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mikem1959 01-09-2013 10:36 PM

strange commander link
has anyone seen a link and spring guide like this?the guide face is angled and has a leaf spring inside?gun has been getting harder to engage thumb safety and i noticed the slide is notgoing all the way forward.sometimes it doesn't fire, so i push the slide a little bit and it fires.the slide springs back a little bit when all the way foreward. sorry pics aint working.the barrel link has a notch in it.

danf_fl 01-09-2013 11:10 PM

Does it look like this aftermarket piece?

mikem1959 01-10-2013 01:17 AM

yes it does,but has a short guide rod.

danf_fl 01-10-2013 09:47 AM

The principle is the same.
It is designed to push the barrel up into the barrel locking lugs to a more consistent lock-up.

I never had the need to use one in my firearms.

mikem1959 01-10-2013 02:42 PM

i am wondering if this might have something to do with the slide problem?i have orderd a new recoil spring,if that does'nt help i think i will get a new link and spring guide.

danf_fl 01-10-2013 03:05 PM


Originally Posted by mikem1959 (Post 1087926)
i am wondering if this might have something to do with the slide problem?i have orderd a new recoil spring,if that does'nt help i think i will get a new link and spring guide.

When there is a problem, work your way backwards and to the original configuration.
Yes, it could create a slide problem. What are the symptoms?

mikem1959 01-10-2013 04:58 PM

thank you dan for your insights,i will post again after atempting repairs.

Genec 01-10-2013 06:12 PM

While I'm not a smith, I have built a 1911 or two......I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about. The guide rod has nothing to do with the barrel link or the gun going into full battery or not.. The barrel link is instrumental in the 'timing' of the 1911, in that, when a 1911 is fired, the energy of the explosion propells the bullet out the barrel and also forces the slide to the rear, the slide pulls the barrel back with it. The link, which is attached to the frame (by the link pin) keeps the barrel from going all the way back with the slide. The link also acts to pull the barrel down so that the slide will continue back and not shear the locking lugs or otherwise get in the way of the slide's movement. So the recoil spring causes the slide to slide back forward, where it strips a new cartridge and slams it into the chamber and then the slide into battery. The link is cammed so that as the barrel and slide move forward , it pushes the barrel up, mating the lugs into the grooves in the slide. Now, the link is the heart of all this happening properly, which refers to the timing. The link can be too short or too long or just right, FOR THAT GUN. What should happen is, at the exact moment the gun goes bang and the slide begins movement to the rear, the link should catch and start pulling the barrel down, unlocking the lugs from the slide. Now, the barrel will, by physics, move rearward also and there are 2 legs at the back of the barrel. So, if the link is too long, when the barrel is slammed back, the rear of the barrel will slam into the frame, causing damage to both. Also, when the slide goes back and forth, the lugs aren't getting out of the way fast enough nor enough and the lugs will get sheared and the slide grooves will get sheared. Now, when the link is too short, everything will work ok( but think of the barrel going back and forth on the link pin on an arc, link too long, arc too long, link too short, arc too short), but the slide won't go into battery all the way. i would suggest taking it to a 1911 smith and let them look at it. I'd advise not shooting it until you do.

danf_fl 01-10-2013 07:57 PM

Genec, He has the group gripper installed.
It is a "shortcut" used to tighten the slide, barrel, and frame.

Hallock had a similar suggestion in his book about installing a set screw through the frame that pushed up on the link when the slide was in battery. The idea is to have consistent lock up.

If the firearm is returned to original condition, he should be all right.

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