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Old 09-07-2012, 01:11 AM   #41
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I'm a little behind schedule. But I have a question, how do I remove the scratches?

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Old 09-07-2012, 02:18 AM   #42
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A pic would help. But I'm gonna say a lot of hand sanding up to 1500 to 2000 grit and then some buffing if u can.

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Old 09-11-2012, 08:44 PM   #43
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Another knife I made, not from the blank that I posted, the blade is scratched on one side from sharpening and testing,but it is all right because I made it to be used as a combat knife, the top edge isn't as sharp as the bottom edge, but it still did pretty good in the test.

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Old 09-11-2012, 08:52 PM   #44
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Old 09-12-2012, 01:28 AM   #45
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OK-I'm one of those guys who makes knives.
Forget Home Depot for steel. Forget saw blades and mower blades. Buy good steel of a known quality from a knifemaker supply house. After you make your knife, the steel has to be HEAT TREATED. If you leave it as-ground the steel will not hold an edge-it's too soft. Files are too hard, unless they have been annealed-then they have to be heat treated again to the proper hardness for a knife. Circular saw blades that are carbide-tipped are not knife-quality steel. Even if you find high carbon scrap steel, heat treating it will be hit-or-miss because you don't know the makeup of the steel.

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Old 09-12-2012, 02:12 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willshoum
send me a pm......
About what
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Old 09-12-2012, 04:57 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillDeShivs
OK-I'm one of those guys who makes knives.
Forget Home Depot for steel. Forget saw blades and mower blades. Buy good steel of a known quality from a knifemaker supply house. After you make your knife, the steel has to be HEAT TREATED. If you leave it as-ground the steel will not hold an edge-it's too soft. Files are too hard, unless they have been annealed-then they have to be heat treated again to the proper hardness for a knife. Circular saw blades that are carbide-tipped are not knife-quality steel. Even if you find high carbon scrap steel, heat treating it will be hit-or-miss because you don't know the makeup of the steel.
I agree with what U say but being new to blade smithing I use L7 steel that comes from large industrial saw blades and A2 steel that are smaller industrial blades. And I have had no trouble holding a edge.
I do draw back my steel the reheat treat and oil quench and I have yet to break a blade or have any troubled. I use these metals because it keeps my cost down which also keeps my price way down.
I have a friend who has been using the metals I'm using for years and also hand forging a lot of blades out of these metals and we both have yet to have a blade issue. But we use these metals because they are abundant and we have played with our processes a lot to get a durable blade. So far I've had good luck with it. Now I've only made 32 knifes so far but no edge problems and no broken blades yet.
I just can't afford to have 80+ dollars in steel and make a knife an sell it for a reasonable price. Now maybe one day I will do so but the A2 and L7 are working well for me. Also a lot of knife makers I see use blanks and just attach scales or antler and to me that's not knife building. All my knifes are one of a kind and made to be used and take as much abuse as they must be given. Now, This is just where I stand on my knifes and steel i use right now.

Any input u have on the metals I'm using would be great. Thank you.

Griffin.
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Old 09-13-2012, 05:13 AM   #48
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A 3 ft. piece of 1084 costs about $10. It's easy to heat treat. Canola oil is great for quenching. You will have much better knives if you use it. L7 and A2 are good steels, but heat treating them requires quite a bit of precision.

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Old 10-16-2012, 08:37 PM   #49
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Accident with that double edge tanto

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Old 10-16-2012, 08:41 PM   #50
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Another reason safety equipment is necessary

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