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SW 625 hammer & trigger


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Old 08-20-2015, 12:02 AM   #1
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Default SW 625 hammer & trigger

I tried to learn by doing on my SW 625JM, using a Jerry Miculek dvd and rounded the edges of my hammer and trigger (evidently) i had used a flat stone and tried to be careful, but have since been told i really needed a jig (well nothing about that was on the dvd)

Anyway, with relatively slight pressure I can make the hammer fall when it is cocked. I have been told this can only be remedied by starting over with new parts - yet they dont seem to be in production now.

This gun is just a range gun, would never carry it. It wouildnt be in single action unless I was already pointed down range.

Just not sure of what my options are now
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Old 08-20-2015, 11:46 AM   #2
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That is why most do not recommend following what is posted on Youtube.

Most like frame parts are interchangeable, but check here:
http://www.midwayusa.com/find?itemsperpage=0&newcategorydimensionid=17370
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Old 08-20-2015, 12:12 PM   #3
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Hammer at the Midway link is blued, not polished - I had seen that already.

The DvD came with the spring kit i bought from Miculek, so I thought it would be credible.
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Old 08-20-2015, 04:02 PM   #4
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What you are describing is called "push off". I need to go back and review my armorers materials to give a good answer as this is not common. It has been a while since I had to deal with it.
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Old 08-20-2015, 04:16 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robocop10mm View Post
What you are describing is called "push off". I need to go back and review my armorers materials to give a good answer as this is not common. It has been a while since I had to deal with it.
Thank you, I would appreciate any advice
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Old 08-22-2015, 08:46 PM   #6
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When I took my training they cautioned that you really don't want to touch the S&W triggers. If you do use a brand new ceramic stone and work very carefully so as not to change any angles. IIRC, single action sear/hammer engagement is something around 0.005".
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Old 09-27-2015, 04:57 PM   #7
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In all honesty I do not see any options for the gun other than a replacement of parts. I have been where you are. Long, long ago I 'improved' the trigger pull on a Charter Arms 38 with a similar result. Weirdly, back in those days CA refused to sell me a new hammer or trigger. I had to wait a decade for the firm to go bankrupt and the CA parts I needed to pop up on someone else's website before I could undo what I as a know nothing novice had done.
<LoL to the other issue about steel pins and aluminum frames, that was a learning too.>

With an S&W however the parts issue is more complex. Each variation of 25-# appears to involve more and more changes. There appears to be almost zero parts interchangeability between a 25 and a 625. Cylinders, hammers, triggers, all different. I dislike the target hammer and the target trigger on my 25-5, and once thought a Model 1950 trigger or hammer would simply drop in. Sadly not so. Even a simple thing like a barrel swap from 8 3/8" down to 4", because of a change in how they were made, took a very long time and I had to wait for S&W to dump a bunch of nickeled 4" m25-5 barrels out there before I could even begin to convert my revolver to the configuration I wanted.

What's your best option? The stoning away of metal you did can not be undone. Just keep checking gunparts, jackfirst, gunbroker, etc until the day the exact correct hammer, trigger, etc shows up.
File Type: jpg Model25-5.jpg (63.2 KB, 10 views)
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