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blue it or brown it or...?


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Old 03-08-2014, 04:57 PM   #1
deg
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Default blue it or brown it or...?

So here is what I have. A good friend of mine gave me an old SxS, don’t get overly excited here folks, still, I do appreciate him thinking of me first; I do have a plan for it. He said it had surface rust on it so he put it to the wire wheel, and then sawed the barrels to make it look like an old coach gun for a wall-hanger.

Here is what I want to do with it – I think I am going to make a lamp, we’ve all seen them, you know what I am talking about. My question is – I don’t know if this old dude was originally blued or browned and I am not sure I care, but I might, still trying to decide. Looking for a little guidance in this process to do it myself. Is either bluing or browning easier and is there one brand or technique better than the other? Or is there a better idea out there? Not worried about spending a few buck, but also not planning to dump a fortune into this either.


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Old 03-09-2014, 12:07 AM   #2
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Deg,

To me it just depends on if you want a newer look or the nestalgic look whether you Brown it or Blue it! If it were me, I thinl I would like the Nestalgic look on an old double side by side!

03


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Old 03-09-2014, 12:52 AM   #3
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That's the way I was leaning unless the process was much more difficult.


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Old 03-09-2014, 03:24 AM   #4
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Most cold bluing solutions impart an odor to the steel that never completely goes away. If this lamp was close enough to someone they could conceivably smell this odor. Also a large area like a whole gun can be difficult to get a very even coating of cold blue on even for someone with experience. Neither cold blue nor browning is very good at keeping the metal from more rusting.
Another option might be one of the many types of paint products available now.
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Old 03-09-2014, 03:41 AM   #5
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That's a good idea - what are they and is that something that comes from someone like Brownells?


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Old 03-09-2014, 03:41 AM   #6
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SXS shotguns were usually blued by Rust Bluing. There is a problem with hot caustic blue- the barrels are joined with solder. It is possible for hot bluing to eat enuff solder away that the barrels fall apart.

I have used Birchwood Casey Plum Brown on some muzzleloader kits- and it does a good job- BUT- metal needs to be heated with a torch to at least 275 degrees. Easy to overheat one spot in that solder.

You might want to do some reading on rust blue. Low cost, time intensive. Make SURE your lamp has barrels at least 18 inches long, overall 26 inches.
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Old 03-09-2014, 03:44 AM   #7
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What do you mean about the length of the barrels of the lamp?


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Old 03-09-2014, 04:00 AM   #8
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Found the Duracoat on Brownells site can anyone tell me which of those colors would give it the old browned look


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Old 03-09-2014, 05:40 AM   #9
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Cut down the barrels of shotgun to make lamp. Yes, I know it is a lamp. But if the barrels are on or with the receiver, and are less than 18"bbl, AND 26" overall, your LAMP is now a Short Barreled Shotgun. Yeah, so it does not fire. Unless you have permanently demilled it per ATF specs (torch cutting receiver into 4 or more bits) whether it fires or not does not matter.
And yes, it IS a huge WHOOP!- which is why I mentioned it.
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Old 03-09-2014, 01:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c3shooter View Post
Cut down the barrels of shotgun to make lamp. Yes, I know it is a lamp. But if the barrels are on or with the receiver, and are less than 18"bbl, AND 26" overall, your LAMP is now a Short Barreled Shotgun. Yeah, so it does not fire. Unless you have permanently demilled it per ATF specs (torch cutting receiver into 4 or more bits) whether it fires or not does not matter.
And yes, it IS a huge WHOOP!- which is why I mentioned it.
Good call – seriously, I wouldn’t have thought of that; I will check to see what he cut them down to, here shortly


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