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-   -   Cylinder Honing (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f33/cylinder-honing-38910/)

Ruzai 02-24-2011 08:45 AM

Cylinder Honing
 
My mother's Rossi 357 Mag is a great gun except for the fact that the fired cases dont drop free from the gun. Even with several sharp presses with the ejector rod they still have to be removed most often buy hand. The chambers are cleaned after every shooting session and there is no carbon build up but the chambers look extremely rough so I figured polishing/honing was in order. I know about the Flex-Hone and Flex-Hone-Oil stuff from Brownells which was my first but fairly pricey idea of a fix. But if I can do it just as good or better for cheaper I'd like to.

What do you think the best way to go about it might be?

danf_fl 02-24-2011 11:35 AM

How does it do with unfired rounds? A casing expands to fill the chamber when the round is fired to form a seal so gases do not escape backwards.

Any caliber casing will not "drop free" on fired rounds. If that were the case, there would not be the need for an extractor on revolvers.

I would only hone the cylinders if there was exceptional force required to extract the fired casings. I have seen cases where people have honed the cylinders too much (beginners) and they started having split casings.

You may want to have a Qualified gunsmith check your revolver if the casings are sticking too much.

c3shooter 02-24-2011 12:56 PM

PLEASE STEP AWAY FROM THE POWER TOOLS.

Go find a product called JB Bore Paste. It is a very fine abrasive in a clay type base (like lipstick). Old bore brush, wrapped in a patch, coated with JB, chucked in a drill. Insert brush, spin for 30-60 seconds at moderate speed. After doing all chambers, thoroughly clean, and try again.

Ruzai 02-24-2011 10:53 PM

This particular model doesnt have a full length extractor star length, it only moves the fires cases about 65-70% of the way out of the chamber with 357 Magnums. I have to actually remove each fired case from the chamber by hand even after using the extractor star, and the machining of the chambers is far from Smith and Wesson quality (doesnt look like there was a finishing reamer used), so I'm sure it needs polishing.
I dont want a mirror finish, I just want the fired cases to be able to be ejected by the extractor star. I know not to smooth the chambers up too much or it'll cause excessive force from the shells being pushed back by the pressure when firing and the shells not being able to grasp the walls when they expand. I also know not to let the brush get past where the actual case sits or it degrades accuracy. I know to keep the rpm under 720 when polishing which is easy enough for me.

I'd heard someone on another forum mention trying Flitz polish on a bore mop. Not sure if that's safe or not, never even used Flitz before.
Does the JB Bore Paste have to be used on a bronze bore brush with patch or can it be used on a bore mop effectively?

c3shooter 02-25-2011 12:52 AM

You can use it on a bore mop.

Ruzai 02-25-2011 08:27 AM

Thanks c3shooter. I'll keep an eye out for the stuff, if I can find it in town rather than order it I'll go with it first, just have to find a bore mop that isnt caked in powder residue or find a way to get it clean.

stalkingbear 02-25-2011 06:00 PM

I agree with C3-stay away from the power hone if at all possible. You can find JB here
BROWNELLS : J-BŪ NON-EMBEDDING BORE CLEANING COMPOUND - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

or JB bore bright here
BROWNELLS : J-BŪ BORE BRIGHT - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

Ruzai 03-04-2013 08:44 AM

I know this is an old thread, but I found the solution to my problem on this gun. Unfortunately for me, I have terrible luck and found another problem.

Well I used Flex-hone and managed to get the casings to eject fairly easily from the chambers once they were honed down a couple of times. I went slow and had to test fire two different cylinders worth until I got the result I wanted. No signs of high pressure or case splitting, however I did notice that the primers were backing out on one side of the primer pockets. Upon further inspection if found the recoil surface plate was bent in on one side. I went back to the first set of cases I’ve fired through the gun and found the same thing, so its been like that from the beginning and I just didn’t notice it.

I’ve downgraded the revolver from shooting anything +P or magnum worthy to keep things safe and I’m gathering money to buy a 5 shot 357 magnum to replace it.

robocop10mm 03-04-2013 01:24 PM

This is actually a normal condition on short barreled .357's. The short extractor stroke and the long .357 case do not play well together. What brand of ammo are you using. Different makers use different brass alloys, different thicknesses, different chamber pressures that lead to different expansion/recovery characteristics.

Not making excuses for rough internal finish on a Taurus revolver

jd45 03-05-2013 02:20 AM

I don't think you can get JB Bore Paste anywhere BUT Brownell's. jd45


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