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Old 04-18-2013, 09:55 PM   #11
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Lyman #2 is good for loads in the 900-1200 fps range. It is excessively hard for low velocity applications like .38 Spl, .44-40 and .45 ACP plinking loads.

True. but back "in the day" when the local newspaper sold off linotype for $20/hundredweight, I used it for making Lyman #2 for dang near everything from 38 full wadcutter to 210 grain loads for full power .30-40 Krag (with GC of course.)

Sure wish I could still go to the paper and get another 1/2 ton whenever needed.

When they switched over to offset, I bought 2 tons. Didn't last long though.
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Old 04-20-2013, 02:55 AM   #12
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That would be SWEEEEEET! I fell into some Lino a couple of years back. Traded some brass and bought some for $1.75/lb. I wish I could have bought a few hundred more pounds.

I just picked up about 100# of wheel weights from a local tire shop for $40. I would like to have about 500 more pounds.

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Old 04-20-2013, 03:58 AM   #13
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be careful most of the weights nowadays are steel. the lead ones are often contaminated with gods know what from china as thats where wheel weight metal comes from in most cases. be careful smelting it down.

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Old 04-20-2013, 05:42 AM   #14
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Many of the new wheel weights are a zinc alloy. I have come to recognize them by sight, but they are not a problem. I keep my pot turned down enough so the zinc weights will not melt. They simply float to the top and get skimmed off with the steel clips.

I segregate the stick on weights (pure lead) from the clip on weights (Lead-Antimony alloy) so I get two different batches of ingots. Each are marked with a sharpie so I can blend them accordingly for casting.

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Old 04-20-2013, 03:28 PM   #15
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Many of the new wheel weights are a zinc alloy. I have come to recognize them by sight, but they are not a problem. I keep my pot turned down enough so the zinc weights will not melt. They simply float to the top and get skimmed off with the steel clips.

I segregate the stick on weights (pure lead) from the clip on weights (Lead-Antimony alloy) so I get two different batches of ingots. Each are marked with a sharpie so I can blend them accordingly for casting.
What temp do you use for this?
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:49 PM   #16
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I do not use a thermometer, I judge by when the lead weights melt thoroughly. My thermostat is messed up on both my furnaces anyway.

Virgin lead will melt at a slightly higher temp than Lead/Antimony or Lead/Antimony/Tin alloy.

I was just sorting through the batch I got yesterday and noticed the "suspect" weights were mostly marked "fe". Of course I presumed this to mean they were "ferrous" or contained iron. Sure enough, they were attracted to a magnet. They got segregated right off. I will pay attention tomorrow when I melt/flux for other signs. I believe the zinc weights are marked "zn". I will confirm.

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Old 04-20-2013, 10:21 PM   #17
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I cast many thousands of 240 grain .44s ands 168 gr .357 from straight lino for max loads in my magnums.

Sure miss readily available linotype.

F**K OFFSET LITHOGRAPHY!

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Old 04-28-2013, 01:25 PM   #18
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when i get 5 gallon buckets of ww from the locate tire stores, it will have a good bit of steel and zinc mixed in, but about 3/4 of the bucket will still be lead. the steel and zinc ones never make it into my smelting pot since i go thru them all. I'm planning to pick up some 50/50 (lead,tin) solder and make my own lyman #2

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Old 04-28-2013, 07:47 PM   #19
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when i get 5 gallon buckets of ww from the locate tire stores, it will have a good bit of steel and zinc mixed in, but about 3/4 of the bucket will still be lead. the steel and zinc ones never make it into my smelting pot since i go thru them all. I'm planning to pick up some 50/50 (lead,tin) solder and make my own lyman #2

If you're casting for pistol only, try straight WW. I love 50/50 but it's gotten so damn prohibitively expensive
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:50 PM   #20
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casting your own is always going to be cheaper than buying them pre-made since your not paying for the labour and markup on the raw materials.

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