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-   -   Martin Jaguar take-down recurve. (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f32/martin-jaguar-take-down-recurve-29713/)

amoroque 07-26-2010 08:23 PM

Martin Jaguar take-down recurve.
 
1 Attachment(s)
Hey guys,
Just got a new toy today. Its the Martin Jaguar take-down recurve. I've assembled it today and pulled it back a few times. Seems to be a quality bow especially for $175 bucks.
And it came in a black plastic case with a few arrows an arrow rest, arm guard and tabs.

I'm thinking about going old school and using it for archery deer/elk season instead of my compound. (If I can get in enough practice in the next 5 weeks).

Dillinger 07-26-2010 08:27 PM

1) That's cool. :D

2) I didn't know they made a take down recurve. Can I see another picture of it put together?

amoroque 07-26-2010 08:49 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Here are a couple other pics.

I will let you know how it shoots, if there are any problems etc, after I hit the range.

Dillinger 07-26-2010 08:51 PM

That's pretty nice. These things have come aways since I was shooting them about 100 years ago. :eek:

Looking forward to hearing a Range Report on it.

JD

CA357 07-26-2010 09:31 PM

Congratulations! We will require range reports and many photos. :D

JonathanGlass 07-26-2010 09:47 PM

nice, I had the Martin Jaguar compound for a while until I had a little accident and both my limbs got cracked, still have the riser and am still trying to get the recurve or compound limbs for this thing

amoroque 07-26-2010 10:14 PM

Cool, you guys got it, I would be happy to do a range report!


I heard that you can contact Martin and get replacement Limbs. I also heard from the guy at the bow shop that, many limbs made from many other companies will fit the frame.

Franciscomv 07-27-2010 03:54 AM

Before I got into customs I had a Mamba recurve by Martin, very nice bow with a really smooth pull. I'm sure you'll enjoy your Jaguar.

However, the strongest limbs available for it are only 55#. I wouldn't use a bow that light for deer (especially not the huge red stag we've got down here) and certainly not elk. It might be enough for small whitetails, though.

amoroque 07-27-2010 03:51 PM

Thank you for the info Franciscomv. Arrow penetration is something I would like to check out at the range. I'll post some pics of compound vs recurve at different yardages and see what the penetration difference is.

I have heard of people hunting elk with 45 lb recurves?

Franciscomv 07-28-2010 04:16 AM

I've never hunted elk, so you might want to double check with somebody better acquainted with North American game, but based on their size I'd feel better with a few more pounds.

I'm not saying you can't hunt elk with a 45# bow, but I prefer to have a bit more power just in case. My hunting bows start at 60# (I only shoot traditionals) I really like that draw weight, it's pretty fast from a well designed recurve or longbow and coupled with some well chosen arrows and broadheads it performs well on anything around here. For big critters that hit back, I go a bit heavier.

Don't go rushing out to get a 80# bow, though. Hitting what you aim at and being comfortable with your bow is much more important than getting more weight. Practice, practice, and then practice some more. Shot placement is everything. A well placed arrow from a 50# bow always beats a miss with an 80# one.

Invest in good arrows and broadheads, no need to get the most expensive super high tech stuff, go for the tried and tested. Play around with broadhead weights to get the most out of whatever draw weight you settle for.

Did I mention practice? One of the great things about archery is that arrows can be used over and over again, no expensive ammo to worry about. :) Being a take down, the bow you bought gives you the advantage of using light limbs to learn and practice and a set with heavier draw weight to hunt with. I'm a big advocate of using a very light draw weight to learn. Consistency in your technique is of paramount importance if you're going to shoot recurves instinctively. Each time you draw the motions should be exactly the same, that way your brain can focus on hitting the target.

And remember the old saying "train as you fight", in this case it would be "train as you hunt". Shoot from different stances, try not to know the exact distance to the target and don't use FITA style targets. You're training to hunt, not to punch paper at the Olympics. Find something small, I use round red stickers about 1" in diameter (I've got some bigger ones for longer distances). Always use the same type of marker. Get used to it, and later on when you hunt just imagine your marker on the animal's vitals.

I think I picked up this "red sticker" technique from Jay Kidwell's book "Instinctive archery insights". It's quite good. I recommend it.

Sorry if this sounds like a bit of a lecture. It's not meant that way. I just want to share what worked for me. Like I said before, I'm no expert. I'm just an avid bow shooter.


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