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Old 03-05-2012, 04:08 PM   #1
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Default Help With my S&W .32 Safety Hammerless 1st Model

Im having some timing issues I just cant seem to figure out...
If you pull the trigger real slow and controlled the cylinder and barrel line up fine, but if you pull the trigger quickly the cylinder turns too much.. It will skip the chamber thats suppose to line up, but not quite make it to the next one...

My next issue is the firing pin strikes too early.. no matter how you pull the trigger, the firing pin hits the round on the edge of the rim BEFORE the bullet/chamber lines up with the barrel. It hits consistently in the same exact spot on the rim every time.

I was told more than likely, grime or a worn part would cause this, but Ive cleaned this gun a dozen times, and none of the parts look very worn.. The internals still have all the bluing on them....

Heres a pic of where the firing pin keeps hitting.. The "X" is the center of the round and the dot is where the pin hits... The cylinder turns in a clockwise rotation..

107_5823.jpg  
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:43 PM   #2
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Best take it to a smith, but if you want to pittle with it, take the screw out that holds the barrel on and be carful not to loose the cam and cam bearing that the screw goes through. Unscrew the ejector and be careful not to loose the spring that's inside the cyclinder. Asuming the hand is not worn out start looking for a new ejector. You can use the same cam and cyclinder back. The ejector operates the timing off of the hand. Parts are hard to find, but they are out there. Before I did anything, I would take it to a good smith and ask him if it was to wornout to restore. They are easy to work on, but some times I just break it up into parts and maybe use them later. I have a few parts but there are so many different models you would have to match the part by hand to see if it's the right one. Good luck

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Old 03-05-2012, 05:11 PM   #3
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Ive tried to take it to a smith, but not a single one in town will even look at it... They all tell me its to old and they wont touch it... How can the parts be worn out if there still covered in bluing? Wouldnt the bluing wear off?

Im temped to "part it out" but I cant bring myself to do it...

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Old 03-05-2012, 06:07 PM   #4
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1. You are assuming that all parts are orginal, and that no one ever replaced a part before you.

2. With top breaks, open the action, cock hammer, and look at the tip of the hand. Many times those guns got closed while cocked- and the edge of the cylinder would hit the tip of the hand, dinging it. Results in not turning cylinder enough. Fix is to remove hand, hammer back into shape, reharden- OR replace hand- which usually requires being fitted. If someone dropped in a replacement hand, and did not fit it, will screw up timing.

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Old 03-05-2012, 09:47 PM   #5
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Problem could be in the sear/hammer/trigger not the hand/ratchet. I would suggest that you put it in a bag and the next time your up my way stop by and I'll give you $25 for it(just to help you out).

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Old 03-05-2012, 11:27 PM   #6
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David Chicoine has s couple of gun repair manuals in print that has this revolver broken down and reassembled in it. There is a lot of info on this revolver discussed. I have one in the shop at the present waiting on a split spring and hand spring. Jack First has pays for this revolver sometimes called a lemon squeezers or bicycle gun. I may have spelt his name wrong. Sorry if I did.

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Old 03-05-2012, 11:29 PM   #7
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Parts not pays LOL. Spell checker problem

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Old 03-06-2012, 06:33 PM   #8
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Thanks for the help... I think it may have to do with the hand spring I made.. It appears to be too strong and not long enough.. It looks like the spring is "slinging" the cylinder, making it turn too much when you quickly pull the trigger, and it seems to be slighty short, releasing the hammer too soon..

Everything else looks to be in great condition and original, So I guess the search for a hand spring continues....

@ Vagunsmith
I looked at the Jack First site, but said you need the part #.. I seen your looking for the same part, and wondering do you have the #? What was the price they quoted you? Have they even found it?

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Old 03-07-2012, 08:25 AM   #9
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I will send you the part number this afternoon. But first I need the serial number of your 32. I would take a look it the cylinder stop and split spring

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Old 03-08-2012, 04:34 AM   #10
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It doesnt matter anymore... It turned into a Arisaka...

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