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fighting knife with file work.


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Old 07-05-2013, 06:39 PM   #451
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One done. A bunch more to go to catch up. Then I will start selling my builds again. I hope.

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Old 07-07-2013, 07:36 PM   #452
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I got this one don last night after a 12 hr day at work.

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Old 07-14-2013, 01:40 PM   #453
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Just finished this one last night it is one I'm giving to the FOP ( fraternal order of police) to use as door prizes for the officers.
It has a black wood handle brass pins and copper liners with a little file work on the back for a thumb grip.

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Thin copper
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:53 AM   #454
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Latest done

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All 3 for the FOP Door prizes
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:21 AM   #455
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Great looking knives.
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:21 AM   #456
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This seems like a really stupid question... When you make the knives out of files and saw blades, do they have a really good edge on them when they're finished? What i mean is are they sharp and durable? What are they like in comparison to one of the really expensive knives on the market?
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:39 AM   #457
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There are many types of steel used to make blades and the prices vary greatly. But even a great knife maker like Randall made their original knives out of springs from Model T's and mine is almost 70 years old and has kept it's edge. I wouldn't worry about blades made from files and saw blades, or leaf springs. Griffin81's knives shouldn't have trouble keeping an edge at all if not abused.
fighting knife with file work. - Other Weapons
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Old 07-16-2013, 11:15 AM   #458
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My blades should hold up to any good task. I chop with each blade before it is sold. And then I paper test the edge it tells me if there are any spots that are not ready for sale. The only complaint I have about the industrial saw blade steel I use is it will rust if left damp or in a leather sheath in humidity.
I take great care of all my knives I own they are all out of leather and are kept clean and lightly oiled. This goes for my knives I have from other makers as well. A custom / handmade knife does not have the chemical treatment to fight off moisture like a factory made knife.
If one of my blades is used for cutting, chopping and slicing it should last several lifetimes. Now it it is used an a pry bar or throwing knife them it will only last as long as the owner allows it. My knives are cutting tools and nothing more. With simple care try will last longer on this earth than I ever will.
That's the fun about this pastime for me is knowing that something I built will last longer than I will.
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:32 AM   #459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatonespot View Post
This seems like a really stupid question... When you make the knives out of files and saw blades, do they have a really good edge on them when they're finished? What i mean is are they sharp and durable? What are they like in comparison to one of the really expensive knives on the market?
A Nicholson file made in the USA is 1095. It is no different than virgin 1095 steel except it's already made into a tool. Ground and heat treated properly they will hold a great edge. I've had my blades tested and the cutting edge is 59-60 HRC which I think is just right. In fact I think My sharpened 1095 feels sharper than 440c. L-6 sawblade and 1095, 1060 will rust because it is high carbon and has very little chromium.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:53 PM   #460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan308

A Nicholson file made in the USA is 1095. It is no different than virgin 1095 steel except it's already made into a tool. Ground and heat treated properly they will hold a great edge. I've had my blades tested and the cutting edge is 59-60 HRC which I think is just right. In fact I think My sharpened 1095 feels sharper than 440c. L-6 sawblade and 1095, 1060 will rust because it is high carbon and has very little chromium.
Couldn't of said it better myself. I have a ton of new files I just haven't been using them recently. I have one I've been forging on It may be next on my list to finish.
What do you recommend to help prevent rust on your blades. I use flitz metal wax before I ship a blade out. But for regular care I just recommend a light gun oil. Does that sound about right to you?
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