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Old 05-04-2010, 05:36 AM   #11
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The sear spring applies forward pressure to the sear and disconnector.


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Old 05-04-2010, 05:46 AM   #12
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Okay, I had it right. It sat on top of the disconnector and kind of under the sear.
Thanks for your help. I'll see if I can get a gunsmith to help me out tomorrow.


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Old 05-04-2010, 05:56 AM   #13
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Sear spring SHOULD be making contact with the left, backside of the sear.

The sear spring should just be layed on top of the sear and ramp of the disconnector.

Slide the MSH partially into place to hold everything. Then, lay the hammer strut down and put the grip safety in place. Then thumb back the hammer and seat the thumb safety.

Finally, slide the MSH all the way up, ease the hammer down and get the pin in.
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Old 05-04-2010, 08:16 AM   #14
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I bought a good CD by Ed Brown on 1911's. Very informative. Also, Brownells Webbench articles have tons of info.
(And for people like me, some of the articles include pictures.)
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Old 05-04-2010, 02:00 PM   #15
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Did you get it together yet? These guys are giving you good advise. Let me know so that I may help you.

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Originally Posted by CA357 View Post
Okay, I had it right. It sat on top of the disconnector and kind of under the sear.
Thanks for your help. I'll see if I can get a gunsmith to help me out tomorrow.
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Old 05-04-2010, 02:21 PM   #16
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I found that if the hammer is in between the cocked and half cocked position the thumb saftey goes right in. As you are putting the saftey in juggel the hammer between the full cocked and half cock position,
F.K.
P.S. Is this a new saftey ? If it is some times you have to diyckim(sp) the saftey and find were it is hitting and stone off this area untill it fits right.

Last edited by Fisherking; 05-04-2010 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 05-04-2010, 03:31 PM   #17
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The safety is an extended model and was fitted by the gunsmith that re-did the pistol. It was working just fine. I have no idea why it will not engage correctly.

BTW, in installing and uninstalling it I have scratched the frame again. So now I have to put another coat of finish on it.
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Old 05-04-2010, 05:52 PM   #18
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No one mentioned the safety must be orientated so that it's halfway between “engaged” and “off” while inserting.

From Brownells Building A 1911 – Part VI

Remove the grip safety, but leave the other components installed. With the hammer in the cocked position, you can trial fit the thumb safety to see if it will go into the frame and the lug on the thumb safety will fit behind the sear. It should be too long to fit, and a little metal will have to be removed from the lug. Put the safety in until it’s contacting the side of the sear. With a long leather-sewing needle scribe a line on the lug of the thumb safety to show approximately how far to file the lug down.



This is generally a lot of trial and error so go slow, and check your progress often. It should just fit with slight contact on the sear to prevent it from moving. Check it by pulling the trigger with the hammer cocked and the safety on, there should be NO movement of the hammer. Now, push the thumb safety down to release it. Again, there should be no movement of the hammer. If there is some movement, something is wrong. Double check to see if too much metal has been removed from the thumb safety lug. If so, you’ll have to get another thumb safety and start over, No errors allowed here! If it does function correctly, deburr and radius all the edges and install all of these components into the frame.

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Old 05-04-2010, 06:26 PM   #19
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Thanks Cane. I wish I had those illustrations last night.

There is now a Plan B and it has been executed. Stay tuned for exciting details in due time.
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Old 05-04-2010, 07:07 PM   #20
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MORE BIGGER IS MORE BETTER







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