Originally Posted by BillDeShivs
OK-I'm one of those guys who makes knives.
Forget Home Depot for steel. Forget saw blades and mower blades. Buy good steel of a known quality from a knifemaker supply house. After you make your knife, the steel has to be HEAT TREATED. If you leave it as-ground the steel will not hold an edge-it's too soft. Files are too hard, unless they have been annealed-then they have to be heat treated again to the proper hardness for a knife. Circular saw blades that are carbide-tipped are not knife-quality steel. Even if you find high carbon scrap steel, heat treating it will be hit-or-miss because you don't know the makeup of the steel.
I agree with what U say but being new to blade smithing I use L7 steel that comes from large industrial saw blades and A2 steel that are smaller industrial blades. And I have had no trouble holding a edge.
I do draw back my steel the reheat treat and oil quench and I have yet to break a blade or have any troubled. I use these metals because it keeps my cost down which also keeps my price way down.
I have a friend who has been using the metals I'm using for years and also hand forging a lot of blades out of these metals and we both have yet to have a blade issue. But we use these metals because they are abundant and we have played with our processes a lot to get a durable blade. So far I've had good luck with it. Now I've only made 32 knifes so far but no edge problems and no broken blades yet.
I just can't afford to have 80+ dollars in steel and make a knife an sell it for a reasonable price. Now maybe one day I will do so but the A2 and L7 are working well for me. Also a lot of knife makers I see use blanks and just attach scales or antler and to me that's not knife building. All my knifes are one of a kind and made to be used and take as much abuse as they must be given. Now, This is just where I stand on my knifes and steel i use right now.
Any input u have on the metals I'm using would be great. Thank you.