What epoxy or polymer filler matl to use? - Page 2
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:03 PM   #11
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Why not just drill through and use machine screws and nuts on the inside of the forearm?
That thought had occurred to me and I decided since I would be cutting (drilling) through the main longitudinal support rib in the stock’s fore arm, it might weaken too much. I haven’t put the calipers to it, but the polymer thickness of the fore arm in that area appears to be about 3/32” (more than a sixteenth but less than an eighth inch). Maybe that would hold up okay for bipod use? I was thinking if I reinforced the rib (which would actually be drilled through in two locations), it would make that part of the fore arm more stiff and I’d see no negative effect from having done so (not to mention the area being more “beefed up” to support the bipod).

Renegade44, I tried my hand at plastic welding exactly one time and that was almost thirty years ago. So yes, I’ve “technically” done it but don’t have access to such a welder now (AND probably lack the necessary skill level). As I recall, I did okay with it and it was fun to do but I was hoping I could just mix up a couple of chemicals, fill in the little chambers, let cure and be done with it.

I appreciate the JB Weld recommendations - I’m familiar with that. Left to my own devices, that’s pretty much what I was “defaulting” towards. I’m thinking the compounds used for glass bedding would probably be too brittle to drill through (and I suspect it may not be as strong as JB Weld). But I wanted to see if anyone had something new or different that might do an even better job.
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:02 PM   #12
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Another stronger possibility is cut out some of the support ribs. Lay a piece of steel in the forearm and cover under and on top of steel with the epoxy, Then drill and tap the holes thru the plastic and metal.

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Old 01-21-2013, 10:53 PM   #13
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I would ask "what will you be using the gun for"? The conditions you will be using it in can influence how you handle the situation. Boyds makes great wood stocks but extra care may be needed in damp environments. Synthetic stocks are better there. I used JB weld in my Mosin Nagant stock to bed and reinforce some spots.
laminate stocks are more resistant to water and moisture than typical wood stocks, hence the reason i mentioned the Boyd's laminated stock. plus they can be sealed as well which will make them just as good as a synthetic stock.
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:46 AM   #14
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Sincerely: thanks guys for the suggestions!

axxe55, this little 22 only cost me brand new, $210 (delivered & FFL) so I'm not inclined to spend another hundred bucks (once shipping or tax is included) on it. Please take no offense at this because otherwise, it's not a bad idea. Along this same "replacing the stock" thought was my original stubbornness and mindset of wanting to make the cheap Marlin polymer stock work! In my opinion, Marlin already screwed up by molding in such an unconventional sling swivel shape as part of this stock (the rear swivel is the same triangular shape). That(!), as much as anything, made me want to figure out a solution to work around this problem.

And hiwall, I'm liking that idea of yours, mucho! That would keep me from having to "gob in" the JB Weld (which is made about 70 miles east of me). And a metal plate, with two holes drilled and JB Weld'ed in place, would sure support the Picatinny rail permanently. (Not even sure the holes need to be tapped since there's room for nylon lock nuts). Looks like that's the direction I'm headed. Thanks again everyone.

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Old 01-22-2013, 01:16 AM   #15
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Sincerely: thanks guys for the suggestions!

axxe55, this little 22 only cost me brand new, $210 (delivered & FFL) so I'm not inclined to spend another hundred bucks (once shipping or tax is included) on it. Please take no offense at this because otherwise, it's not a bad idea. Along this same "replacing the stock" thought was my original stubbornness and mindset of wanting to make the cheap Marlin polymer stock work! In my opinion, Marlin already screwed up by molding in such an unconventional sling swivel shape as part of this stock (the rear swivel is the same triangular shape). That(!), as much as anything, made me want to figure out a solution to work around this problem.

And hiwall, I'm liking that idea of yours, mucho! That would keep me from having to "gob in" the JB Weld (which is made about 70 miles east of me). And a metal plate, with two holes drilled and JB Weld'ed in place, would sure support the Picatinny rail permanently. (Not even sure the holes need to be tapped since there's room for nylon lock nuts). Looks like that's the direction I'm headed. Thanks again everyone.
my Savage wasn't much more when bought it new eight years ago. paid like around $250 as a combo deal with a scope. just got to the point a few years ago that i was fed upwith the factory stock and just went ahead and bought the Boyd's laminated stock. best decision i ever made for the rifle. it made a world of difference in how it felt when shooting it. nothing wrong with doing it the way you want to, just trying to save you some time. in a couple of years, you might even wish you had just went and bought the laminated stock in the first place. i know i did! but good luck with your project.
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