Originally Posted by Jim1611
I am aware of his stock axxe55 but thanks for the reminder.
Here was my experience, just the other day. I ordered a Bell and Carlson Medalist for my Weatherby MKV and it's advertised to be a drop in. It's not quite as good a stock as what you bought but it's almost made the same. It has the bedding block. What I found was that when I put the action in the stock it fir okay but the flat surface behind the recoil lug did not touch. That let the action twist after it was seated, but the guard screws stopped that. Still I wanted a better fit. So it's now glass bedded.
As far as removing aluminum. You will need to remove some of the material but leave a small pad so that when you put the action back in for the glass to cure there is some of the original bedding bloc supporting the action. That way it can't go any deeper into the stock that it should.
I do believe, my opinion, that even an aluminum bedded stock will fit better if it's bedded. My work, tool and die trade, is measured every day in less that the thickness of your hair so I'm very aware of machining tolerances. Even as good as some of this stuff is made there are just too many variables for you to be sure the fit is perfect in an aluminum bedded rifle stock. It's nearly impossible for many different manufacturers to be sure everything they make will fit what someone else makes, ie. the rifle action and the stock. You can overcome this variable by bedding the stock to the action.
Thanks alot for all your help. I will be borowing a Dremmel to remove the portion that you described and should be shooting here soon.
-One last thought..i hear that when bedding the action, not to torque the screws until after the bedding cures. In my case with the aluminum block already present and only bedding the recoil lug- would it be best to torque before the bedding cures?
Reason i ask is i have also heard that you do not want the bottom, front or sides of the recoil lug to make contact with the bedding or stock-only the action side of the lug should have firm contact. If i dont torque before curing, is it a possibility that when i do torque, the few layers of tape on the bottom of the lug wont be enough to keep the bottom of the lug from contacting the cured bedding material once torqued?