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Old 04-09-2011, 01:20 AM   #11
d-r
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Well, if it is a carbon frame, I have always been partial to hot rust blueing. Essentially, get some Birchwood Casey hot rust blue solution, completely strip the frame (including bushings), give it a good degrease and blast, and you are ready to start.

Apply the compound evenly (I use a rag), and once covered, let it sit out overnight in at least 70 degree temps. Humidity helps. Don't be alarmed, next morning when you see it completely rusted. This is normal, and desireable. Using some moist scotch brite, *gently* go over the whole thing- the goal is to break a little of the surface loose, not remove it. Then, after boiling up a pot of water big enough to dunk the frame in, dunk it. I like to use distilled water so there are no extra salts in there. The frame should go from red to black. You can then apply a second, third, fourth or n+1 layer, using the same method. After the last boil, seal the finish with wax or oil. Turns out really nice, and is quite durable, unlike conventional blue. Hope this helps!

D-R

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Old 04-09-2011, 04:50 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d-r View Post
Well, if it is a carbon frame, I have always been partial to hot rust blueing. Essentially, get some Birchwood Casey hot rust blue solution, completely strip the frame (including bushings), give it a good degrease and blast, and you are ready to start.

Apply the compound evenly (I use a rag), and once covered, let it sit out overnight in at least 70 degree temps. Humidity helps. Don't be alarmed, next morning when you see it completely rusted. This is normal, and desireable. Using some moist scotch brite, *gently* go over the whole thing- the goal is to break a little of the surface loose, not remove it. Then, after boiling up a pot of water big enough to dunk the frame in, dunk it. I like to use distilled water so there are no extra salts in there. The frame should go from red to black. You can then apply a second, third, fourth or n+1 layer, using the same method. After the last boil, seal the finish with wax or oil. Turns out really nice, and is quite durable, unlike conventional blue. Hope this helps!

D-R
Cool beans. But I gotta find something to blue now.
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Old 04-22-2011, 02:24 PM   #13
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I have used auto engine paint with good results.
It is a very tough durable heat & chemical resistant finish.
On a test piece I scrubed it with a steel wool pad soaked with acetone & the finish stayed put.
Here is my AMD65 with this finish on it.

It is called VHT Engine Enamel it comes in many colors, flats to glosses.
VHT Engine Enamel™

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Old 05-31-2011, 02:26 PM   #14
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I would not encourage home annodizing... Anno is not the most durable finish and the process requires a lot of prep and the job itself is not super easy... I have never annod a gun but in mmy paintball days I have ruined many an anno job...

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Old 10-25-2011, 03:50 PM   #15
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Default No Problems with Duracoat

I have done a bunch of work with duracoat. I have heard both great and horrible things about it. The key is in the prep work. I took two AR Mags and painted both of them in MARPAT Camo. Mag 1 I sandblasted, and then cleaned with Acetone. Mag 2 I cleaned with Acetone. Mag 1 turned out great and a cant get the stuff off. Mag 2's coating was peeling off with my stencils. (Fail) I cant speak about the DIY kits they sell as I use a complete airbursh setup. Feel free to email me with any questions. Glad to help.

Montaktical MTAK Duracoat

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Old 12-24-2011, 01:36 PM   #16
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I have done quite a few guns for a buddy of mine with a product from Dura-Cote thats called "Dura-Heat"

We took the gun apart and blasted it, cleaned it with a strong soap and water then sprayed two coats of D/Heat.
This is a great product! The guns were sprayed about three years ago and has had no problems with the finish. He shoots the hell out of them too....

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