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Old 12-08-2012, 01:30 AM   #1
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Default Ruger MKIII LCI Filler Installation

I hope it's okay for me to do this write-up. I'm new here so if it's not, feel free to remove it or let me know what I need to do to make it acceptable. I will preface this writeup by saying that I am not a gunsmith. I have worked on all of my guns and I have done most of my mods to my guns. I do not proclaim to be an expert, but I am fairly mechanically inclined and, perhaps more importantly, I have good tools. Having the right tool for the job is paramount in successful gunsmith endeavors. Please let me know if you have questions or concerns and I will try to address them as best as I can. If I can't address them, I will do my best to find you a suitable answer. Again, I'm just an amateur here guys... Hoping this info will help someone out. Thanks for checking this out.

Here goes...

I recently contacted Bruce Patza about obtaining one of his Loaded Chamber Indicator (LCI) fillers for my Ruger 22/45 Mark III Hunter. He promptly replied to my inquiries via email and I sent a check out to him. I received the LCI Filler Kit in my mailbox today and installed it this evening. I have to say that I'm thoroughly impressed with the quality of the product. He machined it exquisitely and it fit perfectly flush with no fitting at all. I really couldn't possibly be any happier with this product. Installation took me about 10 minutes. Actually, it took longer because I cleaned the gun while I had it apart and took photos of the process, but I could do the install in roughly 10 minutes. Below is a bit about the process and a few images to go along with it. If you're going to do this, please make sure you're working with a SAFE firearm. Double-check it. Triple-check it. Whatever. Just please be safe.

Okay...

Bruce includes the LCI Filler in your choice of Standard Stainless, Bead Blasted Stainless, Gloss Blued or Matte Blued (they are $18, $19, $21 and $22 respectively, including shipping), some 220 grit sandpaper, an allen key and a set screw. All pieces are good quality and having everything you need included makes this a really great value. Everything came taped to a piece of paper along with an instruction sheet (not pictured).


This image and the one below it are of my pistol with the LCI as it is installed from the Ruger factory.



I used a magnet on the bottom of a flashlight to remove the small retaining pin for the LCI. I had to just give the LCI a little push with my thumb and the pin slipped right out with out incident (I didn't photograph this step because I needed both hands).

After making sure the Filler fit, I put a little bit of thread locker on the set screw and threaded it into the Filler until it was just snug. Do not over-tighten the set screw. It can strip out and then you'd be in a whole world of trouble.


The LCI Filler is in place with the screw snugly tucked away.


The last three images are just a few of the pistol with the LCI Filler in place. You can see that the finish matches the pistol nicely and fills the gap cleanly and effectively. I am very pleased with the fitment and overall appearance of this addition to my firearm.




You may be asking yourself, "Why did he just replace his LCI with a piece of metal?" My answer comes in one word: CLEANING.

Ruger's lawyer-appeasing decision to include the Loaded Chamber Indicator not only ruins the look of the whole left side of the gun, but it makes it incredibly difficult to clean. The LCI essentially produced a small shelf inside the chamber of the gun. When a round was chambered, the rim of the cartridge would push on the shelf, exposing the LCI on the side of the gun. I don't mean to be a jerk here, but if you need a piece of plastic protruding from your gun to know it's loaded, you missed a vital step in gun handling basics. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS check to make sure a gun is or is not loaded before putting your ol' booger hook on the bang switch. CHECK TO SEE IF IT'S LOADED! Please don't rely on a plastic tab to tell you this. The shelf in the chamber created a series of nooks and crevices that stayed dirty all the time. I have an electronic optic semi-permanently mounted to my pistol so I can't just drop the whole barreled upper assembly in a vat of Hoppes to clean it. I have to get in there with little toothpicks and Q-Tips and what not and despite my best efforts, I always left crud in the corners. I changed out my LCI for this reason and this reason alone. As silly as I think the LCI is, I removed it because it was a pain in the rear to clean around.

If you're looking to replace yours, it's an easy process and an inexpensive part. You send a check or cash to Bruce, he sends you an LCI Filler kit. Simple. Straight forward. High quality.

Please PM or email me or comment here if you have questions, concerns or comments. I hope I didn't come off snarky, rude or condescending. I wrote this as if someone didn't know anything about the LCI because I'm sure there are folks out there that don't. Please don't think that I was trying to be anything other than thorough and informative.

If you see fault in my installation or information, please help me out by letting me know so that I can correct it. If you want Bruce's contact information, please let me know through PM and I'll send you his info.

Thanks for taking the time to read through this.

Kind regards,
Matthew

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Old 12-08-2012, 11:34 AM   #2
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Quote:
You may be asking yourself, "Why did he just replace his LCI with a piece of metal?" My answer comes in one word: CLEANING.
Cleaning is a major fix with this. Also I know the exact state of every rifle, pistol, shotgun I own at all times. I don't need some ugly Lawyer/ idiot proof junk to tell my my gun is loaded.
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Old 12-08-2012, 02:58 PM   #3
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Thanks for the demonstration.
It's nice to input like this.

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