The FTF Glock Project Thread - Haters & FanBoys Can Suck It! - Page 3
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Old 09-07-2010, 01:35 AM   #21
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JD, go pick up a glock....any glock(I can't speak for the gen 4). Pull the slide back, lock it and then run your finger over the ejector. They are extremely sharp in comparison to any other firearm I've handled. I don't often go out seeking to stick my finger in a racked slide but in a classroom setting it happens and it is when I was introduced to the sharpness of glock ejectors. You could cut yourself on that ejector and working in metal fab/mechanics, the skin on my fingers is tough(I can see my finger touch something before I can feel it).
As I said, they work but wouldn't another 2 seconds in the mill be worth it?
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Old 09-07-2010, 01:57 AM   #22
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I have the grip to outfit the FTF GLOCK.
img00175-20100906-2141.jpg









I tried, I really did. I just couldn't stop myself.

I made it over 20 posts.




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Old 09-07-2010, 02:05 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IGETEVEN View Post
Hell just change the trigger to a short pull 1911 and fix the the grips to 1911 standards and I would not have a problem with them, even being poly.
STI has been building (depending on how you want to call it) an improved 1911 or the "perfect" glock for years
The 2011 has a steel frame and slide, 1911 trigger, controls, and ergonomics with a high capacity polymer grip.

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Old 09-07-2010, 03:45 AM   #24
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I just saw this thread, so please forgive my tardiness, and allow me to toss my hat in the ring.

First, some background on M14sRock.

I have used Glocks since the late '80's, and once I got used to them I grew to love them. I was converted from 1911's by a very persuasive guy who at the time was a Reserve Navy Seal (previously Active duty, and later Active Duty again), and his friend who was instrumental in getting the Glock allowed for sale in the USA. We are still good friends.

I've never had a Glock fail, and I've done all I could to make it happen.

BUT, there is not a single item that I use that is left "Box stock". My $11,000 ATV came off the trailer from the dealership and 30 minutes later I was painting all the black parts with AH2, Coyote. (My wife just shook her head). I bevel the bracelets on my expensive Swiss watches. I replace the crappy rubber handles on my knives with Micarta. Products are made to appeal to the "general population" at large, and the Glock is no more of an exception than a standard 1911 is. Nothing I own is safe, and ergonomics are always the focus.

For many years I supported myself by teaching shooting classes, doing disaster preparedness consulting and by working on Glocks and 1911's. The work that I performed on Glocks I called the "Glock Enhancement Package". There were 4 enhancement packages available, broken down and itemized below.

1.) External modifications intended to make the gun feel better.
2.) Internal modifications intended to (potentially) enhance functioning.
3.) A package combining packages 1, and 2.
4.) External metal work/dehorning.

I started by working on my own Glocks, but my friends talked me into doing them for them. Later I performed these enhancements on service members personal Glocks, many that were used in active duty overseas. Many, many, many of them from every branch of the military but the Coast Guard.

I performed these enhancements on many, many, many local Police Officers duty guns and personal guns. I used my Glocks in several Glock Armorers Courses and they always got noticed. I used my Glocks in Police matches and they got noticed. Word got out and I became a popular guy.

I performed these enhancements for customers of the store I later hung my shingle in.

And I performed these enhancements on all but three of my personal students Glocks (those who used Glocks, that is).

One of those 3 likes everything factory stock, with no mods.
Another wanted to do his own Glock, which he did (It was UGLY, but functional).
And the last one wants his done when he can afford to be without his Glock for a while. He fears being "Glockless", even though he has a Colt Govt and S&W 686.

Enough background, on to the work.

1.) The first thing is to round off the trigger guard. Why? Using the offhand finger on the front of the trigger guard to try to control the gun is weak. Fingers kept in the same plane are strong. This also includes removing the molding line.

2.) Next step is to relieve the area at the top of the front strap/back of trigger guard to allow for a higher grip with less rubbing on the middle finger. This is either right, or left handed. I did one "Ambi" and did not like it, though the user loved it.

3.) Next is beveling the inside of the trigger guard to allow the tip of the trigger finger access without rubbing.

4.) In conjunction with beveling the TG, relieving the strong side of the frame where the trigger finger rubs is done. It is subtle, but the finger does rub. (And, Yes, Dan, these allow the use of thin gloves.)

5.) Rounding/blending in or removing the checkering and finger grooves on the frontstrap. This includes taking off some of the front "corners" of the frontstrap, making for a rounder grip. My every day G17 has the frontstrap completely smooth (all checkering removed), though this is personal taste. This mod is compliments of my ex wife who hated the checkering and could run a Glock like a Mini Gun.

6.) Bevel the front and rear of the magwell to eliminate the propensity of the rim of the first round in the magazine from hanging up. I also use the Glock Plug in my Glocks to help create a better wall. The plug also allows storage of a spare extractor, trigger return spring, firing pin, and trigger pin. Those are the only parts you hear about that break on Glocks and all can be stored in the grip.

7.) Round off the tang area of the backstrap. This allows a "rounder" grip which most find more comfortable.

8.) Relieve/dish the area around the mag release button to allow for an easier push.

9.) Round off the corners of the mag release button.

10.) I used to cut a notch out of the weak side bottom of the grip, near the magwell (like you see on HK USP's today). This was done way back when the Glock mags were only 3/4 steel lined, and swelled up when full. The cutout allowed for an ergonomic "grab from the side" method of pulling out the mag. With the all steel lined mags this is no longer necessary, though I sometimes do it by request for those who still want the "Navy Seal" cutout.

11.) Remove the razor sharp lip at the bottom of the frontstrap.

12.) Finally, the frame is abrasive blasted with aluminum oxide. This takes off the nasty, shiny finish on the polymer, and blends in the areas that have been relieved/removed. I will also paint the frame with Aluma Hyde 2 for those who don't like black. All of mine are painted.

Those are the Enhancements that are done externally to the frame. Now, on to the internals.

1.) All bearing surfaces of the trigger bar, firing pin tail, firing pin safety plunger (and corresponding hole in the slide) and connector are smoothed out and polished. The little ridges are stoned away and mirror polished. This greatly improves the factory trigger.

2.) The frame rails have the corners and edges trued if they are rubbing on the slide rails.

3.) Slide work. The slide rails are polished. The "bushing" hole is polished. The connector reset ledge is polished. The firing pin safety plunger hole is polished. The "hood" area of the inside of the slide is polished, along with the sides of the inside of the slide.

4.) Dehorning of the slide (if requested) requires slide refinishing which I do with Brownells Gun Kote. The sharp edges at the front and rear area of the ejection port are radiused so that the off hand is not torn up during failure drills. The front of the slide is relieved on the sides (like the slide on the G26/27/36) if desired.

5.) The barrel gets the ramp polished (not needed) and the outside polished. The older Glock barrels are much smoother than the newer ones.

6.) Heinie Slant Pros finish off the package (and are now available with Melonite finish for corrosion proofness).

7.) Outside of the recoil spring is polished to eliminate the "squeek" when it rubs on the bottom of the barrel.

I performed these Enhancements for a living, for over 20 years. Now I do them on my own guns, my friends guns and my old customers guns. Each gun took two full days to complete, and all work is done by hand or with hand tools. I just don't have the time to do them anymore.

If anyone wants pictures, I will take some and post them.

Did anyone actually read this ramble, too?
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Old 09-07-2010, 08:30 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M14sRock View Post
If anyone wants pictures, I will take some and post them.

Did anyone actually read this ramble, too?
I, for one would like to see pics. Your "mods" address the complaints I have with Glocks.

Manufacturers are listening to what "mods" people are having done to their firearms and incorporating the "mods" in later models. A good example would be the Colt M1911a1 line. They have better sights now than they had 50 years ago on base models.

And, yes, I read your ramble. I like it.
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Old 09-07-2010, 08:59 AM   #26
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What about the slide stop lever? It's not the most user friendly one you come across.
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Old 09-07-2010, 02:01 PM   #27
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Wow M14's! That's impressive!

I would love to see pictures.

How do you think glocks compare to springfield xd's out of the box?
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Old 09-07-2010, 02:46 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danf_fl View Post
I, for one would like to see pics. Your "mods" address the complaints I have with Glocks.

Manufacturers are listening to what "mods" people are having done to their firearms and incorporating the "mods" in later models. A good example would be the Colt M1911a1 line. They have better sights now than they had 50 years ago on base models.

And, yes, I read your ramble. I like it.
About 15 years ago I had a meeting with Gaston Glock to discuss an idea for a "Glock Custom Shop". The reps were all for it and loved my work (some had their guns done already), but GG just looked at me nodding. Then he indicated that it would complicate the selection. Oh well, I tried.

Thanks for reading, Dan. I'll take some pics and get them posted, but it will be this evening.
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Old 09-07-2010, 02:49 PM   #29
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Quote:
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What about the slide stop lever? It's not the most user friendly one you come across.
I believe the slide stop should only be used to manually lock the slide open, so the original Glock slide stop is truly "perfect" for my application.

But the new Glocks come with an extended slide stop that would probably address your concern. They work very well.
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Old 09-07-2010, 03:09 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojubrian View Post
Wow M14's! That's impressive!

I would love to see pictures.

How do you think glocks compare to springfield xd's out of the box?
They are both excellent. I prefer Glocks, but part of that is muscle memory.

The Xd's benefit greatly from the after market trigger kit (I forget the company who makes the good one...) because they have long trigger reset (until upgraded). I saw a few early Xd's break the locking block, which soured me to them early on. That takes an Xd out of play, while a Glock with a broken block will keep running (the Glock locking block is kind of locked in place). But it has been a long time since I saw a cracked Xd block.

Glocks have very short trigger reset, which is critical. It is the one glaring flaw (in my opinion) of the Browning Hi Power.

But the crisp Xd trigger is nice, and made nicer by the above mentioned after market trigger kit. One of my students has an Xd9 and I shot it after class once at 50 yards. Blew me away. It shot almost as well as my STI 9mm.

I've never seen a Glock that needed to be broken in out of the box, though.

And I think every gun should be either tenifered, or melonited. Glocks are tenifered.

I think the Xd was the perfect pistol for old school traditionalists who were curious about a polymer framed pistol.

An old student of mine (the one who did his own Glock enhancement, and now an instructor, too) has taken some very intense classes in the last couple of years. He is fairly well hooked in with some ex-military trainers, and their circles. One class he took was in pouring rain, on a dirt range. He said the mud and slime was on everything.

He uses Glocks (9 & .40), 1911's (.45) and Xd's (9) and an XDM (.40).

During this particular class he told me every other shooter had their pistol go down so often that he ended up breaking out his spare Glocks to loan out (he has a bunch). He said the XDM's went first (!), followed by the tight, high end 1911's, and that only the standard Xd's and Glocks never stopped. He was excited to tell me this when it happened.

We don't have XDM's in CA so I have not played with one, yet.
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