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Old 09-24-2013, 05:53 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by KG7IL View Post
I would be careful using a Work-Sharp electric sharpener on a quality knife. A little to much, a little to fast.

Work Sharp does make great tools tho. I have their 3000 and it's great for plane blades and chisels.



I notice it has more attachments than the last time I looked.

http://www.worksharptools.com/woodworking/woodworking-sharpener.html
Many people get tools like this trying to make sharpening fast and easy, but sharpening is one of the things in life that should be done slow and steady! Too much speed creates heat, and heat can destroy the temper of the steal, ruining hardness of the blade. Grinders are fine for cheap knives or those you no longer care about, but for expensive, finely-worked knives they are death.

Congrats on your decision, Yunus! It's exactly what I do - use a steel almost daily when cooking and then give it to a professional when the steel doesn't work anymore.
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:01 PM   #12
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Use a steel and use it often. Steels are magnetic and do not actually remove material from your blade. What they do is realign the micro serrations on the edge. After a little practice, you can feel the correct angle on your edge when using a steel. I am and ex chef and can tell you a steel is your best friend, and I'll use it every day.

If you want the proper edge geometry, take it to a professional. You cannot duplicate they edge they can grind with the equipment they have at home. They will take off material to make the edge so you don't want to do this often. Even when working in a kitchen, I only had my knives sharpened once every couple of years. At home once every 4-5 years depending on need.

Also all pros aren't the same...you really need to find a good one. I've seen some real hack jobs. So ask around for referrals.

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Old 10-09-2013, 11:04 PM   #13
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i use this for my knives

very easy to use and cheap, 18$ shipped on amazon

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Old 11-07-2013, 09:00 AM   #14
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I use this sharpening system from lansky and have never lost a bet with a friend who's knife is sharper.
http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Universal-Lansky-Sharpening-System-P135C57.aspx
First I have not read the whole thread, I was just starting to and saw this post from Anna and she has the same system I have.
I've got a neghbor that they both (Husb&Wife) are chefs at two different resteraunts, I corrected mistakes from "Pros" and since have been their personal sharpeners. All this using the Lansky stones and I also have used and still occasionally use a 50 year old bench stone.
The main points on a quality sharpening is staying at the preferred angle (depends on use) stones are cleaned before and after use, ( no particles to make nicks or scratches), even strokes and same number of strokes on each side, FOLLOW THE CONTOUR ( if the blade is curved keep the curve, don't try to straiten it ), use appropriate lubricant ( plain water, mineral oil, cooking oil,) ( depends on the stones used the end use of the blade etc.
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Old 11-29-2013, 04:51 AM   #15
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The vid neglected to make clear that you should always finish up a sharpening job with a fine stone or other mild treatment .

Results sharpening with stones and free hands vary with the skill of the person doing it .

I've used a Chef's Choice power sharpener as well as the built-in power sharpener on an electric can opener . These devices are harsh and I would never use them on a fine knife .

Some fine knives from Germany ( Wustuf ) and Japan come from the factory with a steeper angle of grind for more sharpness . I favor looking at the edge as it meets the stone to get the angle just right .

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Old 12-08-2013, 06:00 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Yunus View Post
So I just broke down and bought my first quality chef's knife and HOLY COW is it better than anything I have used before. I used to not grasp or understand what the tv chefs were talking about when they would speak about cutting vegetables and say things like "keep your knife sharp so it doesn't slip", I was so in the dark that I had no clue what not slipping meant... now I do and I don't want to ever go back.

All that said, my awesome knife won't stay this sharp forever. So what do I need to keep it in tip top shape? Should I buy a whet stone kit? If so which one? Is the Steel enough as long as I take it to be professionally sharpened annually?

I kind of want to sharpen it myself because I'd rather DIY than pay someone eve n if that is cheaper but at the same time if I can't DIY for less than $75 than I'd rather pay a pro.
I use a chefs steel or a large ceramic rod to keep my knives sharp. If I spend over $30 on a knife I expect it to be hollow ground. One shouldn't need to correct the edge, just keep it sharp.
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:13 AM   #17
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Awesome, thanks everyone for the info. I have some reading and practice to do.

I know I won't need the sharpening kit for at least 6 months, the steel will work until then. Also the local kinfe shop will sharpen it for $4 so that's pretty hard to beat if I only need to worry about 1 knife.
Be careful about paying someone else to sharpen your blades. Many times they use a leather wheel on a bench grinder. You should never, EVER, see sparks fly when sharpening a knife. This is acceptable on some large tools, but for me, still not desired. Grinders are for shaping metal; and in my opinion, taking the nicks out of chisels and a few other tools are where their duty ends.

It should always be done by hand, slow and steady, with care and patience.
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:15 AM   #18
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That is not the Work Sharp devise used for home knife sharping. The Work Sharp is a slow controlled and very effective devise.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Work-Sharp-WSKTS-Knife-and-Tool-Sharpener-Kit-/380764553307?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58a756 005b

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Old 12-08-2013, 06:47 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trip286 View Post
Be careful about paying someone else to sharpen your blades. Many times they use a leather wheel on a bench grinder. You should never, EVER, see sparks fly when sharpening a knife. This is acceptable on some large tools, but for me, still not desired. Grinders are for shaping metal; and in my opinion, taking the nicks out of chisels and a few other tools are where their duty ends.

It should always be done by hand, slow and steady, with care and patience.
Well said trip.

Sparks indicate heat, heat destroys temper, temper is the amount of hardness at the business edge of the knife. therefore SPARKS DESTROY THE HARDNESS OF THE EDGE!
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:03 AM   #20
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grinding is one of the worst ways to ever sharpen a blade. it creates way too much heat and will destroy a blade.

i wouldn't even use a grinder to sharpen an axe or hatchet blade. i will use a file instead to remove any nicks or burrs, following up with a stone.

i use a Smith diamond sharpener for my pocket knives and a steel and or a ceramic stone for my kitchen knives. it has a coarse and fine sides on it and only takes a few strokes to bring the edges back.

one of these days, maybe i will locate my Lansky sharpener!

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