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Old 04-10-2014, 01:12 AM   #61
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Very nice. Impressive work. You will have a heck of a gun there when you are done.
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Old 04-10-2014, 01:27 AM   #62
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I think its pretty close to traded already. If not, I'll put it up on the local boards for a 55 to 79 chevy truck for a bit then off to gunbroker. We'll see. It'll prolly be a week or three yet till its done. Not quit humid enough yet ta use my garage as the damp box fer rust bluing.
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Old 04-10-2014, 10:55 PM   #63
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95%. Time to find the time, place and humidity for final polish and blue.

Tonight I tweaked the ejector system. I don't have suitable spring stock on hand but I'm comfortable with the ruger spring now that its shortened and the cut end is slightly crimped and placed at the head of the ejector rod....this keeps the cut tail from slightly binding in the hole in the back of the ejector rod frame loop when the spring is fully compressed. Full compression gives me plenty of case to pluck out and I am anxious to try it on test fire. Short of finding a spring with fewer coils per inch and not too much spring rate, I think this will be as good as it gets. Its all I can do not to press the new front sight in and head to the range....but all in good time I think.

For now, tryin to get most of the occasional stickeyness out of the assembly. For starters, a final shaping of the once half round rod to a bit smaller in diameter, more triangularish and a 120g polish. And some rounding of the edges of the brass button with a nice polish on the buffing wheel with red rouge for a smooth shine, no more sanding marks. (Note the razor sharp milled slot in the ejector rod housing....I'll be tackelin that next, its also part of the roughness in the system.)



With the thin safe sided file and some 220g paper I worked on the inner and outer cut edges of that slot....beveling off the saw tooth edge. Its about 90% now and the rod and button slides back and forth pretty nicely. Once I break it down for bluing, I'll finish polishing that slot smooth, get the final milling marks off the edges for some better function all around.

And the final increase in smoothness, specially at the bottom of the stroke, was flippin the spring around so the factory flat end (uncut end) was bottomed in the loop of the frame. I slightly crimped the cut end so it would grab onto the ejector rod, up at the full diameter portion just behind the brass button. Its workin pretty slick front to back and then returning front all by itself when it should. I'm pretty happy at this point.

Note the brass button.....the beveled edges are all in. The initial bevels were sanded in with a small drum on the drill press, a kiss and a steady hand to make a slight bevel, sorta like the bevel we put on the outer circumference of the cut off barrel, but by hand and eye, no fancy tools. After that, a cotton wheel at 3000 rpm, some red rouge and a gentle hand to polish out all the tool marks and blend those cut bevels into soft and smooth flowing bends and curves.

Oh yeah, that stud in the barrel with the threaded nut to hold on the ejector rod housing? Just the berries! I like it lots better than a screw that goes in and outta the barrel every time ya take off the rod housing. I recon that stud'll get a droppa loktite to secure it in place for the long haul....even red loktite is fine cause when ya want it out, just heat it to ouch temperature with a soldering iron and it'll unscrew jes dandy but it won't come out till then with either red or blue sauce in the threads.



That's it, Ol Porkums is lookin pretty trim these days. Guess I'll haveta see, if the humidities good, maybe strike and start rust bluing the cylinder and small parts this weekend.

Woo Hoo! Ruger soup comin up!

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Old 04-12-2014, 12:22 PM   #64
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Experimenting with the try sight....just in case the final brass beaded sight needs to be reshaped before installation.

Factory square shape.



Rounded front for a more traditional sail shape.



S shape to mimic the shape of the left and right sides of the sight.

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Old 04-17-2014, 01:41 PM   #65
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Before heading off to bluing, and while waiting for temps and humidity for rust bluing to level off a bit, I am toying with the idea of modding up the rounded gate to Flat Loading Gate, ala the early Single Six Revolvers.

Net photo lifted and posted below....and rounded/delux gate for comparison....

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Last edited by Sharps40; 04-17-2014 at 02:48 PM.
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Old 04-18-2014, 07:08 PM   #66
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nice, I'll be keeping an eye on this thread for sure
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Old 04-25-2014, 11:32 PM   #67
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I like the flatgate look of the single six. I spent a lot of time carving up masking tape shapes on the gate looking for something I liked better than flat.....it wasn't happenin for me. But I hear ya and after some research, seems the primary complaint is not enough thumb grab to open it easy and quickly. So.......I still want a flat gate, but it needs a thumb groove behind it. I decided on a semi flat gate....a bit thicker than ruger used to put in and add in a good thumb groove to flick it right and down. Combined with the groove in the frame it feels pretty good....guides the thumb into place and clicksnap its open.

First, a rough sail shape for the final sight that will go on the front of the barrel. A brass bead for durability. And, some scribe lines on the face of the loading gate to ensure even file work at the end.



I filed first down to the outer line only....I need to visualize the thinner and flatter gate but leave enough meat to center and file in the thumb groove out back. The extra lines on front help me sight in the start point for the thumb groove and keep it running evenly left, right and up, down.



Once the initial thumb groove is filed in, I filed down to line number two and off to the drill press with the small 80 and 120g sanding drums....and some water to dip the part...and my fingers in! Don't worry, ya can't hold it long enough to get it hot enough to draw the temper. But, its not hard metal afterall but its good metal and takes a lovely even finish at 120g.



At this point, I've deepend the thumb groove quite a bit and gone back to the flat face to file down to line number 3. In addition, I've hand filed a slight chamfer between lines three and four. Not much, I don't want to have the gate edges too far under the mating edges of the frame but I do want a chamfered edge. It'll make the crescent moon shape on the flat face smaller and better looking.....we'll see that in another photo. But for now, the rough in chamfer followed by a kiss on a loose 220g belt to smooth it up and blend the chamfer out just past line number four.



The chamfer, blended, after a kiss on that well worn and durn near worn out 220 belt.



And here, the new undercut for the tip of the thumb and the smaller sized crescent flat facing the shooter.

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Old 04-26-2014, 12:01 AM   #68
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A few pics in place....after I stopped playin with it....open, close, open, close, open, close....



The shooters eye view....



Thumbed open....



The unloading view....Now that the big blob of metal behind the loading gate is pared inward or off, I think it'll give some more knuckle room to grab onto them cases that just start out of the chamber and get em pulled out and ready for fresh loads....



I didn't press the final shaped front sight home....still gotta blue it and the slot but from a few feet back the photo starts to give an idea of the look.....gotta use yer imagination and see the rear sight wings out back for balance......



Getting close now....almost time to blue!
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:05 PM   #69
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Loading gate, before and after.

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Old 05-16-2014, 07:03 PM   #70
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Time to see if Ruger steel is easy to rust....blue that is....rust blue. Folks say its hard to get it other than purple....I say that's cause they hot tank blue it too hot!

With luck, its less hard to rust blue than a 94 Winchester receiver, which I must say, takes a bit of work but in the end, rusts/blues pretty quickly using this old school method.

First step, clean up all the small parts and the cylinder. Get the old blue off with a simple wire brush in a drill press at 3000 rpm....a nice matted finish and I find a few small pits in the cylinder.....no worries, they weren't really visible before and they should hide just as well when I'm done. In the end, they are deeper than I want to polish out....leaving either divots or making the cylinder a bit smaller. The matt wire brush finish and kissing the cylinder with 120 and 220 (since large surfaces are difficult to wire brush finish evenly, but the 120/220 kiss will matt it nicely and have all the lines going round and round the cylinder....I finished the lines in the flutes front to back).

For this batch, only the cylinder is final finished with sandpaper, all the rest of the small parts are kissed matt with the wire brush. Here they are, degreased and awaiting the first very wet coat of Pilkingtons and the first 1 hour sit (second coat is nearly dry and a 3 hour sit, then the first boil tonight!)



10 minutes into the first wet coat, the steel is already beginning to color and develop a light bloom of rust. This bodes good tidings for the job. Lots of contours to deal with and depending on how these parts color up over the next days will dictate whether I rust blue the entire gun or try out a home hot tank blue instead. I am not looking forward to carding and dealing with all those curves, nooks and crannies....revolvers are hard to rust blue!



The flat gate is a bit different alloy, not hard but seems to puddle the solution. It may need a more matted finish than wire brush, it may just need The Special-High-Intensity-Treatment to get it to start a nice bloom of rust for blackening....much like Win 94 receivers and Marlin Magazine Tubes.



That'll be neat looking, a greyblack dot were the steel of the ejector rod comes thru the brass ejector button....



One hour from now, the second coat and then three hours later, first boil. Should be able to boil again twice tomorrow before I go visit a buddy and maybe up to 2 or three more times Sunday. With luck and good Southern Humidity, my Garage-Come-DampBox will do its usual good job and I'll know by Sun/Mon whether to continue the frame and barrel for rust bluing or start some experimentation on scraps of gun steel via drain cleaner caustic/hot blue....(yep, drain cleaner, that's what yer factory gun and custom gunsmith hot blue gun is blued with....really expensive batches of what is pretty much strong household drain cleaner)
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