Firearm & Gun Forum - FireArmsTalk.com > Gunsmithing & Do-It-Yourself Projects > Gunsmithing Forum > Bedding a 98 Mauser

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-11-2011, 07:05 PM   #1
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
jeepcreep927's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Newport,Vermont
Posts: 1,110
Default Bedding a 98 Mauser

Any advice on this? I've read don't do under the tang, only the rear. Do under the tang and the rear but not the sides. Some use pillars and some say pillars are no help on a 98. I am open to more opinions.

My thought was to do the first few inches ahead of the chamber, the rear of the recoil lug and under the tang.

The stock is a Richards Micro Fit Bench Mark, "99% press fit". It certainly was a press fit, and everything fit well but obviously tight. I relieved the bottom of the tang and just forward of the front ring. It drops in easily now. Not a lot of clearance but not forced in. I am wondering how much clearance I need before adding bedding material. I'd like to keep it as thin as possible and just "skim" it ,if that will be beneficial. This will not be a wet weather gun. Bright, sunny, warm days zapping 'chucks. Not a lot of recoil either as it's a .220 Swift. Any thought would be appreciated.

__________________

"People live too long, dogs don't live long enough" - FTF Member-

jeepcreep927 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote

Join FirearmsTalk.com Today - It's Free!

Are you a firearms enthusiast? Then we hope you will join the community. You will gain access to post, create threads, private message, upload images, join groups and more.

Firearms Talk is owned and operated by fellow firearms enthusiasts. We strive to offer a non-commercial community to learn and share information.

Join FirearmsTalk.com Today! - Click Here


Old 02-11-2011, 07:10 PM   #2
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: I see you, and you will not know when I will strike
Posts: 24,301
Liked 3474 Times on 1607 Posts
Likes Given: 3590

Default

Jeep - I am going to have to default to Bear or someone like that as I have never had to glass bed a Mauser before.

If it helps, the idea behind bedding is to alleviate stresses on the barrel, just an inch or so infront of the recoil lug or action, and give it a hand in glove fit to the stock so you can get the most surface area secured when it's bolted in place.

Ideally you don't want any gaps in the bedding area unless you have to cut relief for an external magazine or for the safety to move ( like on the Remy 700 ).

Good luck and remember: Release Agent is your friend.

__________________
Dillinger is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2011, 07:33 PM   #3
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
jeepcreep927's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Newport,Vermont
Posts: 1,110
Default

I am stumped here JD. I have done a few 700's (I know, I know ) and a Stevens 200 with good results, but it's easier to see where the goop needs to go with those, in my opinion.

This thing is turning from a "project" into an albatross. I started with a beautiful VZ action and way cheap short chambered Adams and Benett barrel. I want to absolutely burn this barrel up pushing 40 grain pills as fast as I can (sorta to Tango-esque). I think I can break 4400 fps. with Accurate AA-2520 and a 40 grain Ballistic Tip. I just want to do a half way decent job bedding in hopes of installing a decent barrel for better accuracy when I'm done dicking around with speed.

__________________

"People live too long, dogs don't live long enough" - FTF Member-

jeepcreep927 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2011, 07:55 PM   #4
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
stalkingbear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Lebanon,Ky
Posts: 3,621
Liked 10 Times on 9 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

You want to bed the back of the recoil lug, the flat directly under the front receiver ring, the tang, the bottom of the front ring in front of the recoil lug, and the 1st couple inches of the barrel in front of the action. Be sure after you get done that the sides and front of the recoil lug area don't touch the lug. It makes no sense to do the sides but DOES make a lot of sense to use pillars if you're so inclined.

What I do is with a small ball wood rasp bit in the Dremel I relieve the areas that I'm going to bed down the width of the bit's diameter and leave it rough. Leaving it rough allows the bedding to have purchase to bond with the wood. You'll want to leave "islands" so that you still have the exact same depth in the stock. What I use is Acraglas Gel and mix in a little fine aluminum shavings sometimes. Hope this helps and holler if you have more questions or I wasn't clear.

__________________

Sometimes you earthlings REALLY amaze me!

stalkingbear is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2011, 08:00 PM   #5
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
jeepcreep927's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Newport,Vermont
Posts: 1,110
Default

Bear, I will sign my life insurance over to you. I have been looking and looking with no decent, direct, definitive answer. Thank you a million, and then some. (I'll let you know if I break 4400. If you don't hear from me, you might be getting a check ^^^^^)

__________________

"People live too long, dogs don't live long enough" - FTF Member-

jeepcreep927 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2011, 08:08 PM   #6
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
stalkingbear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Lebanon,Ky
Posts: 3,621
Liked 10 Times on 9 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Always glad to help. Glad I could be of some assistance.

__________________

Sometimes you earthlings REALLY amaze me!

stalkingbear is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2011, 10:08 PM   #7
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
jpattersonnh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: South central,NH
Posts: 4,913
Liked 671 Times on 461 Posts
Likes Given: 674

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepcreep927 View Post
Any advice on this? I've read don't do under the tang, only the rear. Do under the tang and the rear but not the sides. Some use pillars and some say pillars are no help on a 98. I am open to more opinions.

My thought was to do the first few inches ahead of the chamber, the rear of the recoil lug and under the tang.

The stock is a Richards Micro Fit Bench Mark, "99% press fit". It certainly was a press fit, and everything fit well but obviously tight. I relieved the bottom of the tang and just forward of the front ring. It drops in easily now. Not a lot of clearance but not forced in. I am wondering how much clearance I need before adding bedding material. I'd like to keep it as thin as possible and just "skim" it ,if that will be beneficial. This will not be a wet weather gun. Bright, sunny, warm days zapping 'chucks. Not a lot of recoil either as it's a .220 Swift. Any thought would be appreciated.
The tang is the most rear part of the action>>>
When I did my Swede '98 in a Boyds stock, it was tight, but the barrel is completely free froated.
__________________

Freedom is not free. The best of us always leave too soon.

jpattersonnh is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Firearms Forum Replies Last Post
help bedding a receiver Mosin Gunsmithing Forum 5 06-20-2010 12:55 AM
Bedding- Right, Wrong Or Otherwise jeepcreep927 Gunsmithing Forum 1 01-13-2010 09:28 PM
Second opinion on Mauser glass bedding Fuzzy1 Gunsmithing Forum 2 12-30-2009 02:58 AM
Stock bedding Rex in OTZ Gunsmithing Forum 1 03-14-2009 02:44 AM
glass bedding sgtdeath66 .22 Rifle/Rimfire Discussion 7 12-21-2008 01:24 AM