You asked, do yourself and your gun a favor and go here:
Originally Posted by maddog45
I just purchased my first 1911-SA Mil Spec .45. Took it out last night and for the most part it performed well. I had 3 failure to feed stopages while shooting about 150 rnds. B4 I took it out I cleaned and oiled the gun. I experienced this with 2 different mags(ones that came with the gun). The ammo was magtech 230grn. FMJ. Is this something that can be "fixed" easily or is it a gunsmith issue. I had read somewhere that just shooting will most likely fix FTF issues with this gun. Opinions please.
Tripp Research Cobra Mags
and buy one Cobra mag. A 7R-45-WG if you want a 7 rd, a 8R-45-RG if you want a 8 rd or a 10R-45-RG should you want a 10 rd. Just do it and you will never look back! These are the finest 1911 .45 ACP mags in the world! Bar none!
Should you disagree that they are not the best mags;
- Call (432) 837-9445 ask for Sherry Arron, tell her canebrake told you to request a refund.
- Call (432) 837-9445 ask for Virgil Tripp, tell him what your issues are with his mag and request he resolve the problem
- PM me and I will buy your mag and pay you what you have invested plus the shipping to me.
Cane’s 1911 church service:
It's new, whop it's a$$ for at least 500 more rds!
(IMHO, it's still new @ 1K rds.)
DO NOT attempt to make any major changes until you sort out your break-in issues. You could inadvertently void your warranty!
Every time you take her out and run rds downrange, bring her home and strip her down to the maximum level you are comfortable with. Keep the manual’s exploded schematic on the bench each time you take her apart, I do! Go further each time until you can completely strip the 1911. This would exclude the following; sights, plunger tube (but remove the plunger and spring for cleaning), grip bushings, ejector and pin, [hammer-strut-pin assembly, barrel-link-pin assembly. (Do not spray these assemblies with brake cleaner or wash with water/soap)] The MSH and soiled mags should be wiped down but only stripped and deep-cleaned periodically.
Clean the barrel with a good copper/lead remover of your choice. I like Hoppe's #9 semi-auto solvent.
If the slide is completely stripped of all parts (leave the sights) get a can of brake cleaner, screen mesh strainer and a bucket. Spray the parts down in the bucket (small parts in the strainer) with the cleaner, at minimum wash the slide and barrel with water and two drops of dish soap. Immediately dry (blow off if you have shop air or computer dust-off can) all washed parts and lightly spray with Rem oil or other protector/water displacer like WD40 (get some Rem oil!)
Q-tips are the perfect 1911 cleaning tool for things like the FP chamber, extractor cylinder, slide rails, FP stop channels and any other small places hard to reach. Use them up and until they finish clean, keep going back with a new one!
Insure ALL parts are completely covered with CLP (Cleaner, Lubricant and Preservative) and start the assembly.
DO NOT OVER LUBE!
This is the worst thing you can do not to mention wasting money. If your parts are clean, dry and LIGHTLY
sprayed with CLP, the only other lube you will need is a FEW
drops on the slide rails. I like mil-comm 2500, a synthetic oil or good old Rem-oil. BE STINGY! MORE IS NOT BETTER!
Oh yea....did I mention not to overdo the lube!
Rack the slide several times (by hand, never let it slam to battery sans ammo!) and wipe the lube seep near the hammer.
Final touch, take your silicon rag and wipe the entire gun down and store it in its rug without touching the gun’s surface.
If you carry load, safe and final wipe before putting her in your holster.
This routine will provide you with a reliable and always ready weapon.
Do the following:
- Formulate and execute a cleaning process with extreme prejudice post any soiling.
- During this ‘new firearm’ break-in period, take advantage of frequent cleanings to familiarize yourself with the function of the action.
- Frequent disassembly provides you the opportunity to inspect the parts for excessive wear, stress fractures and overall condition.
This builds confidence in your weapon and your ability to correct any malfunction that may very well save your life someday!
I laugh at those that say, "I won’t carry a gun that isn’t reliable!"
Translation: "I don’t need to practice jams and hardware malfunctions because my gun is 100% reliable!"
Guess when that gun will experience its first malfunction? Guess who won’t have a clue what to do?
If you are going to carry a gun for PD, you had better be able to completely strip it, IN THE DARK with the radio blaring to the point that you can't hear the tactile clicks
, to repair any problems short of broken parts!
Congrats on your 1911 acquisition, welcome to THE
and be safe out there!