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Old 02-18-2011, 12:35 AM   #11
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I'd bobtail that in a heartbeat. If you like the full grip then welding and remachining is your only option. You could possibly do the machine work with a file if you took your time but a good tig welder is definately needed.

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Old 02-18-2011, 12:43 AM   #12
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Bobtail it and then make sure the mainspring housing is fully compressed and the pin hole aligned before you beat the pin next time? Is that how it happened?

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Old 02-18-2011, 03:37 AM   #13
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I had two smiths look at it--one wanted to cut the grip area in half & weld on a new lower half--would cost more than buying another frame--the other one said to throw it away & get a new frame--I feel I can make one of the two repairs I mentioned & then if I felt uncomfortable with it I could maybe use it for a .22lr conversion. I have shot it quite a lot with it the way it is with no problem. I hand load to a velocity of around 725-775 fps so the recoil is not bad & it is a low stress area as the pin is supported by the hole on the right side & the mainspring housing itself. I would like an estimate for the Tig weld if there is someone out there that could give me one from the photo. This is a Ranger frame from 1984 vintage but is strong every where else. Just mulling it over---Hmmmmmm

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Old 02-18-2011, 03:41 AM   #14
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jca1--thats it--a classic example of "don't clean your weapon while you are watching a shoot-em-up on TV"

As the saying goes:"I grow too soon old & too late smart".

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Old 02-18-2011, 03:48 AM   #15
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I've never held or seen one that is "bobtailed"--looking at the drawing, how is the mainspring housing retained in the grip frame? does this then take a special designed clip?

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Old 02-18-2011, 10:39 AM   #16
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Any magazine (not clip) that works for the 1911 will work in a bob tail.

Brownells has what you need for a main spring housing. Image of my Ed Brown.

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Old 02-18-2011, 10:43 AM   #17
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The mainspring pin hole is higher up on a bobtail than a standard 1911, and usually covered by the grips.

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