[pdluzak]

Hello, I have a USP 45 Tactical and i have been switching between the barrel the firearm came with (with threads) and a normal USP barrel. This is due to my having family in CA, and the threaded barrel is illegal there. I have been keeping a thread protector on the threaded barrel, but i have to remove it when switching the barrel out. When i did this several months ago I had a hard time getting the protector off, but managed it. Now I left my firearm in a safe for a few weeks and when i took it out i noticed rust in a few places and i am completely unable to remove the thread protector. I have tried WD-40 and vise-grip plyers, but all ive been doing is scraping the bluing off of it. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions/advice would be appreciated.

[Minionsram]

You can try putting a small peice of leather around the thread protector and then putting your grips on it. You can also take it to the range and put a few rounds downrange to heat it up, then try to take it off.

Next time use a small amount of Anti-seeze on the threads when you put it back on.

[matt g]

Throw away the WD-40 and use a good penetrating oil, like PB Blaster or something similar. Before re-installing the thread protector, hit is with a little anti-seize.

[TopGun_NV]

Your problem is bad enough, but at least you got the thread protector off a few times. I'm a dealer and am having a nightmare with Sig Sauer thread protectors. In the last couple of weeks I've received a new P226 9 MM and a P239 9MM with threaded barrels and factory thread protectors installed. In both cases I could not remove the thread protectors. I tried everything, WD-40, penetrating oil, heating the thread protector, wrapping them with leather and using channel lock pliers. Nothing will budge them. I finally had to send the P226 back to Sig and it looks like I'm going to have to do the same thing with the P239. I'm so pissed. I thought the first time it was just a fluke, an isolated case. I thought maybe the protector had been cross threaded at the factory, but now, with two guns in a row with this problem, I don't know what to think. I thought about cutting the things off, but I'm leary of damaging the threads on the barrel and voiding the warranty. Is there anyone out there who has experience with this problem? If so, I like to hear from you. My e-mail is topgunfirearms@prodigy.net.

[RL357Mag]

Has anyone ever heard of Kroil - "the oil that Creeps". Once you try it you won't use anything else - guaranteed. It gets into spaces as small as one-one millionth of an inch. I once removed a broken exhaust manifold stud two hours after applying a few drops around the remaining piece of stud. Less than 1/4" of stud was showing from the block and it came out by hand after loosening it with needle nose vice grips. It makes an excellent gun oil, and it makes PB Blaster & WD40(worthless!) obsolete It can only be purchased from the factory at $11.00 for a 10 oz. aerosol can or $41.75 a gallon. I ordered a gallon in 1991 and just ordered another one last week!

Kano Laboratories, Nashville Tenn. (615) 833-4101

[trex1310]

+1 on the Kroil. It is available from Brownell's or MidwayUSA.

[M14sRock]

+1 on Kroil. I have a USP Tactical and my thread protector won't stay on. It always works loose. And remember the reverse threads.

[agoetz2005]

I'll second or 3rd the Kroil.

It works wonders restoring old Enfields. Especially No1's from 1909 etc.