I just purchased my first 1911-SA Mil Spec .45. Took it out last night and for the most part it performed well. I had 3 failure to feed stopages while shooting about 150 rnds. B4 I took it out I cleaned and oiled the gun. I experienced this with 2 different mags(ones that came with the gun). The ammo was magtech 230grn. FMJ. Is this something that can be "fixed" easily or is it a gunsmith issue. I had read somewhere that just shooting will most likely fix FTF issues with this gun. Opinions please.
I assume that this is a new/previously unfired pistol? If it is, a few FTF's are not all that unusual. FTF's can also sometimes be caused by magazines. I had a Springfield Mil Spec and the factory mags were crummy. I replaced them with Chip McCormick magazines and never had another issue.
Sometimes the feedramp is a bit scuffed or otherwise not completely smooth. That can also be a cause of FTF's. So check the feedramp for blemishes or scoring. Polishing the feedramp will help, even if it doesn't have nicks or blems.
There are many opinions about lubrication as well, but I run my 1911's wet. It works for me.
My suggestion would be to clean it well, lube the heck out of it and go put several hundred more rounds through it and see how it runs.
Congratulations and enjoy your pistol. 1911's are habit forming. ;)
Thanks CA357. I do run all my guns wet. I'll try the mag you recommended. :)
I've got some pretty expensive mags from over the years and most give excellent service. However, I don't know if they're really worth the price.
Keep us posted.
Tripp Research Cobra Mags
and buy one Cobra mag. A 7R-45-WG if you want a 7 rd, a 8R-45-RG if you want a 8 rd or a 10R-45-RG should you want a 10 rd. Just do it and you will never look back! These are the finest 1911 .45 ACP mags in the world! Bar none!
Should you disagree that they are not the best mags;
You asked! http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...12twocents.gif
Caneís 1911 church service:
It's new, whop it's a$$ for at least 500 more rds! (IMHO, it's still new @ 1K rds.)
DO NOT attempt to make any major changes until you sort out your break-in issues. You could inadvertently void your warranty!
Every time you take her out and run rds downrange, bring her home and strip her down to the maximum level you are comfortable with. Keep the manualís exploded schematic on the bench each time you take her apart, I do! Go further each time until you can completely strip the 1911. This would exclude the following; sights, plunger tube (but remove the plunger and spring for cleaning), grip bushings, ejector and pin, [hammer-strut-pin assembly, barrel-link-pin assembly. (Do not spray these assemblies with brake cleaner or wash with water/soap)] The MSH and soiled mags should be wiped down but only stripped and deep-cleaned periodically.
Clean the barrel with a good copper/lead remover of your choice. I like Hoppe's #9 semi-auto solvent.
If the slide is completely stripped of all parts (leave the sights) get a can of brake cleaner, screen mesh strainer and a bucket. Spray the parts down in the bucket (small parts in the strainer) with the cleaner, at minimum wash the slide and barrel with water and two drops of dish soap. Immediately dry (blow off if you have shop air or computer dust-off can) all washed parts and lightly spray with Rem oil or other protector/water displacer like WD40 (get some Rem oil!)
Q-tips are the perfect 1911 cleaning tool for things like the FP chamber, extractor cylinder, slide rails, FP stop channels and any other small places hard to reach. Use them up and until they finish clean, keep going back with a new one!
Insure ALL parts are completely covered with CLP (Cleaner, Lubricant and Preservative) and start the assembly.
DO NOT OVER LUBE! This is the worst thing you can do not to mention wasting money. If your parts are clean, dry and LIGHTLY sprayed with CLP, the only other lube you will need is a FEW drops on the slide rails. I like mil-comm 2500, a synthetic oil or good old Rem-oil. BE STINGY! MORE IS NOT BETTER!
Oh yea....did I mention not to overdo the lube!
Rack the slide several times (by hand, never let it slam to battery sans ammo!) and wipe the lube seep near the hammer.
Final touch, take your silicon rag and wipe the entire gun down and store it in its rug without touching the gunís surface.
If you carry load, safe and final wipe before putting her in your holster.
This routine will provide you with a reliable and always ready weapon.
Do the following:
I laugh at those that say, "I wonít carry a gun that isnít reliable!"
Translation: "I donít need to practice jams and hardware malfunctions because my gun is 100% reliable!"
Guess when that gun will experience its first malfunction? Guess who wonít have a clue what to do?
If you are going to carry a gun for PD, you had better be able to completely strip it, IN THE DARK with the radio blaring to the point that you can't hear the tactile clicks, to repair any problems short of broken parts!
Congrats on your 1911 acquisition, welcome to THE fraternity Attachment 2556 and be safe out there! http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...ons/cowboy.gif
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