GOO-Gone which is safe for the rifling on an air gun. Never use hoppies or a wire brush or strong solvents. I use a small wood dowel to push the patches so I don't scratch any of the rifling. Don't put any lube into the piston chamber! The lube that was applied your first time such as in a tune is plenty. To much lube will cause detonation (dieseling) and burn up your seal.
Always clean an air gun when new so you remove the oil they use from the factory. Most of this oil is for shipping and is not a good oil for lube. I recomend checking on an air gun site such as the GTA to really understand the tricks an NO_NO's about air guns if you want good service from these guns.

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Old 10-03-2011, 05:42 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by Couch_Warrior View Post
I hesitate to clean the bore of my guns (as long as I haven't fired corrosive ammo) because the point of aim tends to change as the bore silts up again.

My big concerns in cleaning are preventing rust and keeping the action functioning reliably.

For the rust issue, I do a scrubbing with a solvent like Hoppes or WD-40 and a coarse rag, then a rub-down with a light oil and an old (but clean) diaper (because its soft).

The action I field-strip, brush with a toothbrush and a solvent, then spritz off with WD-40 ( catching the drips in a trash can), then add a few drops of machine oil and re-assemble.
yup. change the WD-40 and machine oil to Weaponshield, and that's my philosophy to a T.

ETA: oh, and thanks to someone above for reminding me to check out Gunzilla before making my next order for Weaponshield...

I would enjoy seeing a chart-based break-down of the responses, from (a) I do absolutely nothing until it fails, typically not until my Glock and AK are stuck in a salt-bog under a half-track, to (z) each night before I go to bed, I break down everything to component parts, soak in kerosene, re-lube lovingly, and re-assemble with torque wrenches and calipers.
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Old 10-03-2011, 05:42 PM   #57
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Mark, I am right there with you about cleaning firearms. Twenty eight years as a 11B grunt did it to me. However, too many dings and nicks have softened me up. I live on a farm and targets of opportunity have made me lazy with varmint rifles near doors and some windows. I keep them wiped down but do not touch the bores until 10/20 rounds downrange dependent on caliber and load. Barrel Burners get the most attention.

Firearms I seldom shoot get a patch of acid free grease in the bore.

Recreational shooting, M1, AR's, etc., usually runs several hundred rounds per session and get immediate cleaning usually when the bore is still warm. Mil Spec CLP is first choice to keep things humming.

I like to run a few patches soaked with Kroil to loosen things up. Later, I follow with Montana Extreme, Barnes CR-10, Sweet's 7.62 for heavy fouling. Shooter's Choice, Butche's Bore Bright or Hoppe's for the lighter stuff and I pamper Long Range "Varmint" rifles with J.B. Bore Paste and Kroil followed with J.B. Bore Brite.

Depending on their use I generally like to fire a fouling shot as prep for cold bore shots. I use dehumidifiers in home and dryer in storage. Peace, out.

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Old 10-03-2011, 05:43 PM   #58
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I generally clean either the night after a range session or within a couple of days of the session. When I do, it's a detailed disassembly and cleaning.

Since I started finishing the process by lubing them with Gunk Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant cleaning generally consists of brushing the parts with a toothbrush moistened with BreakFree, then wiping them off with a rag or paper towel. Bores through which jacketed bullets have been fired are brushed with a cleaning brush moistened with Butch's Bore Shine, patched dry, then filled with Gunslick foaming bore cleaner and allowed to soak while I'm cleaning the rest of the gun. I then pull a BoreSnake moistened with BreakFree through the barrel twice. Before reassembling, I soak everything down thoroughly with the Dry Lubricant mentioned above and allow it to evaporate. The Dry Lubricant seems to coat all the parts with a PTFE coating that not only lubricates but makes any future fouling more or less just wipe off.

For handguns through which I've been shooting lead bullets, if there's any fouling I'll wrap a bit of CopperBrite scouring pad around a bore brush and run it through until the fouling is gone, then treat as above.

Finally, for blued guns, I've started Turtle waxing the blued surfaces after cleaning just before putting the gun away. It seems to do an excellent job of rust prevention and protects longer than gun oil. I use the automotive paste wax that comes in a tin, not the liquid wax.

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Old 10-03-2011, 05:45 PM   #59
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Default gun cleaning

As a cast bullet shooter i clean rifles with eds red home made solvent about twice a year or if accuracy drops off. With modern primers i believe a gun can be cleaned to death. with proper loads there should be no leading. I have a ruger 06 that i shoot jacketed bullets in and after about 20 years it quit shooting. It took many patches of hoppe's to get it back to bare metal. the copper fouling was really built up. after cleaning to bare metal it shoots good groups again. I am a shooter not a cleaner. argie1891

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Old 10-03-2011, 05:50 PM   #60
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The purpose I use my firearms for is not sport but for protection. Thus, reliability is the factor that motivates me to perform a simple maintenance after each range practice session regardless of rounds expended. This is a basic inspection, field strip, cleaning as needed and light lubrication.

I perform a complete maintenance after expending five hundred rounds or following a range practice session in which more then five hundred rounds were shot. This procedure involves a detailed inspection of exterior surfaces, all components, springs, screws (and their replacement as necessary), lubrication, wiping of surfaces with a lint-free cleaning rag and a micro-fiber rag.

Brass wire and fiber-bristle brushes, non-metal reamers, patches, swabs and paper towels are used. I use snakes for rifle barrels as necessary.

My cleaning fluid of choice is Ed’s Red, grease to lubricate rifles and my Glock pistols. I use oil not grease for all of my other revolvers and semi-automatic pistols.

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