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Old 01-24-2010, 05:23 PM   #1
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Default Removing rust

Hi All,

I got an old Remington .22 LR rifle given to me. Functions perfectly.

I did a search but could'nt find anything matching what I'd like to do.

On the barrell, I have what I hope is surface rust. I can't quite tell if it's into the blueing yet.

So far, I've been told to use 0000 steel wool and Hopes. Slowly and carefully.I haven't started yet, I don't want to go into the blueing.

Is there any other solvent/cleaner/implement I can try that would help me? I have in the past tried "Flitz" and it went way too far.

The gun is'nt worth re blueing.

Thanks for any input.

Regards,

Mark

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Old 01-24-2010, 05:56 PM   #2
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Where's BILLYBOB44?

He has a barrel tank he made up to DE-RUST his rifle. He says it's easy/cheap to make and works great.

Try this:

Electrolytic Rust Removal aka Magic

Electrolytic Rust Removal


Tech Tips -- Electrolytic Rust Removal

Electrolytic Rust Removal

article-electro

My Electrolytic Derusting Setup

That should keep you busy!
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Old 01-24-2010, 08:11 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpyle View Post
I imagine a thorough cleaning with a product like CLR would eliminate the surface rust and any oxidation from the metal surfaces. Follow this up with a full cleaning with Hoppes 9 and a real thorough lubrication of all metal parts. Any residual pitting or marks on the barrel can be fixed or can just be left to add character.

There are do it yourself re-blueing kits available if you do not want to sink any more money into a professional job.
STOP RIGHT THERE.

Using CLR will remove any and all bluing left on the rifle. Seeing as Bluing is a form of controlled RUST.

Step 1: Rub rifle down with a good cloth and hoppes #9

Let it soak for 10 to 15 minutes.

Step 2: Wipe down and see if rust is still present.

If No: take other cloth (Silicone gun cleaning cloth or cloth soaked in Rem oil) and put a light coat of oil on ALL Metal parts.

If yes: Go to Step three

Step 3: get 0000 or 000 steel wool and hoppes #9 and apply hoppes to steel wool and gently (Like you are rubbing on your lady) run in a circular motion (Think Karate Kid wax on wax off) never applying too much pressure. Once you see some rust coming off stop and wipe down to see how much and how deep rust is. If some has come off and it looks light then keep going with step 3.

If you have pitting you will know once you're done with step three. If you have pitting then you are going to need to do a lot more work that may involve draw filing and sanding along with rebluing the rife.
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Old 01-24-2010, 11:17 PM   #4
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Thanks for catching that. I have never tried CLR on a rifle but was given that advice before. Glad to know the FTF peer review process works to keep boneheaded suggestions from being followed.

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Old 01-24-2010, 11:22 PM   #5
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Or you could do this:

http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f35/my-tango-plunkungfest-westeren-auto-120-a-14041/#post107914

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Old 01-24-2010, 11:35 PM   #6
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I like Tango's method, but I'd use PB Blaster instead of hoppes.
Its a penetrating oil used for breaking free rusted bolts and parts. Ive used it for years cleaning up firearms. Doesn't hurt bluing.
Look for it at your auto parts store.------Gate

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Old 01-25-2010, 12:14 AM   #7
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Default PB

Wow...that was close.....I almost started w/ CLR figuring it had a little bit of grit to it.

I use PB Blaster all the time on my truck, never thought of it for this use.

Thanks everyone, I'll start by reading all the references by Cane.

Anyone else please chime in.

There's three feet of snow on the ground here and I'm going crazy for something to do, so I pulled this old Remington out.

I could do some kind of tank in the basement, I'm used to my garage, but it's too damn cold right now.

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Old 01-25-2010, 12:59 AM   #8
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Default Western Auto

Hey Cane!

I just saw your re-do on the western auto.

Excellent idea. Any updated pics of the newer finish?

I didnt want to pay someone to re-blue mine, but if the rust is to much, you've given me some great ideas.

What I've got is a Remington ,smooth bore .22 pump. I'd never seen one before.

Anyone here tell me about it? Apparently, from what I can find, it was marketed at the time as a child Bird gun sort of thing.

Anyone?

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Old 01-25-2010, 01:08 AM   #9
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Rather than CLR, try CLP- Cleaner, Lubricate, Protector.

PB Blaster is great stuff- so is Kroil. Both super penetrating oils. I wet surface, wrap, let marinate for hours/a day. Rub with a clean cloth, changing area in contact frequently. For HEAVY rust, after soaking, use 0000 steel wool soaked in Kroil. For REALLY heavy rust, a brass pot scrubber soaked in Kroil. Some folks used to recommend the edge of a penny for heavy rust- but that was when they were made of copper, not copper plated zinc.

As the man said, remember bluing is black iron oxide. Any chemical that removes rust (red iron oxide) WILL remove bluing. Any mechanical polishing (Flitz, Brasso, steel wool, 80 grit sandpaper) WILL wear thru the very thin layer of bluing if you rub too much. The penetrating oil and clean, soft cloth is about the least abrasive that works. Slow, time consuming, but it works. Heck, sit there and rub the rifle down while watching TV or something.

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Old 01-25-2010, 01:19 AM   #10
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Remington did a couple of smoothbore 22 pumps. These were not kids guns- but they were used for an indoor version of trap- called (IIRC) MossKeetTo. The 572 was the most common- and there was a smoothbore 121. Careful on the refinishing- these can be worth some bucks. Saw an Excellent grade 121 up for sale for $1K+ and the 572 is several hundred. Congratulations!

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