I always clean every firearm I own after shooting it. I generally like to give handguns, especially semi autos a "wet cleaning". I've found this works the best, is the fastest because it avoids disassembly, and is by far the easiest.
I take a clean coffee can and fill it about half full of clean Kerosene, or WD-40. Both are avaliable in gallon size cans at Home Depot or Lowe's. WD-40 smells better if you have a sensitive nose. Also pick up several of those cheap, fake Camel hair paint brushes from the paint department. I cut about half the bristles off which helps to make them slightly stiffer.
Field strip the gun down, and using the cut down paint brush liberally flood and flush the clean WD-40 or kerosene over all the parts. Barrel, slide, frame, etc. I just toss the entire magazine right into the can. Don't worry, the WD-40 or Kerosene won't hurt a thing, or damage the finish on your wood grips. You won't believe what comes out, and how dirty the WD-40 will get.
After I thoroughly clean each part I let it drain, then set it on a clean sheet of paper towel. When I'm finished I then give everything a good blast of compressed air. The compressed air will leave everything spotlessly clean and dry. If you don't have a air compressor, you can get a small, portable one from places like Harbor Freight very reasonably. They are invaluable for cleaning guns and gun parts.
After everything is clean and dry, I then oil everything with with Mobil 1 motor oil, and grease hard contact areas like bolt lugs, and slide rails with some Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease. After that I reassemble, wipe down with an oily cloth, and I'm done. Don't be afraid to but an entire slide or bolt from a bolt action rifle into a can of clean WD-40 either. It will clean it every bit as clean as if you took it apart without going through all of the hassle. This method works especially well on Ruger Mark II and Mark III .22 pistols. They can be a royal pain to disassemble and reassemble.
For cleaning barrels I use nothing but Bore Tech Eliminator.
Bore Tech Eliminator Bore Cleaning Solvent 4 oz Liquid - MidwayUSA
This stuff works much better than any other type of copper cleaner I've ever tried. It contains zero Ammonia, is completely odorless and bio degradable, and it will not hurt your weapon. It is perfect for cleaning semi autos like Springfield M1-A's, AR-15's, and Ruger Mini 14's because if any gets into the gas system it won't hurt a thing. It even has rust preventatives in it.
I go with a wet patch, a NYLON BRUSH,
then a dry patch until they come out clean with no green color on them. After that I run an oily patch through, and the barrel will be spotless.
All I have ever used to lubricate my firearms is Mobil 1 Motor Oil, ATF, (Automatic Transmission Fluid), and for very high pressure friction points like bolt lugs on bolt action rifles and hinge pins on O/U shotguns I will use a small amount of STP. I have never had a a gun rust or fail because of a lubrication issue in over 45 years.
Gun oils and greases are overpriced "snake oils" in fancy packaging, nothing more. Know what a Castrol Rep told me your getting when you spend $8.00 for a bottle of "Castrol / Hoppes Synthetic Gun Oil"? Castrol Syntec Motor Oil with an emulsifier added to it. You can buy it all day for around $4.50 @ quart, or pay $8.00 for 4 ounces of it in a fancy brushed Aluminum pump bottle. Same with a lot of these "Gun Greases".
Go into any auto parts store and you can buy a large tube of Moly Grease that will last the average shooter a lifetime for a couple of bucks. It's as good, or better than these miracle gun greases they sell for over $10.00 for a 1/4 ounce! An even better product is the Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease. It comes in a 1 pound tub for around $6.00. If you like the fancy hypo type applicator, you can get one at Walgreen's, Osco, CVS, Rite Aid, or most any other drug store for around .25 to .50 cents, and it's refillable too boot. Just ask the Pharmacist for one. Sometimes they have them hanging on "J-Hooks" in the aisle.
Mobil 1 can be tailored to your climate just as you would if you used it in your car. If you shoot or hunt in very frigid climate it comes in a 0W-20 grade that won't stiffen up in cold weather. Here in Arizona we don't get much cold weather, but in the Summer it can get blistering hot so I use the 10W-40 or the 20W-50 grade. It has a nice viscosity that won't run off metal and dry up in a few days like some of these water thin gun oils like "Rem-Oil" will. Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube has an even higher viscosity that works well on guns that tend to be run at higher temperatures like AR-15's and AK-47's. It comes in a 75W-140 Grade. ATF is a very clean non gumming lubricant that works well for lubricating semi autos and fast moving parts like slides and even trigger mechanisms. I'm not a believer of these so called "dry lubes". 47 years of shooting has taught me one very simple fact. If I can see oil on my firearms, I know I won't be seeing any rust.
All 3 of these products can be purchased at any auto parts store for around $20.00, and will last the average shooter for years, if not a lifetime. I won't overpay for these gun lubes that do nothing better except make you poorer. Bill T.