Blueing Gun Parts
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Old 04-21-2010, 04:50 PM   #1
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Default Blueing Gun Parts

Awhile back someone made a smart crack about how I have OCD and would be someone to buff off my blueing,and I hate to admit they are right.On my Single Six,on the interior frame above the cylinder,I scratched it pretty bad trying to clean built up lead,so I thought I would gently use an old emry board to buff it,but all I did was open a can of worms as the blueing began to fade,so I just buffed it all down even and used liquid blue to reblue that part,and it looks ok,it's black and noone would ever notice exept in direct sunlight with the cylinder out,but I want it to look like it did.The rest of the interior frame is very black and textured,but what I blued is more smooth.What can I do to get that area like the rest of the frame?

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Old 04-21-2010, 05:01 PM   #2
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Short of having it bead blasted - probably not much. Be thankful it's an area that is tough to see and consider it a lesson learned...

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Old 04-21-2010, 05:16 PM   #3
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To touch up bluing try using this from Brownells.

They also have a bit stronger formula called 44/40.

With Oxpho-blue it is easy to use as you just put some on a cotton ball and rub till your arms goes numb. Then repeat till it is as dark as the finish around it.

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Old 04-21-2010, 06:09 PM   #4
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I have had good success using cold blue. Degrease. Degrease again (I use rubbing alcohol for the second step). Cotton ball with cold blue. Degrease. Cold blue, etc til the desired color is attained.

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Old 04-21-2010, 06:34 PM   #5
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Maybe I was off the mark here but I thought the OP was looking for a way to "rough up" the area he had smoothed out. That's why I mentioned bead blasting. I agree with Tango about the cold blue products as I keep a bottle of Oxpho blue and 44/40 on hand for touch-ups...

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Old 04-22-2010, 06:41 AM   #6
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I'm not sure about this but, would it make a rougher surface if you used a mid-low count sandpaper, cleaned throughly to refinish it and then re-blued it? I'm not sure but I figure its cheaper than bead-blasting and rebluing. I've never had the problem with the surface to refinish not being rough enough honestly, so I'm just taking an educated guess at it. What do you fellas think?

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Old 04-22-2010, 08:33 AM   #7
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Look at Dura-coat (? spelling) at Brownells. I redid a Heritage Rough Rider that has seen better days. For the cost of Dura-coat, I can always do touch ups. They have interesting colors and finishes. Good luck.

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Old 04-22-2010, 11:53 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NGIB View Post
Maybe I was off the mark here but I thought the OP was looking for a way to "rough up" the area he had smoothed out. That's why I mentioned bead blasting. I agree with Tango about the cold blue products as I keep a bottle of Oxpho blue and 44/40 on hand for touch-ups...
Why yes he was.

I would use 220 grit sand paper or emery cloth and use the shoe shine method MAKING SURE NOT TO ROUND OFF CORNERS. Buff the section till the entire section of frame has the same look. Then degrease and apply cold blue.
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Old 04-22-2010, 03:14 PM   #9
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If you are trying to get a bead blasted stippled look ' you can take a chainsaw file and roll it like a rolling pin over the area and match it or blend into the area that isnot done. Reblue it after with the cold blueing that you prefer.
F.K.
P.S. try this first on a scrap piece of bar stock or the like to see if this is the right texture that would suit you.

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Old 04-23-2010, 01:29 AM   #10
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Right now you have a small imperfection that isn't noticeable to anyone but you. You have done a good field repair (cold bluing) of a small accident. Do anything else and you risk turning what is now only an imperfection into an actual problem and a headache ($$$). I would say just learn from the experience and resolve not to use anything stiffer than an old toothbrush when doing gun cleaning.

No matter what bluing formulation is used, it will never, ever, be an exact match for the surrounding bluing. Physically that would be an impossibility. Some may come close, but trust me, there will always be an angstrom of difference in the reflected wavelength. Even bringing the gun back to the factory where it was made would be a very iffy thing for the repair. They would disassemble it and reblue the one part. From the day your gun left the factory to the day of the reblue there were many chemical refreshes of the formula in their bluing tank. They may have even done a complete change of the fluid or the bluing methods. The end result would be a reblued part that no longer matched anything else on the gun.

You now have only three rational choices. 1) Send the entire gun back to the shop, have all bluing removed and a total repolishing, then have all the now polished, and buffed out markings re-struck or re-cut, then have each part re-blued enmass to the same color, OR, 2) have the entire gun sand blasted and parkerized or painted, or, 3) learn to live with the mistake and grow wiser from it.

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