Gun stock protection with wood hardener?
I have been given a B.S.A. 303 to fix up as a gift and have encountered a situation that requires some help. As a machinist for many years, I have been asked to repair metal gun parts many times, but not many stocks. The carpenter in town usually did these, but has left.
These Lee-Speed rifles had a fore stock with some kind of metal end cap to protect the end grain. It is missing and there wasn't much there to attach another one, so I was asked to just round the end to make it aesthetically pleasing. The end grain however looks "iffy". I recall my carpenter friend, in a similar situation, once telling me he used MinWax Wood Hardener to protect the end grain from deteriorating. I have some hardener, but am not sure how to proceed. Do I soak it before I sand it or after? Once done, will it take a water-based stain or do I stain everything first? I would appreciate any response and will strive to answer any questions. Thank you kindly!
We would probably fabricate a new metal cap.
Could write a novel on the uses for epoxy(we build high perf recurves/longbows),but the way I read your post(and could be wrong)it sounds like a "quick-fix".The amt of time it would take us to completely inject or bag the stock to get the epoxy down into CLEAN pores......and then deal with the finish,well........I could've had the steel endcap fabricated and cold blued.
Look into Duponts(Remington),RKW finish.Not suggesting that for your application,but it goes hand in hand with certain stock/wood epoxy fixes.
Thanks for your response. I had planned on using water based walnut stain and finish with Tru-Oil. If I try to screw an end cap on, I don't think the screws will hold. I think if I can set it up vertically and drill deep enough, I may be able to epoxy in a couple of screw threads to strengthen the whole front end. If so, I may be able to "lock-tite" an end cap to the protrusions and have no visible screws. I have a small piece of aluminum plate I could use and anodize it. Of course I will have to get the fit just right, but that should be no problem. I HATE wood...that's why I became a machinist!
If its just a flat pce of metal....then I mis-understood.Was thinking a cap like a Marlin lever.Where its a 3 dimensional affair.
If you hate wood....and I understand....start focusing your attention on the transition from wood to metal.Uhhh,it happens alot on guns,haha.Try some experiments with Heli-coils(threaded inserts).Most woods will "tap"....theres some difference in real soft woods,but that isn't a problem with quality gunstocks.
You'll have to play with the clearance holes for tapping.And you won't use lubricant...use air,keep a steady(bout 40 lbs)blast directed at hole during tapping.....otherwise its the same as metal.backing tap out to clear chips and such.
The problem with old gunstocks is more often than not,they're "oil rotten".You'll either have to go "deep"....or go,big(helicoil).The use of chemicals for cleaning wood is sort of subjective?But the major failing is very similar to auto body prep work.You use W/G(wax and grease)remover....BUT!!!!...if you don't wipe it off(with clean rag)whilst wet,you're just spinnin your wheels.Its the same with gunstocks.......you put the chemical on(acetone,W/G remover,ect.ect.)but then it just sits there.All you're doing is "moving the muck around".It never really gets removed.
Going deep with fastener is fine as long as its getting away from the problem.Riflestocks are relatively long and narrow.......so thats where "big" comes in.You're trying to get as much surface bite as possible.Its also easier to get the stock "clean-ish",closest to the surface.
Good luck,sounds like you're studyin the problem and will come up with a VG fix.
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