Cold Blue?
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Old 09-06-2009, 05:41 PM   #1
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Default Cold Blue?

Which is the best cold blue? Right now I have Brownells Oxpho blue. It works but it is not giving the results I am looking for.

Has anyone tried Brownells 44/40 bluing?

I used some birchwood casey once but all it ever did was rust no matter how much oil I put on the metal after bluing it. I even went so far as to soak it in clean 10w-30 motor oil for three days it still rusted. This was in California too so the humidity was no more than 20 to 30% maybe even less.

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Old 09-06-2009, 08:21 PM   #2
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I'm interested as well as my old PPK could use a touch up. I'd heard Oxpho Blue is about the best so if there's something better out there - shout it out.

Tango, you using the "work it in with steel wool" method?

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Old 09-06-2009, 08:33 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpttango30 View Post
Which is the best cold blue? Right now I have Brownells Oxpho blue. It works but it is not giving the results I am looking for.

Has anyone tried Brownells 44/40 bluing?

I used some birchwood casey once but all it ever did was rust no matter how much oil I put on the metal after bluing it. I even went so far as to soak it in clean 10w-30 motor oil for three days it still rusted. This was in California too so the humidity was no more than 20 to 30% maybe even less.
Not trying to nit pic you bro but... Did you remember to rinse/ flush the blueling after with cold water to neutralize it? I had the same issue with a spot on a Mauser I touched up (using 44/40). Never rinsed it in water and to this day, it still forms rust. After 5 years, and that's no BS. Just a thought.
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:28 PM   #4
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Yes NGIB I am working it in with steelwool.

I talked to some of the guys over at RFC in the Mossberg forums and I am going to try Oxpho blue cream. That is what they have the best luck with.

On the first one I ever did I never did rinse it with cold water I bet that is why it would rust like crazy.......

I ust placed an order from Brownells for some oxpho blue cream (I feel so dirty saying that) and a 1911 bench wrench (Lost my other one OOPS).

I heard the 44/40 is very agrissive and will blue threw light (finger) oils.

I like the oxpho as it is not as agrissive so it allows you time to relax and not rush the process. I got one part that I did the other day and it looks real good.

I will see once the oxpho cream gets here.

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Old 09-06-2009, 11:26 PM   #5
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Different cold blues work well or not worth a damn on different steels. I have used Vann's (my personal favorite) on the muzzle of a Swiss K-31, and got GREAT rich black color on one app. Used the same product on an old Savage 22- and it might as well have been stainless steel.

Oxpho is generally considered good, as is 44-40, Vann's, etc. You might try Blue Wonder- good reports. And don't expect too much from any cold blue.

Instead of steel wool, go buy a cheap toothbrush. You can get a 5 pack at the dollar store. There is no oil of any kind on a new toothbrush, and no iron (bluing will attempt to react with steel wool- and much steel wool has oil in it to stop it from rusting).

Oh- and when all else fails...........

READ THE DIRECTIONS !

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Old 09-07-2009, 12:22 AM   #6
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Vann's & Brownells Oxpho Blue are the 2 best (IMO) there is in cold bluing if done right. You might try hot water bluing or rust blue for a better, more durable finish.

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Old 09-07-2009, 02:18 PM   #7
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I bought Blue Wonder a while ago and haven't tried it yet. It is supposed to give a nice deep blue and it is a 3 step process. The kit comes with it's own cleaner, a developer, and the blueing solution. I have used Birchwood Casey in the past with mixed results. Their Browning solution works great on my BP arms, but the blueing is touch and go. Preparation is the key. Even with the cold blue I still place the barreled action in the oven for 5 minutes to bring the metal up to 250 degrees. This gives a uniform color and not the blotchy appearance that sometimnes results. Rinsing with cold water between applications is key, as is keeping your paws off the metal - wear non-powdered latex gloves. Some sources suggest using MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) as a cleaner. Acetone can leave a film, and alcohol will attract water, causing oxidation - both will inhibit the blueing solution from absorbing evenly.

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Old 09-09-2009, 10:23 PM   #8
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Default bluing

Try Blue Ridge Bluing: Home

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Old 11-10-2009, 01:22 PM   #9
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The oxpho Cream is about the best stuff out there.

Different steels will react differently, so I keep a little of alot. Ocpho, Perma, 44/40, Vans, etc.

For instance, internal Enfield parts (No4MKI's and No1MkIII's) like Vans the best.

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