[eon047]

Hi guys while I was shopping around for M1 Garand(had a earlier forum post on that.) And then i realized i could build one from a parts kit. Does anyone have experience in building this so i can get the most bang for my buck? a parts list and tool list would be awesome. I'm hearing you only need the original GI combo tool and maybe something else? Also what can i expect in grade quality and price if i build it myself? Will it be superior to buying one? I also have the AGI course on building one as well to help along the way.

[c3shooter]

Typically a "parts kit" does NOT include a receiver. Legally, a receiver IS the gun, and buying one is subject to the same restrictions as buying a functioning rifle.

[JonM]

the critical part is mounting the barrel to the reciever correctly and squarly with the proper index then reaming the chamber to the correct throat. building your own can easily exceed the cost of a pre-built one from cmp.

finding a good quality reciever isnt that easy. i would recomend buying a shooter then when its worn out have it rebuilt. its not like building your own ar15 at all.

[CHUCK70]

www.jamesriverarmory.com
chuck 70

[CHUCK70]

Welcome to James River Armory
chuck 70

[eon047]

I see. Anyone know what grade I can expect for what price? I'm talking if I build it myself. so is it always more expensive then buying one from cmp? or its a case by case basis?

[JonM]

its case by case but it sounds like your really unfamiliar with the garand. its just best for your first one to be in good working condition. once you learn its ins and outs then build one not saying you cant just jump right in just dont expect to save money if you do it cold feet.

the tool you will get the most out of is a bolt disassembly/reassembly tool i highly recomend the strobel m1 m14 carbine bolt tool. it works really well on all three bolts.

another must have is the gas cylinder combo tool and gas cylinder plug valve fixture the valve tool really helps cleaning but not reallllly needed less you shoot a LOT. the combo tool serves as a means to steady the barrel while adjusting the front sight, has a screwdriver end for removing the gas plug and serves as a wrench for removing the cylinder itself.

a .30 cal muzzle gage is a MUST have if your shopping for a garand M1a or m1 carbine in gunstores or gunshows. avoid counterbored rifles unless the rest of the gun is in very good condition and you plan on rebarreling or just want a plinker and get a smoking good price. counterbored barrels were shot out and then the first section of rifling removed. always assume counterbores have excessive throat erosion unless you invest in a throat gage. because any schmuck with a power drill can counter-bore i would personally not fire a counter-bored rifle barrel of unknown origin regardless of what the seller says. you see this a LOT at gunshows and pawnshops. the military did counter bore barrels as a field expedient measure during wartime. they also did it for training rifles but they also re-throated the barrels. joe shmoe with the power drill didnt re-throat and there is no way to tell and no way to tell if it was bored correctly.

a poor man's bore gauge is a dummy round with a real .308 bullet set to the proper OAL drop the point in the muzzle if the brass hits the muzzel its a worn barrel.

if you plan building:

throat gauge
bolt timing gauge
gas cylinder gauge
reciever wrench
chamber reamer

i list those as optional because unless your sorting through spare parts or building from scratch with unknown parts you dont really need em. they all list for over 100$ each for milspec versions. the cost of those tools are why you wont save money unless you plan on building and selling garands to make money.

[triggerman770]

you will also need a barrel vise. It's best to get one from the CMP as it has the shoulders that keep the barrel from moving as you tighten up the receiver
.

[masterPsmith]

Originally Posted by JonM

its case by case but it sounds like your really unfamiliar with the garand. its just best for your first one to be in good working condition. once you learn its ins and outs then build one not saying you cant just jump right in just dont expect to save money if you do it cold feet.

the tool you will get the most out of is a bolt disassembly/reassembly tool i highly recomend the strobel m1 m14 carbine bolt tool. it works really well on all three bolts.

another must have is the gas cylinder combo tool and gas cylinder plug valve fixture the valve tool really helps cleaning but not reallllly needed less you shoot a LOT. the combo tool serves as a means to steady the barrel while adjusting the front sight, has a screwdriver end for removing the gas plug and serves as a wrench for removing the cylinder itself.

a .30 cal muzzle gage is a MUST have if your shopping for a garand M1a or m1 carbine in gunstores or gunshows. avoid counterbored rifles unless the rest of the gun is in very good condition and you plan on rebarreling or just want a plinker and get a smoking good price. counterbored barrels were shot out and then the first section of rifling removed. always assume counterbores have excessive throat erosion unless you invest in a throat gage. because any schmuck with a power drill can counter-bore i would personally not fire a counter-bored rifle barrel of unknown origin regardless of what the seller says. you see this a LOT at gunshows and pawnshops. the military did counter bore barrels as a field expedient measure during wartime. they also did it for training rifles but they also re-throated the barrels. joe shmoe with the power drill didnt re-throat and there is no way to tell and no way to tell if it was bored correctly.

a poor man's bore gauge is a dummy round with a real .308 bullet set to the proper OAL drop the point in the muzzle if the brass hits the muzzel its a worn barrel.

if you plan building:

throat gauge
bolt timing gauge
gas cylinder gauge
reciever wrench
chamber reamer

i list those as optional because unless your sorting through spare parts or building from scratch with unknown parts you dont really need em. they all list for over 100$ each for milspec versions. the cost of those tools are why you wont save money unless you plan on building and selling garands to make money.

Can't forget headspace gauges. This build is not a job for the unexperienced. JMHO.......

Jim.......

[eon047]

Awesome thanks for the reply's guys. I will be doing some shopping and some borrowing. already got me some head space gauges. I'm not unfamiliar with building rifles so it shouldn't be an impossible project. Ill come back here and let you guys know how it goes. Thanks for the advice.