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Old 01-22-2014, 12:15 PM   #21
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I use Arkansas wet stones and finished it off with the ceramic innards of an industrial light bulb.

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Old 01-28-2014, 05:01 AM   #22
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Default Knife shapening tips and products

I have the Lansky, but I also have a Smiths' yellow Grip handled ceramic, and a 4 stone set, also from smiths, with their own oil, but someone told me 3-in-1 is also good on coarse & medium stones, but not fine...no matter I bought 3 cans of smiths 7+ yrs. Ago, and still have 2 full ones plus a little in the 3rd..here is my 3 current most carried.....imageuploadedbyfirearms-talk1390888912.891633.jpg



Left to Right: Explorer Night Raider III toothpick, Kershaw Hunter II, Kershaw Blur...

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Old 01-28-2014, 07:15 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFootball View Post
I have the Lansky, but I also have a Smiths' yellow Grip handled ceramic, and a 4 stone set, also from smiths, with their own oil, but someone told me 3-in-1 is also good on coarse & medium stones, but not fine...no matter I bought 3 cans of smiths 7+ yrs. Ago, and still have 2 full ones plus a little in the 3rd..here is my 3 current most carried.....Attachment 134480



Left to Right: Explorer Night Raider III toothpick, Kershaw Hunter II, Kershaw Blur...
My experience, FINE stones require saliva.
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:28 AM   #24
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My experience, FINE stones require saliva.

I've heard that too, also cooking oil if nothing else is around, even light motor oil..
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:07 AM   #25
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Crock sticks, mainly because it's the only sharpener I'm any good with.
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Old 01-28-2014, 04:51 PM   #26
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The thread lives on! This is good.

I too like the Lansky. Primarily because of the control offered by such a system.

Of importance is the location of the vice to knife. Specifically the fore/aft location.
The length from the guide hole to the edge (hypotenuse) can vary greatly.

Because the distance of the hypotenuse changes, the sine, or angle of the stone changes.
Areas close to the pivot hole will be a wider, or blunter angle, those sharpened farther will have a narrower or sharper angle.

I tend to find the center of the major radius and think it though from there.

I like to have tip/forward radius a bit steeper (narrow / sharper ) than the straighter section nearer the bolster.

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Old 01-28-2014, 06:08 PM   #27
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I "hobby" work with leather all the time, so I have to keep my knives and awls polished sharp. (my awls will pierce "through and through" the thickest part of your palm with little effort and delayed feeling)

Currently in my tool box to accomplish this purpose you will find.

*Flitz polish *Mothers polish *Jewelers Rouge, red,green and white compounds, and various leather rub pads. (mini strops)

* Wet/Dry sandpaper sheets various grits from 600 to 3000 * 5 gallon paint wooden stir sticks * Mouse pad strips cut to fit stir sticks. and 2 sided sticky tape.

Basically I glue down pieces of mouse pad to a stir stick and dedicate it to a certain grit of wet/dry. I, attach a piece of wet/dry with the sided tape, easy to replace as it dulls. Also, the mouse pad has just enough give to follow the blade angle. (I push the blade "edge away" instead of "edge into" as most do with stones.

When you first start out you can use a sharpie to "color in" your knife angle to use as a gage as you go along.

I always finish with leather stropping..

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