Heat Treatment and Finish - AK47


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Old 10-01-2012, 12:43 AM   #1
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Default Heat Treatment and Finish - AK47

Hey, I was curious if there was anyone out there who has built their own AKs from a flat or prebent receiver.

I was curious if anyone knows how they typically heat treat and coat normal AK-47 receivers like they do in Russia. I know I've been doing a ton of research on the subject and it seems like a lot of the info is either incomplete or just not out there.

More specifically I would like to know the process of the heat-treating itself because I know it's a process of heating it, then heating it higher, and then doing a tempering process. I have no details of what the temperatures are.

I also have no idea what kind of coating they do for a finish, maybe parkerization, maybe something else.

Any and all information on how to heat treat and finish an AK receiver would be much appreciated.

Thanks all ^_^



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Old 10-02-2012, 12:16 AM   #2
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I also forgot, if anybody knows the hardness that it's supposed to be at for the metal, that would help as well.



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Old 10-02-2012, 12:51 AM   #3
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There is some device that assists with heat treating.

Going by eye and judging by color of the metal can be very inaccurate.

Ask us boys with 1903 Springfields with early serial numbers. The rifle is unsafe to shoot due to the metal being too brittle or too soft because of "eye-balling" the color to get to the correct temperature.

If you do not know the specs required, I would not recommend doing it.

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Old 10-05-2012, 04:26 AM   #4
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That's why I was curious if there was someone experienced enough to know those kind of details, or if they know any place to go find out that info.

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Old 10-06-2012, 05:25 AM   #5
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I'm sorry to bump this repeatedly, but I can't think that there isn't someone out there who knows how to do this or who at least knows where to go for that info.

I know that is a process of heating and cooling and reheating, but the specifics I'm lacking on.

I think I'm going to skip the finishing process and just Cerakote it, because it would look the same, but be 10x more durable.

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Old 10-07-2012, 02:11 PM   #6
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I heat treat steel for my job. It depends on what type of steel you are trying to harden, some you bake to 1500 f, some 1800 f (bright orange). Then cool quickly to 150 f, in oil water, or air, depending on steel type. This makes steel hard enough to break if dropped.

To temper,bake again at 300-1200, again depending on steel type and desired hardness. Higher tempering temperatures soften the steel

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Old 10-20-2012, 05:29 AM   #7
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Well, the steel I'm using is from these guys: http://ak-builder.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=30336

However, that doesn't really answer the question of what type of steel, hopefully someone knows. :P

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Old 11-21-2012, 02:56 PM   #8
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I just signed up on this site to reply here. I've been searching for similar info and found this youtube vid that's particularly helpful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyQsSv8KX0g

As for finish, I really like the looks of cold rust bluing, but even a crappy paint job looks at home on an AK.

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Old 11-29-2012, 10:53 PM   #9
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I've been on a couple of AK sites and the guys that are building them only heat treat the holes and area that take some abuse. There are some that are using Kasenite to surface harden. There are a few that send them off to be heat treated.

Here's a couple of sites:

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/
http://www.theakforum.net/phpBB3/

Bobg

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Old 12-18-2012, 11:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregTheHun
I'm sorry to bump this repeatedly, but I can't think that there isn't someone out there who knows how to do this or who at least knows where to go for that info.

I know that is a process of heating and cooling and reheating, but the specifics I'm lacking on.

I think I'm going to skip the finishing process and just Cerakote it, because it would look the same, but be 10x more durable.
I have built multiple ak parts kits and for my recievers I heat them with a rose bud torch until cherry red them dip in quenching oil. Repeat process one more time to achieve around 35-40 Rockwell. Then bead blast to prep for duracoat. Less than 2hrs


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