Exterior Rust Removal & Refinishing a Barrel - Page 2
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Old 09-30-2009, 04:42 AM   #11
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Tim, is that the blue liquid stuff that Brownells sells? It says it will remove rust and grease as well. I can't afford the $200.+ the local gunsmith would charge to reblue it.

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Old 09-30-2009, 05:09 AM   #12
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Tim, is that the blue liquid stuff that Brownells sells? It says it will remove rust and grease as well. I can't afford the $200.+ the local gunsmith would charge to reblue it.
Yes it is. You can get it from several different places, including Cabelas, if you have one nearby. I've used it with really nice results by first wiping the bare steel with a very lightly oiled rag ( I used Kroil), then using a piece of 0000 steel wool as an applicator. I heated all parts with a heat-gun before application as well, after making one swipe with a dry cloth. Oxho-Blue seems to work best with a bit of oil on the surface, but you will have to use several applications, polishing with steel wool between coats.
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:01 PM   #13
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The blueing is already ruined. The dumbass kids scratched the hell out of the barrel and they rubbed lengthwise rather than around the barrel.

So, I guess I'll paint it. RL, does the AlumaHyde work on steel as well? I am also thinking of Gun-Kote, but I don't know how I can get the barrel & receiver into the oven to cure it.

Aluma Hyde II works on steel, fiberglass, wood, and aluminum. Remove the rust and you're good to go - no priming as it is self-priming. Personally, on a nice gun like the Enfield I would check out parkerizing or bluing. I believe naval jelly which you can get at Home Depot or Lowes, will remove rust and bluing as a prep to re-bluing. This would eliminate a lot of elbow grease, which is the only PITA when rebluing.
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Old 09-30-2009, 01:15 PM   #14
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Toolman is right-Oxpho-Blue from Brownells is the best I've ever tried in the way of cold blue. BROWNELLS : BROWNELLS : OXPHO-BLUE® - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools



To remove the bluing use rust/blue remover, also available from Brownells.
BROWNELLS : BIRCHWOOD CASEY : Blue & Rust Remover (167-006-100) - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

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Old 09-30-2009, 02:09 PM   #15
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I would stay away from the oxpho blue liquid. I found that the liquid works great for bluing small parts like barrel bands and screws.

For the barrel here is what I do.

Materials needed:

1. Brownells Oxpho blue cream.
2. Laytex or nitril gloves box of 250 (Try to use nitril)
3. CRC break clean or 90% rubbing alcohol.
4. 0000 steelwool
5. emery cloth or sand paper in desired grit.

If pitting is deep I will draw file ( I try to avoid this because I am not that good at it).

After that I switch to 100 grit emery cloth or sand paper and clamp the barre in a padded vice and working around the barrel I remove all the old finish. Depending on how polished you want the barrel to look depends on what grit you stop at. For a more mate finish I will stop at 150 grip or 180 grit. For a smoother more polished look I will go to 320 grit If you want a nice high polish go to 600 or 1000 grit. This takes for ever though.

once all blue is removed I clean and let dry with break clean (careful with gloves and any plastic in area).

If it is a nice hot day let barrel stand in sun for an hour or two to heat it up. If you want you can also use wifes (OLD) hairdryer. to heat the metal a little.

Now degrease your steel wool with break clean.

Once it drys replace gloves with fresh pair and open oxpho-blue cream and place a liberal dab on steel wool and start rubbing for 2 to 5 minutes. Keep repeating this step until you get a nice deep blue finish it will take at least 10 to 15 times of adding blue to the barrel and rubbing it in. NOTE: use little to NO pressure in this step. Just rub it around like you are rubbing lotion on a hot young ladies back.

Once you get it to the color you like. Let barrel sit fore 10 to 60 minutes then clean off and rub down with remoil or another form of gun oil. this helps protect the metal and stops the blue from reacting to the metal.

I will add pics after I get home tonight.

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Old 09-30-2009, 03:18 PM   #16
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Wow! Thanks for all the help guys. I guess I could try one of the cold blues. If it turns out poorly, I can always go for the paint option later.

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Old 09-30-2009, 03:50 PM   #17
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We do have a member that does hot bluing for $85 + shipping to his shop here in VA. I forget his name

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Old 09-30-2009, 04:05 PM   #18
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If you think of it, let me know. I may be able to swing that.

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Old 09-30-2009, 08:36 PM   #19
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Follow-up: I just bought a container of Naval Jelly(phosphoric acid) at Home Depot and removed the bluing from an old Mossberg .410 barrel. It worked very well and very quickly. It costs $3.79 for an 8oz container which is enough to do many guns. Brush it on and keep it wet for about 10-12 minutes then use steel wool or scotch brite pads to thoroughly remove the bluing. Rinse with water and then clean with alcohol. Use latex or nitrile gloves to protect your skin and to keep finger oils off the steel.

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Old 09-30-2009, 10:12 PM   #20
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I just now ordered Oxpho Blue cream, Birchwood Casey Blue & Rust Remover and a small bottle of Tru-Oil from Brownells.

So now the impatient toe tapping dance begins. I'm on hold until the Pachmayr recoil pad and the Brownells order comes in.

I was going to just do a boiled Linseed Oil finish, but I want to try out the Tru-Oil this time around.

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