Exterior Rust Removal & Refinishing a Barrel
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:20 PM   #1
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Default Exterior Rust Removal & Refinishing a Barrel

My 1917 has quite a bit of rust on the exterior of the barrel. Some bad pitting has occured as well. The barrel has a beautiful deep blue in some places, but the rusted areas make it look like a POS.

I'd like some suggestions for removing the rust and what I should do to refinish it. I'm thinking that I should do something to pretty it up a bit.

I must stipulate that I paid $199. for the rifle and I don't want to spend a fortune redoing it. My local gunsmith charges $200. + to reblue a rifle, so that doesn't make economic sense to me. I want to redo all of the metal.

I have a Model 37 that was Duracoated matte black that turned out okay, so Duracoat is one option. In the interest of a low buck project, I'm even thinking of Rustoleum or barbecue/engine paint.

I may be able to have a friend parkerize it, but I'm not sure about that. I have also considered buying a basic/starter Parkerizing kit for around fifty bucks from Brownells and trying that, but I don't know what I could use for a stainless container long enough to fit the assembled barrel and receiver. So that leads me back to Duracoat or maybe paint.

So gents, what do you think? The solution must be economical as I can't afford a big buck restoration. I just want it to look good. It will be a field rifle, so the finish needs to be tough.

The project includes shortening and refinishing the stock as well. The project details are here: http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f35/1917-eddystone-project-18556/

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Old 09-29-2009, 09:13 PM   #2
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The only thing for the rust is some fine steel wool oiled...A.H

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Old 09-29-2009, 09:57 PM   #3
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Cotton cloth, light oil. Rub until the cloth gets saturated with rust, then move to a clean section of cloth. Old white sox do well. Repeat until arm falls off at shoulder/elbow. It will get rid of rust with minimal damage to bluing.

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Old 09-29-2009, 10:02 PM   #4
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The dopey kids at the gun shop used steel wool on some of the rust, so not only does it have rust, but it's scratched and the blueing is gone in some areas.

Dumbasses...

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Old 09-30-2009, 01:49 AM   #5
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The dopey kids at the gun shop used steel wool on some of the rust, so not only does it have rust, but it's scratched and the blueing is gone in some areas.

Dumbasses...
I also have a 1950's vintage Ithaca Model 37 that I want to refinish, so I bought the Blue Wonder Gun Blue kit. It costs $20 and is enough for 1 gun. It contains a 1oz. tube of Gun Cleaner which they claim can be used for the bore as well as to remove rust from a blued barrel, a tube of Gun Blue, and a Developer. They say to apply the Cleaner with 0000 steel wool and wipe it off with a clean cloth, then apply oil. I wish to remove ALL the old bluing, and I know there is a chemical available which will do this. I will check Brownells. I have used 0000 steel wool, scotch brite pads, and 400 - 600 grit emery cloth in the past with good results. As long as you use a twisting motion on the barrel (all barrels are turned on a lathe) and do not rub lengthwise, you won't get any noticeable scratching after the gun is blued. I did this once already on my Mod.37 but used Birchwood Casey cold bluing, which came out blotchy - I don't want to take the emery cloth to the engraved receiver a second time, so I need to find a chemical remover. For cheap guns, as a bluing alternative, I have used Brownells Matte Black Aluma-Hyde II with excellent results. It's epoxy based (much more durable than any paint), impervious to gun cleaning solvents, and holds up very well to normal handling.
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Old 09-30-2009, 02:06 AM   #6
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Cotton cloth, light oil. Rub until the cloth gets saturated with rust, then move to a clean section of cloth. Old white sox do well. Repeat until arm falls off at shoulder/elbow. It will get rid of rust with minimal damage to bluing.
This works^^^ I use PB Blaster like this on an old sock or t-shirt. Removes surface rust and even rust down in the pitting. Doesn't damage bluing.
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Old 09-30-2009, 03:32 AM   #7
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RB-17 and 0000 steel wool works wonders on rust without harming any existing bluing if used correctly. the RB-17 is a gel that will stay in place and is safe for extended use on barrels. I've also used automatic trans. fluid with steel wool, but it's not as good as RB-17. you can also use JB Bore Brite on a felt or cotten pad, but it will remove the bluing unless you're really careful and observant.

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Old 09-30-2009, 03:57 AM   #8
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The blueing is already ruined. The dumbass kids scratched the hell out of the barrel and they rubbed lengthwise rather than around the barrel.

So, I guess I'll paint it. RL, does the AlumaHyde work on steel as well? I am also thinking of Gun-Kote, but I don't know how I can get the barrel & receiver into the oven to cure it.

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Old 09-30-2009, 04:02 AM   #9
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I was going to post a similar thread but this one should suffice. I had a similar problem with the High Standard Riot shotgun i bought last week for 100 bucks, it had some ugly rust on the barrel, and some deep pitting all around. I went at it like killing snakes and just sanded off all the finish with a drywall sanding block, but scotch brite pads worked well on the curved areas and in some hard to reach areas. If you want to get rid off all the blue and get down to bare metal just go with the foam blocks with abrasive on the outsides.

So now i have a bare metal shotgun and its too ugly to just polish up because of some deep pitting that would take too much metal away to get rid of. i was looking at KG gun kote on midway, flat black would look good but i might go with flat dark earth just to have something unique. Do you guys have much experience using the gun kote? Will it fill in the pitting?

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Old 09-30-2009, 04:15 AM   #10
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The blueing is already ruined. The dumbass kids scratched the hell out of the barrel and they rubbed lengthwise rather than around the barrel.
Before you give up on a nice blued finish, clamp the receiver in a well-padded vise where you can access the barrel easily and use emery cloth in a shoeshine motion to remove the scratches. If they're deep, I'd start with 400 grit, progress to 600 grit. If a really shiny finish is desired, flip it over and use the cloth backing and JB Bore-Brite to polish it, then progress to a chamois strip with JB Bore Shine, unless you have a buffer and the appropriate polishing compounds available. Once you get the metal finish you want, you can use Brownells Oxpho Blue or send it out to be reblued for a nominal fee. The Oxpho-Blue works well but won't be as durable as a hot or rust-blue job.
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