Cetme 308
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Old 11-11-2008, 02:23 PM   #1
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Default Cetme 308

I bought a Cetme at the Houston Gun Show. Took it to the range to try it out. First the Flash Hidder I found out was glued on with muffler weld, I could not find it after the first shot, then about the Third shot, it would not feed good from the clip and would jam. I am going to try a new clip to try to fix the feeding problem, but the flash hider is another problem. I need to know where to buy a cetme flash hider and then what are the threads that are needed to install it. The end of the barrel looks like someone got a dremil tool and ground it to a cone configuration.

G24t

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Old 11-12-2008, 07:34 PM   #2
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Sounds like the Monkeys at century arms. Look for their name on the receiver or the initials CAI.
Pics would help. Is the barrel threaded? Standard HK-91 or CETME flash hiders will work if you have a threaded barrel.

Commercial .308 ammo is NOT recommended in this rifle. The fluted chamber and roller delayed blowback action is partiularily rough on brass. Thinner commercial brass is prone to separating and leaving the front half of the brass in the chamber. Get a stuck case remover and keep it handy.

7.62 X 51 NATO ammo is what that gun was designed for. The thicker brass holds up the the violent extraction of this gun.

If it is a Century build, it could have a plethora of problems. Ground bolts and false gap are big problems. For more information on what the heck I am talking about go to militaryfirearm.com. They are the CETME spe******ts.

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Old 11-13-2008, 10:32 PM   #3
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Default cetme rifle

yes, its a century cetme rifle. I was stunned to see the jb weld where the flash hidder was. It looked like a AR 15 Flash hider. Well maybe at the next show I can find another flash hidder. P.S. how do you post photographs on the web site. I want to post some photo's of G43 bcd.

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Old 11-14-2008, 02:15 PM   #4
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Century's are not a total loss. They can be salvaged. Ground bolts to simulate real bolt gap are the norm. Learn how to check gap, distinguish between real and false gap, recognize a ground bolt, install oversize rollers, etc.
If the barrel was cut and not threaded the only real hope is to install a new (or at least uncut barrel). Pressing a barrel is not too difficult with the correct tools.
To post a pic, click on the paperclip next to the smiley. Browse for the lic and up load. Best to resize pics first to Web large size.

cetme-002.jpg  
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Old 12-28-2008, 07:34 PM   #5
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Default Cetme Flashhider

Quote:
Originally Posted by g24t View Post
I bought a Cetme at the Houston Gun Show. Took it to the range to try it out. First the Flash Hidder I found out was glued on with muffler weld, I could not find it after the first shot, then about the Third shot, it would not feed good from the clip and would jam. I am going to try a new clip to try to fix the feeding problem, but the flash hider is another problem. I need to know where to buy a cetme flash hider and then what are the threads that are needed to install it. The end of the barrel looks like someone got a dremil tool and ground it to a cone configuration.

G24t
Sounds like one that I have, probably came from the same Gun Show. the barrel had been threaded, by hand and was off center. Someone filed the threads down, and put the flashhider on with bedding compound. It blew off with the first shot also. I was able to cut the bad part off, leaving a 16 1/4'' barrel. I had a muzzle break I bored out to fit over the barrel, and attached with 6 6-32 set screws. I've fired it about 25 times and no problems. Recrowned barrel using a hand crowning tool. Works fine.
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Old 05-10-2009, 05:44 AM   #6
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Funny, I picked up a Cetme about 2 yrs ago and have put about 15k rds through it and have not had any problems. It is one of my favorite rifles to shoot. Yet it is like anything else sometimes you have to replace parts to make it better. Guess I was on of the lucky ones.

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Old 05-17-2009, 06:29 AM   #7
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Yeah, CAI really seems to be hit & miss on their CETME quality. I was lucky and got a good one. The finish was rough, so I had it sand-blasted, then used a Lauer kit with extra hardener to ensure a tougher finish. Turned out great, and stripping it completely allowed me to give it a complete going-over for any problems.

Unfortunately, I had to sell it. I have a plate in my neck (2 blown disks & subsequent fusion), and the recoil was just too much. After 3-4 mags at the range, my neck would hurt for a full day or two afterward. Didn't want to risk another blown disk (degenerative disk disease). However, I got a good price for all the work I put into it.

One final tip: if you can't test fire, keep looking. A reputable seller could find a range somewhere if you're serious about buying.

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Old 04-02-2010, 07:59 PM   #8
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Default Scope Mounts for the Century Arms G3 Clone

I have tried to find the best scope mount for my Century Arms G3 Clone and found that the receiver is pinched by the "original german claw" and the weaver style pinch mounts with a picatinni rail. When each scope mount is installed, the receiver is pinched at the proper mounting locations to the point that the rfle will NOT cycle after the first shot and most of the time it will NOT cycle when the action is manually operated without a round chambered. Once either of these scope mounts are removed, the rifle does become operable again and functions normally. I have tried to be careful to not over-tighten the scope mounts but the scope and the mounts shift and eventaully fall off after very few shots if the mounts are loose enough to let the gun cycle properly.

I would like to put a quality scope on this rifle, but it seems impossible without welding a scope mount to the receiver (a last ditch effort that was recommended but may ruin the thin receiver exterior ). JB-Weld seems like a tacky solution but..., geeezzz.

The iron battle sights are questionable for accuracy at a longer range than 300 yards so I do want to add some form of other optics to improve the rifles performance.

Am I expecting too much from this gun ??

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