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Old 03-23-2013, 12:08 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by JTJ View Post
From what I can see, the cartridge is not fully seated. Tula is very dirty and it is probably jammed up on crud in the chamber. Tapping it with a mallet could make the situation worse. I would leave the mag out and clamp the pistol with the barrel straight up. Pour a solvent down the barrel to break up the crud. The barrel is probably pretty well sealed at this point and when it starts draining off the round should release.
The first 7 rounds were Hornady personal defense high quality stuff. This is the first round of Tula, which couldn't even make it into a closed chamber to fire.
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Old 03-23-2013, 12:10 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Tackleberry1 View Post
If the claw is in the groove then and the magazine is out the remaining options are...

1. This round of Tula has an improper case length or the round is not seated deeply enough to allow the chamber to close.

2. Gunk is preventing the round from fully seating... but I though you said this was the last round of the 1st mag? Doubt 7 rounds... even 7 rounds of Tula would "dirty" it up that quickly.

3. The "last" round you fired before the malfunction was a "squib" round and it's lodged in the barrels entrance eliminating enough head space to prevent the 8th round from fully chambering.

Squibs occur when the powder charge is too light or is not there in a specific cartridge. The expanding gas from the detonation of the primer alone is often "enough" pressure to lodge the round in the barrel "and" cycle the weapon. In military jargon this in knows as a "pop no kick" due to the lack of muzzle report and lighter than normal recoil. Soldiers are trained to watch for it and it is the cause of MANY catastrophic failures. If this happened, you are very luck that the round did not lodge deep "enough" to allow the 8th round to fully seat because pulling the trigger again would have resulted in a Ka-Boom.

Test this with a wooden dowel. First lay it along side the barrel and mark the barrels length from the crown to the end of the chamber. Then insert it into the barrel "keeping hand clear of the muzzle".

If the rod does not insert fully to the chamber mark, you have a squib lodged in the barrel and "definitely" need a gun smith to go any further.

If there is no squib, lube the crap out of it, wedge the slide against a wooded table or work bench "keeping the muzzle and guide rod clear" and shove down hard.

Tack
I measured to see if it was a squib and it is not.

First seven were Hornady so I doubt fouling is the issue.

So that leaves improper case length, I think.
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Old 03-23-2013, 12:17 AM   #23
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I only used Tula one time. The quality was so bad I never bought any again. I would still go with a solvent or penetrating oil to loosen it up. Possibly some break free. I think that would be the least chance of incurring permanent damage.

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Old 03-23-2013, 12:28 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by JTJ View Post
I only used Tula one time. The quality was so bad I never bought any again. I would still go with a solvent or penetrating oil to loosen it up. Possibly some break free. I thin that would be the least chance of incurring permanent damage.
I don't use tula ammo because I reload. I try to buy brass whenever I can.
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Old 03-23-2013, 12:43 AM   #25
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Damn, I've got a couple hundred rds of Tula. N

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Old 03-23-2013, 12:49 AM   #26
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I have shot a **** load of all types of 9mm ammo through my P226. I have had one misfire. It was a Russian steel casing. Not sure on the brand though. I was just buying cheap stuff for drills. Use high quality brass casings if you value your life!

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Old 03-23-2013, 01:25 AM   #27
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I have 2 boxes of Tula 9mm that I bought with my SIG P229 and I won't even try firing it at all. Anyone want to buy them?

I would take the pistol to a smith and get it done right.

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Old 03-23-2013, 01:41 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lyricd View Post
I measured to see if it was a squib and it is not.

First seven were Hornady so I doubt fouling is the issue.

So that leaves improper case length, I think.
So load the barrel with lubricant and let it sit upright overnight. See if you can break it free in the morning...

Note: When you do clear it please take a pic of the jammed round next to an "never chambered" round and post it.

I'm betting the jammed round is seated much shallower than it should be.

Tack
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:29 AM   #29
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If it was me I would be on the phone to S&W bright and early next business day. Ask them how to clear it, and be prepared to send them pics. Obviously you can't send it back to them as it is, but they of all people may have seen this problem before. Until then, lock it up in a case and put it where it can't be reached.

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Old 03-23-2013, 09:36 AM   #30
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Just for the halibut, check your laser screws and see if they are all tight. Remember, there is a live round in there. Be safe!

There seems to be a trend on this gun for the laser screws to work loose effectively jamming the weapon. It has also been known to cause live round stovepipes. Again, S&W may be better able to help you.

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