[jharder0002]

Why not re-blu it yourself? I did my AR after I cut down the FSB. Mind I wasn't completely worried about the final look of the product as a quad rail went over it, it it turned out great all things considered.

Left an old rem. .22 out in my garage in the summer and it got the crap rusted out of it. Just took some steel wool and oilto get it off, and then got sandpaper and worked down to 3000 grit and then just applied some bluing agent I got from Buds gun shop. It's not shiny steel anymore, but it's not gonna rust again.

[BillDeShivs]

Cold bluing does nothing to protect against rust. In most cases it actually promotes rust.

[doomrus26]

Cold bluing is not as good as it claims. I used it on a old mosin nagant. It came out OK but the cold blue is not the same looking and not as strong. When I get the time and money I will get it done. The trigger was gold at one point and the bluing on the receiver and the barrel were different. So one day it will be back to its old glory.

[superc]

Any reputable, professional, gunsmith will probably refuse to work on any gun that has been in a fire.

[skip]

I've cleaned surface rust off a few barrels, using a tip I got from one of Brownells books. Rub the barrel with a hard, round, metal shaft. Once I used a screwdriver blade, but since then I've been using hardened metal dowel pins. The rust will turn into a powder that looks like cinnamon, and rubs right off. The blue stays put, and there's no scratching. After it's finished, clean off all the residue and rub it down with oil.

Hope this helps.

[hairbear1]

I was recently given a Browning pump action .22 by my next door neighbour and as he has no interest in guns now he was going to hand it in but then remembered that I have a slight interest in guns and gave it to me.

It was in need of a major cleanout as there was a lot of surface rust and the stock was in need of refurbishing plus it had a crack just behind the rear trigger guard that was about 2" long.

I pulled the whole thing down and sent the woodwork to a furniture maker cabinent builder who is interested in doing a couple of gunstocks and told him to fix the crack as best as he could and try and make the woodwork look good again.

In the meantime I stripped the action down and cleaned everything in petrol and assessed what was stuffed and what wasn't and as it turned out everything just needed cleaning,oiling or soaking in WD40/RP7.

The barrel was a different story externally as it had rust spots everywhere so I grabbed some light grade sandpaper and scuffed up the rust spots and also removed the blueing on the whole barrel.

The surface rust in some places had gone in a bit further than I thought but not deep enough to worry the integrity of the barrel so I looked around the gun room/man cave and found some Aluminium acid cleaner that was left over from my days as a truck owner driver and proceeded to wash the barrel down with it. This worked a real treat and got down into the rust and removed what was left of the surface rust.

I washed the remains of the acid cleaner off in cold water,dryed the barrel and then used a wire brush wheel(soft wire) in my drill and polished up the whole barrel and then when all the rust was gone I then got some very fine sand paper and scuffed up the barrel and then applied G96 Cold Blue as per instructions at least 4 times.
Reckon it still needs at least another 4 coats to darken it up and you can still see where the surface rust has "bitten" into the barrel but it looks a lot better and works a lot better than when I 1st got it.

I haven't fired it yet as I've been trying to finish off my Ruger M77 22/250AI project rifle and now that this is finished I can get back to getting this 1 up and running,reckon it'll make a brilliant little cabin gun for knocking off rabbits and those foxes that get too close to the 4wd, regards

[huffmanite]

Originally Posted by skip

I've cleaned surface rust off a few barrels, using a tip I got from one of Brownells books. Rub the barrel with a hard, round, metal shaft. Once I used a screwdriver blade, but since then I've been using hardened metal dowel pins. The rust will turn into a powder that looks like cinnamon, and rubs right off. The blue stays put, and there's no scratching. After it's finished, clean off all the residue and rub it down with oil.

Hope this helps.

Gent I've read on other gunsites, not sure here, works as a firearms restorer for a very large gunstore in Ca. He would advise to use a 5 cent coin edge to rub on rust spots. Don't recall if he used the older nickles or newer made nickles to work on rust. Reason for the coin, much less likely to scratch the good metal around the rust.

[chloeshooter]

Originally Posted by doomrus26

Cold bluing is not as good as it claims. I used it on a old mosin nagant. It came out OK but the cold blue is not the same looking and not as strong. When I get the time and money I will get it done. The trigger was gold at one point and the bluing on the receiver and the barrel were different. So one day it will be back to its old glory.

I have tried cold bluing many time, following directions, not following directions....except as a touch-up I'd rather pay to get it done right and look good