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Old 10-12-2011, 08:12 PM   #11
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When your decapping your compressing the primer from the inside. The decapping pin gives the force of the primer energy something to work with.

Judt remember a primed empty case has enough force to shatter the bones in the human skull. If you could raise the dead you could ask bruce lee's son how much damage they can do. It was just a primed case that killed him wasnt even a gun powder blank...

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Old 10-12-2011, 10:12 PM   #12
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While I won't advise decapping a live primer,I also have done it many,many times over the years.
I have never had a primer go off from pushing it back out of the case with a decapping pin.

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Old 10-12-2011, 11:08 PM   #13
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First, there is no such thing as a dumb question when it comes to reloading.
Little things matter and big things can go wrong fast as a result.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fmj View Post
Or will my decapping die set off the primer or make it inert?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Txhillbilly View Post
While I won't advise decapping a live primer,I also have done it many,many times over the years.
I have never had a primer go off from pushing it back out of the case with a decapping pin.
I will agree with Tex I will not advise anyone to decap a live primer.

If the case will chamber you can always fire the case in your gun and then
decap it. Remember to handle the gun as if it is loaded with regular ammo
primers can, if rarely, kill. If the case will will not chamber the case is ruined
anyway, I would just dispose of it.

Now I have a universal decapping die, I use that for decapping live primers.

I do not reuse decapped live primers because I have found 10-20% of them
will fail when reused. I just have a little fun with a my hammer and anvil
outside my shop with live deprimed primers. This is not advisable, but then
neither is decapping live primers.
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Old 10-13-2011, 12:17 AM   #14
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I'm looking into reloading. Still researching. But I seem to remember somewhere reading that pistol ammo shouldn't be crimped. Not sure of the validity of that statement though.

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Old 10-13-2011, 01:22 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockhouse View Post
I'm looking into reloading. Still researching. But I seem to remember somewhere reading that pistol ammo shouldn't be crimped. Not sure of the validity of that statement though.
there is two types of crimp roll and taper. handgun ammunition for revolvers should be cimped pretty good as revolvers dont have recoil springs and the mass of a moving slide to absorb recoil, this can lead to bullets being pulled a bit out of he case then jamming the revolver solid.

ammo used in semi autos should be taper crimped. only enough crimp to remove the case mouth flare should be used.
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Old 10-13-2011, 02:04 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockhouse View Post
I'm looking into reloading. Still researching. But I seem to remember somewhere reading that pistol ammo shouldn't be crimped. Not sure of the validity of that statement though.
I will disagree with the "blanket" statement that pistol ammo
should not be crimped.

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there is two types of crimp roll and taper. handgun ammunition for revolvers should be cimped pretty good as revolvers dont have recoil springs and the mass of a moving slide to absorb recoil, this can lead to bullets being pulled a bit out of he case then jamming the revolver solid.

ammo used in semi autos should be taper crimped. only enough crimp to remove the case mouth flare should be used.
To add to Jon's comments, heavy crimps do not hold much more than
lighter (but complete) crimps, the case is brass it is only going to get
you so far. Over crimping can deform the bullet and you can loose
accuracy.

Now, I reload .45 ACP and .357 Mag. both are straight walled cases
and a slight crimp works well on both. I use Lee's Factory Crimp die
with excellent results.

When reloading for high accuracy in my bolt guns I do not crimp and get
slightly tighter groups; often the difference of all the holes touching at
100 yds or not. But I am also only neck sizing those rounds as they are
fire formed to my chamber.

But all my hunting rounds are not only crimped but I seal them around
the bullet and primer. I have gotten very wet on occasions hunting and
never want a shot ruined by wet ammo.
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Old 10-13-2011, 02:58 AM   #17
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I crimp my 357 and 44mag loads. I try to get a good "bite" on the bullet with the case. I DO NOT want that bullet moving in or out during recoil. (this is how i got the case "accordianed" on my earliest failings that brought up this topic. too much crimp.)

I have also been known to seal rounds with clear nail polish ...but have also found they tend to shoot completely different than non sealed.

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Old 10-13-2011, 03:02 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmj View Post
I have also been known to seal rounds with clear nail polish ...but have also found they tend to shoot completely different than non sealed.
Interesting observation, is this on pistol rounds?

I have not seen a difference on the rifle rounds I seal.
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Old 10-13-2011, 03:08 AM   #19
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Yep, pistol rounds. .357..4"barrel..only explanation i can think of is the added pressures created by sealing the bullet to the case. How MUCH different, i dont know. Its something i have been planning on investigating further. (I found out the hard way, in the field ) Havent tried sealing the .44 mags for the rifle as of yet as we havent hunted with it yet.

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Old 10-13-2011, 03:40 AM   #20
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Ok realy do you want to take the chance of a primer going off. in most cases you will have powder near by or other primers. If you like me and have kids then its probably in you best interest just to go buy a new case of primers fro 30 bucks, and not worry with the big OOPS if something dose go wrong. As for the guy that states hes been doing it for 45 years i would say that is very irresponsible to advise a new re-loader to preform a task that has some dangers in that are very unforgiving.

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