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Old 01-23-2014, 08:31 PM   #11
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Either way the system is designed to include a round in the equation. You are putting added stress on the system.

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Old 01-24-2014, 12:25 AM   #12
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I would be more concerned about inserting a round directly into the chamber and let the slide slam shut on it. (1911 specific? dont know).

The extractor shapes are often designed to catch a round coming out of magazine into battery, not slamming over the rim.

I don't hesitate to dry fire.
I will also perform an empty chamber slide release, I just don't do it alot.

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Old 01-24-2014, 12:59 AM   #13
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Slide release on empty is okay, just need to remember to pull it back first, then lower the slide stop. Depressing the stop under the recoil spring pressure is not good for it when done a lot.
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Old 01-24-2014, 02:21 AM   #14
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Most semi autos are designed to feed from the magazine.
Most snap caps will feed from the magazine.

Having the extractor slam over the casing rim creates jobs for gunsmiths.
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Old 01-24-2014, 03:20 PM   #15
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Yea, you see why I am a bit confused. Not rimfire for sure, I know firing pin damage there. And not older guns, modern center fire. My take on it is; Dry firing can hasten wear on the firing mechanism, but will not do it per se. Same with slide release without ammo, though it CAN cause some wear, and faster than normal use, it does't cause its own damage, just makes wear in those areas happen faster. But again, that was my impression to start with. Thats why I tend to ask gun smith types if anyone has seen damage caused by these acts alone.
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:58 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renoboyd View Post
Thats why I tend to ask gun smith types if anyone has seen damage caused by these acts alone.
Just remember the sample they have for a frame of reference.

They see the broken ones, They don't see the millions that have suffered no damage.

I think they may well be versed in which models are the worst for this type of repain.
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Old 01-25-2014, 05:08 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KG7IL View Post
Just remember the sample they have for a frame of reference.

They see the broken ones, They don't see the millions that have suffered no damage.

I think they may well be versed in which models are the worst for this type of repain.
So, is there a model that damage may be more apt for (aka 1911's or something>?)
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Old 01-25-2014, 05:16 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KG7IL View Post
Just remember the sample they have for a frame of reference.

They see the broken ones, They don't see the millions that have suffered no damage.

I think they may well be versed in which models are the worst for this type of repain.
Honestly, not a gunsmith, only a certified armorer. That's how I was taught. I absolutely don't insist on having the last word, I only offer what I know or believe to be true.
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Old 02-09-2014, 01:32 AM   #19
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Dry firing a semi auto won't hurt the weapon any more than dry chambering will. I'm a gunsmith and we all dry fire weapons to safely check for proper function. If you worry about hurting the weapon or dry fire a lot, buy yourself some dummy rounds. Your not going to hurt the weapon unless it's parts are old and week. If the parts fail, they were going to fail anyway.
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:15 PM   #20
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Hey, thanks everyone.
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