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Old 08-11-2010, 01:44 AM   #11
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Duracoat is air dry. Prep is the key to a good job (and 2 weeks of cure time). Brownells had different colors available (more at the manf website). Don't be in a hurry. If there is a run, leave it and let it dry. after 2 weeks, then try to fix the run.
What is nice about duracoat is that you can re-touch up later if needed.

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Old 08-11-2010, 01:44 AM   #12
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PARKERIZING BLACK-GREY CONCENTRATE COMBO NEW KIT GS - eBay (item 370416658913 end time Aug-11-10 20:08:41 PDT)
I bought a kit like this one on ebay to do my 1903 springfield I had found that needed refinishing. First I soaked it overnight in a rust remover then sanded and wirebrushed to make it smoot, should have took more time on that part. I followed the directions and cleaned it good with the degreaser then parkerized.
The problem was that I didn't have a stainless tank that I could fit a reciever and barrel and couldn't heat a plastic one. So I took a piece of 4 inch pipe and capped both ends and put a water heater element in the cap. It turned out really well i think. I tried it because I had absolutly nothing in the gun I found it in an abandoned house so I decided it was worth a try.
The only thing I would do different is sand the pitting smoother if you notice on the 3rd and 4th pic but if you don't have pitting it shouldn't be a problem. Oil it very well when it is done. I used the grey because that is what came on the springfield but i got the black to use on a shotgun I was going to cut down but since I found one already done I think I will use it on a cheap hunting rifle because I think it looks cooler than bluing and hides better. good luck
013.jpg   015.jpg   016.jpg   017.jpg  
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Old 08-11-2010, 02:39 AM   #13
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Thanks.

.....

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Old 08-11-2010, 03:16 AM   #14
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The Aluma Hyde 2 is an aerosol, air dry. It is epoxy based and super easy to use. But like Dan said, prep is key. Brownells sells it, and it is about $10 a can.

It will be dry to the touch in about a day. Cured to "ready to use" in about 2 weeks. And hard as armor in a few months.

I've used it for years and have been 100% happy.

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Old 08-11-2010, 03:25 AM   #15
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Okay, I may be willing to give one or the other a try. How tough is it to replace the trigger?

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Old 08-11-2010, 05:16 AM   #16
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Quote:
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Okay, I may be willing to give one or the other a try. How tough is it to replace the trigger?
On a 1917 a half blind, untrained monkey could replace the trigger.

I like the durability of the USGI trigger, so just cleaned mine up a bit. It works just fine.
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Old 08-11-2010, 05:20 AM   #17
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A half blind, untrained monkey may be a good description of my skill level.

I may need your help for setting overtravel etc.

Okay, I'm going to buy the trigger and install it myself. I'll pick up a Duracoat kit and give that a whack too. That should save me around a hundred bucks.

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Old 08-11-2010, 05:38 AM   #18
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Quote:
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A half blind, untrained monkey may be a good description of my skill level.

I may need your help for setting overtravel etc.

Okay, I'm going to buy the trigger and install it myself. I'll pick up a Duracoat kit and give that a whack too. That should save me around a hundred bucks.
Buying a can of Aluma Hyde 2 paint from Brownells will cost you about $10. Duracoat is great stuff, but do they have an aerosol?

Let me know if you need help with any of it.
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Old 08-11-2010, 09:37 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M14sRock View Post
Buying a can of Aluma Hyde 2 paint from Brownells will cost you about $10. Duracoat is great stuff, but do they have an aerosol?

Let me know if you need help with any of it.
Yes, it comes in spray cans. "A whole lotta shakin" is required.
I use TCE from Brownells as a cleaner (and they can ship with Duracoat). Follow the directions and there should not be a problem. Be careful on the outside temp.
Have a well ventilated area for both.
I spray a fine mist as initial coat (barely see the paint, but it is there), wait 10 mins, spray a heavier coat (and don't recoat any misses spots yet, you'll get the runs), wait 15 - 20 mins, then spray last and final coat, wait 15-20 mins, check for missed spots and lightly spray them, then wait 2 weeks. Trying to put it on in one coat will allow flaking later. And the can has a warning about waiting too long between coats.

You can see runs on the slide (and where I tried to fix while wet) and all on a 1911 I was working on the the "DIY" forum.
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Old 08-11-2010, 03:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danf_fl View Post
Yes, it comes in spray cans. "A whole lotta shakin" is required.
I use TCE from Brownells as a cleaner (and they can ship with Duracoat). Follow the directions and there should not be a problem. Be careful on the outside temp.
Have a well ventilated area for both.
I spray a fine mist as initial coat (barely see the paint, but it is there), wait 10 mins, spray a heavier coat (and don't recoat any misses spots yet, you'll get the runs), wait 15 - 20 mins, then spray last and final coat, wait 15-20 mins, check for missed spots and lightly spray them, then wait 2 weeks. Trying to put it on in one coat will allow flaking later. And the can has a warning about waiting too long between coats.

You can see runs on the slide (and where I tried to fix while wet) and all on a 1911 I was working on the the "DIY" forum.
Cool, Dan. The Duracoat sounds almost exactly the same as the AH2. Same prep, same application, same cure, etc.
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