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Old 02-02-2010, 02:15 AM   #1
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Default 260 Remington model 700 target project

A while back i bought a used rem 700 in .308 it shot ok but i was looking for something more and i have been wanting to have a custom target gun built for a while now. Ive done quite a bit of research and thought about it day and night for almost a year now, and last thursday i finally decided to make the leap.

I took my rifle to a guy in Cayuga IN who shoots bench rest and builds rifles for just about everything else. I persuaded him to strip my rifle down to the action and build it up from there.

He is going to put a 26-27 inch LIJA 6.5 mm 1 in 8 twist match barrel with a break (Break the same diameter as the crown). 1.250 tapering to .900-.950 He is also chambering the barrel (eating the cost of the reamer) and blueprinting my action. He is using an oversized recoil lug and pinning it in place. Since it is not a bench rest rifle, and more of a "tatical" piece i opted for him working the factory trigger down to about 2.5 lbs. Since the stock that was on the rifle was an older HS precision fiberglass stock with aluminum bedding block i am having him bed the action into it.

He said that this would cost me around $1,300 unless he ran into somthing major which he said seemed unlikely. ETA......it depends if i opt for barrel fluting most likely the first of April....no fluting early March. So do you think its worth the wait and the extra hundred bucks?

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Old 02-02-2010, 02:24 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Hot Sauce NARC View Post
A while back i bought a used rem 700 in .308 it shot ok but i was looking for something more and i have been wanting to have a custom target gun built for a while now. Ive done quite a bit of research and thought about it day and night for almost a year now, and last thursday i finally decided to make the leap.

I took my rifle to a guy in Cayuga IN who shoots bench rest and builds rifles for just about everything else. I persuaded him to strip my rifle down to the action and build it up from there.

He is going to put a 26-27 inch LIJA 6.5 mm 1 in 8 twist match barrel with a break (Break the same diameter as the crown). 1.250 tapering to .900-.950 He is also chambering the barrel (eating the cost of the reamer) and blueprinting my action. He is using an oversized recoil lug and pinning it in place. Since it is not a bench rest rifle, and more of a "tatical" piece i opted for him working the factory trigger down to about 2.5 lbs. Since the stock that was on the rifle was an older HS precision fiberglass stock with aluminum bedding block i am having him bed the action into it.

He said that this would cost me around $1,300 unless he ran into somthing major which he said seemed unlikely. ETA......it depends if i opt for barrel fluting most likely the first of April....no fluting early March. So do you think its worth the wait and the extra hundred bucks?
Go for it, and keep us in the loop.

This is the second 260 Rem reference mentioned today!

I may look into this round!
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Old 07-16-2010, 06:53 PM   #3
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Default gun is done

Went and picked it up last night

I got a 2 hour training lecture on cleaning equipment and care lol

The smith and his assistant shot it on the 14th of july and with their pet load it shot a .200 5 shot group at 100 yards. Needless to say they revealed to me the recipe.

Its not real pretty but if it continues to shoot like that ill take it.

img_4068.jpg   img_4071.jpg   img_4072.jpg   img_4074.jpg   img_4075.jpg  

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Old 07-17-2010, 04:54 PM   #4
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Default A little more info

The base is a 20 MOA Leupold, i didnt even think i needed it but oh well he put it on so its staying.

Trigger is really nice at about 2.5 lbs

I don't know who makes the bolt knob. I think it was one the smith just had sitting around, i do like the feel of it though.

And yes i will be changing out the bi pod for a shorter one when i get around to it.

I do like the look of the stainless, but i am considering painting it. What do you guys think?

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Old 07-17-2010, 05:59 PM   #5
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A while back i bought a used rem 700 in .308 it shot ok but i was looking for something more and i have been wanting to have a custom target gun built for a while now. Ive done quite a bit of research and thought about it day and night for almost a year now, and last thursday i finally decided to make the leap.

I took my rifle to a guy in Cayuga IN who shoots bench rest and builds rifles for just about everything else. I persuaded him to strip my rifle down to the action and build it up from there.

He is going to put a 26-27 inch LIJA 6.5 mm 1 in 8 twist match barrel with a break (Break the same diameter as the crown). 1.250 tapering to .900-.950 He is also chambering the barrel (eating the cost of the reamer) and blueprinting my action. He is using an oversized recoil lug and pinning it in place. Since it is not a bench rest rifle, and more of a "tatical" piece i opted for him working the factory trigger down to about 2.5 lbs. Since the stock that was on the rifle was an older HS precision fiberglass stock with aluminum bedding block i am having him bed the action into it.

He said that this would cost me around $1,300 unless he ran into somthing major which he said seemed unlikely. ETA......it depends if i opt for barrel fluting most likely the first of April....no fluting early March. So do you think its worth the wait and the extra hundred bucks?
The only thing I realize now when it comes to barrel fluting is the saving of weight, which for my build was worth it. It shaved off about 1/2 lb. Of course I'm running a Krieger #9 Heavy Target Barrel, about the diameter of a car axel, and the mass alone of this barrel makes it nearly impossible to get hot. Fluting is supposed to increase sruface area and aid in blowing off heat. I somewhat question that when it comes to the diameter of this barrel. You do loose some "ridigity" of the barrel when fluting also, as I was told by Krieger.

I'm noticing the pics of your muzzle brake and see that it's untimed. (Holes all around the diameter of the brake) Very similar to the brake that I first had on my target build. If it works out like my experience, when in prone position, that brake most likely will throw grass, dirt, gravel, and other such nasties into your face and lens of your scope. Not to mention other shooters or spotter either side of you as well as behind you. It also made the barrel jump every shot so that I had to reposition rifle every time I squeezed one off. Very time consuming as well as frustrating in a timed event. I changed mine out for a timed brake and the problem was cured. Actually, I noticed less rise and felt recoil with the timed brake over the untimed brake.

Alot of guys in the club that I shoot with have built 260's from their 308's and they shoot extremely well, even out to a 1000 yards. Some use brakes and some don't on these rigs.They call it "Going to the Dark Side". Probably because this round works so well. I myself am considering the 260 for my next build, however, have been torn between the 260 and 6.5X47 Lapua as of late.

Heres a pic of the timed brake on my 300 target rifle.

new-muzzle-brake-003.jpg
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Old 07-17-2010, 06:32 PM   #6
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Ive never shot a rifle with a break before so ill shoot it for a while and if it becomes unpleasant or annoying ill have it changed out for a timed one.

Ive heard tell that 6.5X47 is everything .260 is without brass issues. if lapua made 260 brass that would be a different story. For this rifle i plan on buying lapua .243 win brass and necking it up in a Sinclair neck expander, shouldn't be too hard but its just another time consuming step.

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Old 07-18-2010, 03:57 AM   #7
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Ive never shot a rifle with a break before so ill shoot it for a while and if it becomes unpleasant or annoying ill have it changed out for a timed one.

Ive heard tell that 6.5X47 is everything .260 is without brass issues. if lapua made 260 brass that would be a different story. For this rifle i plan on buying lapua .243 win brass and necking it up in a Sinclair neck expander, shouldn't be too hard but its just another time consuming step.
That untimed brake will work fine off a bench, kneeling, sitting, and freehand. It'll also work if your in prone position with muzzle over something like concrete, however, the rifle will jump somewhat (too much for what we are trying to do) due to the exiting gasses downward from the brake.

And yep, necking up that 243 Win. lapua brass is the way to go. Thats what alot of the guys here are doing.

Also, will you be annealing your brass necks? And, after how many resizeings?

Just curious, as I've just annealed some of my brass on it's fourth reload.
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Old 07-18-2010, 04:04 AM   #8
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Congratulations. It sure sounds like a shooter. I hope you are happy with its performance. Please keep us updated.

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Old 07-18-2010, 04:18 PM   #9
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Have you though about coming down from 308 to 260. This will make the necks slightly thicker but also allow you to ream and turn them so that you get better tension on the necks.

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Old 07-18-2010, 05:07 PM   #10
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MrM14: annealing brass is not something i have tried yet. Once i get this rifle up and running ill do some research and find a consensus as to when i should anneal.

Tango: Yes i did consider necking down but that's more steps and more equipment than i wanted to get into at first, after i get a few hundred rounds downrange i may consider it. Im just trying to keep my start up cost on this rifle as low as i can without sacrificing too much accuracy.

The SERIOUS benchrest guys who built this rifle use the .243 lapua necked up, and using a load made with that brass this rifle shot a .200 5 shot group at 100 yards so well see how it goes.

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