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NGIB · 02-15-2011, 01:19 PM

I've seen some of the work done by folks here so I'm wondering about the path I should take. I may be coming into an alloy framed Kimber that is "finish challenged" to say the least. Now I could pack it up and send it to CCR; however, is there a DIY finish that's as tough & durable?

I've heard that Gunkote is good but I really have zero experience in this area. Any tips from y'all is appreciated - especially in how much prep work is required. Do I need to strip the slide & frame to bare metal or beadblast? Can the same finish be used on the alloy frame and steel slide?

Squirrel_Slayer · 02-15-2011, 03:37 PM

Have you considered checking out the Durakoat website? I don't have any answers to your specific questions in regards prep, other than I am alost positive you are not going to have to strip off the old finish before you put on the new one. My father has applied some of the Durakoat to a couple of his AR's and claims it is simple and so far it has been tough as nails.

lonyaeger · 02-15-2011, 04:23 PM

I've done a couple DuraCoat jobs, one on my AR, on all the metal parts. The finish has not been affected at all by the barrel heating up, which was my first concern.

I bought the little kits that come with a sprayer and a little c02 bottle. They suck. If you have a compressor, Dave, that would be the way to go.

Other than the gas issue, I'm really happy with the DuraCoat products. But as far as friction parts go, like slide on frame in a pistol, I can't speak to that.

**CA357** · 02-15-2011, 06:49 PM

I had a revolver done in Duracoat and it didn't hold up. The finish was done by a friend in the autobody business and he prepped it well. I was surprised it didn't last.

I've used Brownell's Aluma Hyde II several times and have been happy with it.

If you want to keep the cost down, CCR is doing a "Parkerize Plus" finish that looks pretty good. They are good folks and they do outstanding work.

M14sRock · 02-24-2011, 02:28 AM

I have not used Duracoat, but hear good things.

I have used the various KG Products coatings, and they are great. They make the GunKote for Brownells. I have a lot of experience with the AH2, GunKote, and Teflon from Brownells. I've probably done 200 guns, so far.

Blasting the alloy frame will remove the surface hard coat anodizing. I would just strip it down, de-grease it and go with AH2. It will wear off from the rails, but you won't see it.

Baking the alloy at 300f for an hour might be a bit much, but you could do the Gun Kote. It wears very well. And it is ready to use within a few minutes of coming out of the oven.

AH2 needs a long time to cure. A couple of days before you handle it. A couple of weeks before you use it. Several months before it turns to armor plate.

**spittinfire** · 02-24-2011, 03:02 AM

I'm being tempted by home anadizing.....if I decide to go thru with it I'll post pics.

M14sRock · 02-25-2011, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spittinfire

I'm being tempted by home anadizing.....if I decide to go thru with it I'll post pics.

Cool. How do you do home anodizing?

silentghost · 02-25-2011, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NGIB

I may be coming into an alloy framed Kimber that is "finish challenged" to say the least.

Hey!!! If you hurt her feelings she won't love you anymore!!!!

NGIB · 02-26-2011, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silentghost

Hey!!! If you hurt her feelings she won't love you anymore!!!!

It has character!

silentghost · 02-26-2011, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NGIB

It has character!

And it served me well! Maybe we can fool around with the Para I have, or that other mil spec of yours and then we can start refinishing guns in this area

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