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Old 11-22-2012, 10:10 PM   #11
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Again, I appreciate all of your advice and I think I'll leave it alone for now and see if I come accross a good deal on a barrel. It's still got me thinking though.

As far as dies, I'd bore out the neck of 3030 myself or just get neck bushings in the right size.
For reloading data I'd probanly start just below the starting loads for 3030 and work up watching for signs of max pressure, but I probably wouldn'mt exceed max for 3030.

Thanks again for all of your imput

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Old 11-22-2012, 10:12 PM   #12
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I'm located in tx, close to houston. I don't know any around here personally, just spoken with a few from some stores around me. I the most of what the do is swap and fit parts. I havn't heard any of them talk much about major mods they've done.

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Old 11-22-2012, 11:39 PM   #13
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With a piloted drill bit you could drill out the barrel and install a barrel liner.

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Old 11-22-2012, 11:50 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiwall
With a piloted drill bit you could drill out the barrel and install a barrel liner.
Barrel liners have a 50-75% failure rating for a good reason. They are a cheap non safe way of doing it. Especially on a wildcat rifle.
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Old 11-23-2012, 01:45 AM   #15
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I admit that I never did a center-fire liner but I have done dozens of 22 liners and they work great.

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Old 11-23-2012, 01:50 AM   #16
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Quote:
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I admit that I never did a center-fire liner but I have done dozens of 22 liners and they work great.
22 has NOWHERE the power nor the heat of a centerfire. Iv seen 3 out of 5 liners put in guns blow out.....iv seen 10 linered guns if you count rimfires.
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:02 PM   #17
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I don't know if I would want to do a sleeve if it were not threaded or bonded in a way that thermal expansion and contraction wouldn't effect it. (<<<< badly woorded sentence) I don't know much about them though. With engines we sleeve cylinders with a few thousanths of interfearence, heat the block, freeze the sleeves, bond them with special locktite and there is still no gurentee that they won't work loose. I can't imagine it being any better with a barrel.

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Old 11-24-2012, 08:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alucas2006
I don't know if I would want to do a sleeve if it were not threaded or bonded in a way that thermal expansion and contraction wouldn't effect it. (<<<< badly woorded sentence) I don't know much about them though. With engines we sleeve cylinders with a few thousanths of interfearence, heat the block, freeze the sleeves, bond them with special locktite and there is still no gurentee that they won't work loose. I can't imagine it being any better with a barrel.
It isn't. Its actually a better guarantee to work on engine blocks.
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:13 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alucas2006 View Post
I don't know if I would want to do a sleeve if it were not threaded or bonded in a way that thermal expansion and contraction wouldn't effect it. (<<<< badly woorded sentence) I don't know much about them though. With engines we sleeve cylinders with a few thousanths of interfearence, heat the block, freeze the sleeves, bond them with special locktite and there is still no gurentee that they won't work loose. I can't imagine it being any better with a barrel.
the principal idea is about the same. i equate them about the same. if you have a car you were restoring and it was a numbers matching car, then to me sleeving the block is an alternative that makes sense in a restoration type application in keeping the value of the car intact. the same with a firearm, to me. if the firearm is of sentimental value and someone still wanted to use it, then maybe lining the barrel might be an alternative.

that particular rifle should be able to be rebarreled pretty easily. like i said, talk to a gunsmith and see what it would cost. might even call Marlin and see if they would rebarrel it.
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
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the principal idea is about the same. i equate them about the same. if you have a car you were restoring and it was a numbers matching car, then to me sleeving the block is an alternative that makes sense in a restoration type application in keeping the value of the car intact. the same with a firearm, to me. if the firearm is of sentimental value and someone still wanted to use it, then maybe lining the barrel might be an alternative.

that particular rifle should be able to be rebarreled pretty easily. like i said, talk to a gunsmith and see what it would cost. might even call Marlin and see if they would rebarrel it.
They should. It'd take anywheres from 2 days to a week for me to barrel it. It would all just depend on what kind of barrel it is and the work I would have to do to it.
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