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Old 11-22-2012, 06:12 AM   #1
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Default Looking for opinions

Hello everyone, Thank you for taking the time to at least look at this. First off, I am a brand new member and haven't found what I am looking for reguarding what I'm looking to do.

I have a marlin 336 30/30 with a badly pitted barrel. It went through a flood and I recently cleaned it and it functions well, however accuracy is just on paper at 50yd, and I don't know where it's going at 100.

I'd like to continue using the gun because it was free, but can't see footing the cost to have the barrel replaced, or even doing it myself since for just a couple or few more hundreds I could just buy a brand new one.

I'm not a professional smith, and honestly havn't been into guns much before this past year, but I do consider myself very mechanically inclined and I've learned a lot over the past year and would love to get into smithing with this as my first major project.

I'd like to slug a clean part of the barrel and slowly lap it out to 357(nominaly), then slug the chamber and lap only the neck and the section just ahead of it (which I keep wanting to call the forcing cone) to esentially create at 3030/357 hybrid wildcat.

Can I get opinions on this? I wouldn't mind loading the rounds (as I already do so for many calibers), and I feel this would solve a couple problems I have.

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Old 11-22-2012, 06:55 AM   #2
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You want to create a 35 Remington.....pretty much. Yes its possible. Not a project advisable for a beginning smith. Swing by the inteo section and tell us a bit about yourself as well mon ami

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Old 11-22-2012, 07:40 PM   #3
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Essentiall yes, similar to a 35rem, but with the smaller case, and lower pressure capacities of the 3030 case. I was thinking if I turned down some bushings to run a rod through it would keep the rod off the barrel and the slug straight. Out of curiosoty, why would you advise against it? I know it would take a few days total to lap 49 hundreths out of it, and I might loose more material from the lands than grooves, but what other issues might I run into?

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Old 11-22-2012, 07:48 PM   #4
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Getting the bore out of sink causing wobble, taking WAY to much out of the lands to give proper spin/stabalization and I wouldn't advise it bc iv had to fix other people's "I can do this myself" fubars.

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Old 11-22-2012, 08:23 PM   #5
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personally i see quite a few problems with it. do you have a lathe? what are your machining skills? are you planning on removing the barrel? have you thought about reloading dies?

for all the trouble to do it correctly, you would be much better off buying another barrel or even a barrel blank and making one.

personally i see project that will not ever even be as accurate as what you have now, if it doesn't blow up in your face. my best advice, would be to buck up and pay a real gunsmith to rebarrel it, or just hang it up on the wall and leave it be.

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Old 11-22-2012, 09:13 PM   #6
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I can understand that. How much do you think, or any experienced smith, it might cost to have this done? I don't mind trying a failing because a few smiths have told me with the barrel the way it is, it's no better than a paper weight. I appreciate your advise. What kind of tools are required to keep the bore straight?

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Old 11-22-2012, 09:24 PM   #7
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To axxe55: My skills are mainly automotive bassed. I've rebuilt and swapped engines and have access to a lathe. I don't feel the cost of replacing or even having a barrel made would be worth it. Since it won't hit paper at 100you yards, I figure I can't do much worse. I'm not trying to build a 1000yd700 rifle, or even 500. The farthest it will probably be shot is 300. I'm just looking for something to do with it other than put it in a case for show or let it die in the safe (my other two options). Since it's such a cheap rifle, and mine was free, I just can't see putting more than it's worth into it.

As far as dies, if I can open a bore, I can open a die also. Loading for it wouldn't be my concern.

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Old 11-22-2012, 09:34 PM   #8
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first would be to have the barrel bored out and then rifled. you said it would only be .049 of an inch is correct, but look at it on a dial caliper. huge change in the bore! would need a proper lather to bore it out straight and true and then it would need to be rifled. all of which are very specialized and very expensive equipment. definately not the job for a budding DIY gunsmith.

find a gunsmith in your area and find out if they would simply just replace the barrel with an OEM barrel from Marlin. or maybe even a replacement barrel in 35 Rem. if you want something different.

if, and that's a huge if you were to get it done, you mentioned reloading as it would be a wildcat, what about reloading dies? yes a set of custom dies can be made, but they are going to be very expensive and take a while to be made. what about reloading data? what powders to use and what charge weight to stay in safe pressure ranges for the chamber and bore.

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Old 11-22-2012, 09:39 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alucas2006 View Post
To axxe55: My skills are mainly automotive bassed. I've rebuilt and swapped engines and have access to a lathe. I don't feel the cost of replacing or even having a barrel made would be worth it. Since it won't hit paper at 100you yards, I figure I can't do much worse. I'm not trying to build a 1000yd700 rifle, or even 500. The farthest it will probably be shot is 300. I'm just looking for something to do with it other than put it in a case for show or let it die in the safe (my other two options). Since it's such a cheap rifle, and mine was free, I just can't see putting more than it's worth into it.

As far as dies, if I can open a bore, I can open a die also. Loading for it wouldn't be my concern.
i have over 35 years in the automotive trades as a technician and can tell you working on cars is much different than machining parts on firearms. the tolerances on a lathe that's used for automotive work and one used to machine parts for a firearm are much more critical. much more critical and less room for variance.

just get and OEM barrel and have it installed. the rifle was free, so you would be out the cost of a barrel and a gunsmith to install it. much cheaper and safer in the long run.
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:58 PM   #10
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Where are you located alucas? Cuz I know at least ome good smith in almost every state. I know several in mo. Myself included. The cost for a smith to do it is varied on the smith.

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