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Old 10-04-2011, 03:36 PM   #521
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Originally Posted by mark1945 View Post
Im retired military so all my guns are cleaned after firing.And a few times each year just to be sure.Its hard to break old habits a clean and properly lubed gun just works better and lasts longer.Several of mine Ive had for 45-50 years and never have a problem with them not functioning properly every time I pull the trigger. I use Hoppes 9 on all of them and Breakaway to lube them after cleaning .
I have to Diito I do the same.
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Old 10-04-2011, 03:44 PM   #522
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I clean each weapon shot at the range every time they are shot. The revolvers get the barrel, inside cylinder and area around forcing cone solvent then light oil, then wipe down of entire weapon with oil/treated cloth. Semi-autos get barrel, feed ramp and surrounding area with solvent then light oil and wipe down. I field strip and clean semi-autos about every six weeks if they are fired weekly, which is usual. I use Hoppes. I don't break down revolvers other than taking off the grips. That's why I have a great old friend who's a retired police Capt. and excellent gunsmith who shares my love for wheel guns.

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Old 10-04-2011, 03:51 PM   #523
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I agree with mark1945. As a former Marine I have vivid memories of hours spent at the armory cleaning weapons. When my unit arrived back to Camp Pendleton from Iraq, we spent close to four hours at the armory cleaning weapons - and this is while our families and friends were waiting to see us.
I will not do ANYTHING until my weapon is clean. With AR style rifles, I'll spent at least 1.5 hours cleaning. Then, the following day, I'll break it down and run a dry cloth over it and through it (to get the carbon I missed).

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Old 10-04-2011, 03:56 PM   #524
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For long term storage I now use Boeshield T-9. For cleaning, I use MPRo7 products, as I think it works better that Breakfree CLP. I was using Gunbutter for lube, which is pretty good. But, now I like SLIPSTREAM WEAPON OIL and Grease as I think it provides lower friction and is a little more tenacious. I have long guns but I am mainly a handgunner. I clean my carry weapon every or every-other time at the range. I usually shoot 100 to 150 rounds per session. My carry pistol (Sig 220P carry elite) seems fine with that regimen.

I do a complete field strip on my pistols. Including removing the grips. After wiping and soaking in Mpro for about 10-15 minutes I brush the parts, borebrush the barrel with Mpro bore cleaner and wipe off the excess and patch clean the bore. Then, I spray on a final coat of Mpro before blowing the receiver and lock mechanism out with compressed air. Finally, I apply SLIPSTREAM WEAPON OIL or grease, as appropriate, to the wear points and reassemble. I use Blacklighting brand chemically resistant disposable gloves.

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Old 10-04-2011, 04:02 PM   #525
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Default Firearms cleaning

For my parkerized 1911 believe it or not, I first strip it down to the frame, fill small bucket with hot water and "Dawn" dishwashing liquid. Tooth brush is used on all parts to scrub crud away. Hot water rinse. The metal will reach temperature of the hot water and evaporate. Lube with Zep 45 teflon spray and yer done. For blued weaponary, good ole kerosene to clean bore and all metal surfaces. Again lube with Zep 45. Clean after every range session. Oil every 3 months regardless.

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Old 10-04-2011, 04:13 PM   #526
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Default Military/Civilian

As an civilian I clean my weapons whenever I d**n well feel like it. But seriously folks, that always works out to at least a light cleaning after shooting and then periodic maintenance even if not handled.

I use Breakfree pretty much throughout. A wet patch through the barrel and then dry patches until the patch comes through clean. I do not use a bore brush unless heavy use. I use a toothbrush to apply Breakfree on all surfaces and then scrub clean and dry with whatever I need to use.

Sometimes I need to use some kind of tool to get into the chamber or ramp of my HK to get carbon. Usually the end of a cleaning rod with patch wrapped around it.

I leave barrel and chamber dry and all other metal surfaces with very thin layer of Breakfree.

As an infantryman I cleaned my weapon whenever we were in a patrol base and we were at fifty percent security. One clean patch through the barrel and light scrubbing of internal parts with toothbrush and Breakfree. As machine-gunner the maintenance was intensive as the M60 was a temperamental b***h. After getting back from the field I sprayed my M60 receiver down with carburetor cleaner and took it into the shower, steaming hot and gave it a long hosing down. As I left it in the hot water long enough to heat up the metal, the water evaporated and I never had a rust problem. This got the carbon out of the crevices and the M60 had plenty. My squad leader caught me doing this once and shook his head. Then he gave my gun an exhausting inspection and could not find fault so he just shook his head again. The gas piston and gas tube needed special attention as they were key to the operation of the weapon. Sometimes I used a green scrub pad on the piston. Then reinsert the piston and safety wire it back tight.

Climate conditions, desert or jungle, dictate alterations to whether parts stay lightly or heavily lubricated.

I have a new Glock and am tempted to not clean it much as an experiment because of a story my brother heard in Glock armorer school. He said the Jacksonville, FL Sheriff's armorer told him that they have a Glock which was confiscated and they let anyone take it to the range and shoot it with the agreement that it will not be cleaned. To date it has had over 100,000 rounds fired through it without cleaning and it fires without malfunction. Of-course my Glock is personal defense so I always give in and clean it.

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Old 10-04-2011, 04:36 PM   #527
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I think we have to categorize whether this is a pistol, a rifle, a truck gun, a hunting weapon, or something special (like an heirloom piece you are shooting only once) or competition model as options vary greatly.

But first we need to basically “define” what we are doing. You are trying to get “copper fouling” out of the barrel. Copper fouling is brought on by the Lands and Grooves of the barrel biting into the copper clad bullets and peeling some away during high pressure release. This is why you see a lot of people saying that they don’t really clean their rim fire (.22lr) weapons. They shoot lead bullets, so there isn’t copper fouling from the bullets to worry about.

The 2nd thing you are doing is getting all the excess powder from the “explosion” & any other debris out of the action, the chamber, the magazines and other nooks & crannies around the weapon.

When a live round goes off, you have a small contained explosion to propel your chosen bullet down the barrel, but because of the physics involved, you rarely get 100% burn on your powder, so you get remnants left behind. If gone unchecked your weapon will eventually build up small micro layers of this debris resulting in crappy performance and a weapon that looks like hell. No one wants to be that guy; you paid hard earned dollars for your weapon, take some pride and clean it up.

I’ll try to go category by category to tell you what we normally tell folks when they ask.

Pistol: For a pistol I think it is essential to break it down to its normal operating pieces (frame, slide, barrel, guide rod, recoil spring, magazine) right out of the box and wipe down with a clean rag or old T-shirt. This gets you familiar with the operation of the pistol, how it functions, and allows you to eliminate any excessive oils or grease that came from the factory. You have to remember, the folks that assembled it & shipped it didn’t know who it was going to, when they would buy it, or how long it would sit on the shelf. Wiping away that excess lube and gunk can save you ruining a leather holster or shirt later on. Then take a good quality gun oil that you like (Fluid Film – tested here!), wipe a thin coating on all moving parts, reassemble and you are good to go.

For cleaning purposes during a range day I don’t do anything during the shooting at the range unless I am running really dirty ammo (PMC range). Then about the most I will do is strip the weapon, wipe down all parts as indicated above & maybe pull a bore snake through.

After the range trip I try to always clean and strip my pistols right when I get home. If I were going to clean the pistol by hand I would put on a pair of surgical gloves (to keep human oil off the steel), strip the weapon and wipe down with a clean, dry cloth first. Next I would take an old toothbrush, dip it in the cleaning agent of choice (I like Hoppe’s but there are tons out there) and scrub all the flats & corners in & out of slide & frame. Let the parts soak for a couple of minutes, just in case. Take some cleaning patches, old T-shirt or whatever, and dry all the pieces that you just cleaned.

When it comes to the pistol barrel I hold it in my right hand (Southpaw) and I take the appropriate size bore brush (.44/.45 caliber for me), dip it in your bore cleaner (Hoppe’s/ Kleen Bore/etc.) and scrub the brush all the way through and all the way back a few times to where you can really see the gunk coming out. You might need to re-wet the brush and repeat the process several times. Once you can hold it up to the light, look through it and see clean cuts for the Lands and Grooves, you can patch it dry if you wish. Once I can run a patch through from chamber to crown without pulling any black stuff through, I coat a fresh patch with a very thin coat of protective oil, about 2 or 3 drops worth (again I like Fluid Film here) and brush the inside of the barrel with 1 or 2 passes. You just cleaned and brushed steel, so a little extra protection can’t hurt. You don’t want it sloshing, just a very micro-thin once over.

Next I throw away all the patches that have solvent on them, change gloves and begin to reassemble. I spray 4 or 5 large patches with Fluid Film & wipe down each and every piece as I being to reassemble the weapon. Try to get a micro coating all over the surfaces that you cleaned. Before final assembly I will shoot a very small bead of XF-7/ Tetra Gun/Shooter’s Choice Grease onto the rails of the frame where the slide rides. This is to keep the rails lubed and cut down on the amount of steel on steel; steel on aluminum; etc. friction that is caused by cycling the weapon.

Once reassembled I will manually cycle the weapon, check the safety on and off, dry fire the weapon 6 or 8 times, then wipe the whole outside down with a silicon cloth from Hoppe’s or Beeman. This last step isn’t needed if you wear surgical gloves, but I have always done it and my guns don’t rust, so I keep doing it.

more later.....
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Old 10-04-2011, 04:36 PM   #528
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I don't really have a schedule for cleaning. If I fire rounds through it, I clean it. Occasionally I'll let the .22 or the .30-.30 go 2 or 3 sessions before cleaning if I only shout a few rounds through them. I clean my pk380 after each use.

I have found that cleaning doesn't take long I can clean my pk380 in 15 - 20 minutes and I've never had any issue with performance out of it. Its always ready to throw rounds down range and doesn't FTF or FTE.

As far as what I use...I have a variety of supplies. I use mostly Hoppes solutions, but I do use Remington Dri-Lube and Reminton gun oil on my old Marlin .22 and my Marlin .30-.30 from time to time.

I have a variety of brushes that I use to clean, but my favorite is a soft bristle tooth brush.

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Old 10-04-2011, 04:46 PM   #529
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I thought I would chime in here. I'll start with the cleaners I use.
Hoppes #9 has been my stand-by for years. Aside from the smell when used in the living room while watching the tube and cleaning a gun, good stuff.

Got some Hoppes Elite and have it about used up, I'm not so sure about whether this stuff is a good solvent. It won't take the carbon off of the cylinder of my stainless S&W. Really like that it has no odor.

Big honking can of Gunscrubber. Excellent stuff for just hosing out an action. Nice to use on actions that are difficult to next to impossible to disassemble. Like my Nylon 66, lever guns, and with the extension on the nozzle it forces solvent into the gas tubes of my AR's.

For lubricant I am using a container of Browning gun oil that I have had for at least 10 years. I probably have another 10 years worth of oil left in it. A little goes a long way. Oil shouldn't be dripping from a gun when you are finished. A light oiling with a rag on the exterior should prevent rusting.

I use jags and patches as well as bore snakes in most of my calibers/guages. I consider a bore snake as good as patches. My 12 ga. snake is mostly white and by observing how clean it is along it's length I am confident that it is doing a very good job of removing, not just spreading fouling of the barrel. I know some have very low oppinions of the bore snakes, but I am very happy with mine.

AS far as frequency of cleaning, if I am sure I will go out again in at least a few weeks I may not do much more that wipe down the parts I've had my grubby hands on. I will pull everything out of the safe/hideyholes during the winter to make sure they are still lubricated and give them a rub with an oily rag to refresh the exposed surfaces. Care must be made to not saturate areas that interface with wood stocks. While a small amount of oil may be beneficial, repeated overdosing the area can cause soggy wood and ruin it.

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Old 10-04-2011, 04:49 PM   #530
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Criteria For Cleaning:
In general, I clean each rifle, pistol or shotgun after each time it is used (regardless of the number of rounds fired) except after I sight in for hunting season. For hunting season, I leave the bore fouled to ensure the first shot fired is true from a cold barrel. In the case of corrosive powders (ie muzzleloaders), I clean after each day of use. If I am working up a load, I clean before I start the next batch of ammo to ensure identical conditions of the bore.

Products Used:

I use Bore Tech, Inc. products (Welcome to Bore Tech Inc) almost exclusively for cleaning rifles, shotguns and handguns.
1. I start with their C4 Carbon Remover product first and run a couple of patches through the bore until the bore begins to show cleanliness, brush with a nylon brush 20 times and then, after waiting a few minutes, follow through with another patch of C4 Carbon Remover.
2. Next, I run a couple of patches of their Eliminator product through bore following same procedure in #1, brush with a nylon brush 20 times and then repeat process until no blue (copper removed) shows up.
3. I then run dry patches through the bore until it is dry and then make two passes with clean patches with RemOil.
4. If barrel appears to have heavy copper buildup, I follow step two above with Bore Tech’s Cu+2 Copper Remover. This stuff really cleans the bore and there is no ammonia.

Bore Tech also makes great products for Rim Fire and Shotgun and has a Moly Magic product.

For oiling and wipe-down, I use either RemOil for the exterior surfaces or FP-10.

For bolts or actions on rifles or handguns that move, I lubricate with FP-10 almost exclusively. On 1911s, I use Brian Enos Slide Glide product where the slide meets the rail on the frame and barrel bushing and lockup areas.

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