I have heard a lot about what to use and how to clear. People say brass rods, wooden dowels or metal rods. Most people say to force it the same direction the bullet was traveling. What are your tips and techniques to share?
NRA, Second Amendment Foundation, Gun Owners of America
"Make your attacker advance through a wall of bullets. You may get killed with your own gun, but he'll have to beat you to death with it, cause it's going to be empty." --unknown--
First of all never ever use steel, you should always use a softer material like brass. I have never had a squib round (nock on wood) but at the SASS shoots ive seen a bunch. We have had good luck with nocking them out the way they should come out, but i have had people tell me thats wrong. I myself have told people to go the same way it was traviling, like you would do with a muzzeloader. But that what ive been told and IMO thats what i would do.
drop a cleaning rod down the bore most squib rounds arent into the bore much at all. had one in my AR15 no powder charge popped right out
had one in my sig p220 once winchester white box felt like a partial charge. bullet was halfway downn the barrel beat it out from the chamber end with a hammer and wood dowel.
"Gun control: The theory that a woman found dead in an alley, raped and strangled with her panty hose, is somehow morally superior to a woman explaining to police how her attacker got that fatal bullet wound." L. Neil Smith
The problem with being stupid is you cannot simply decide to stop doing dumb things...
First of all never ever use steel, you should always use a softer material like brass.
+1 never use anything that could damage the barrel. Wood or brass is safe.
Originally Posted by c3shooter
Depends on where bullet IS in the barrel, and on the gun. It can be rather difficult to drive a bullet UP the bore of a revolver, or many semi auto rifles.
I agree. I have only had one myself. .45 ACP no powder only the primer.
It was just into the rifling .375 brass rod and a tap tap from a small ball pein
hammer and it was out through the chamber. I would choose remove any
bullet to which ever end of the barrel it was closer to. Close to the middle
head to the muzzle if you can. With my 1911 I removed the barrel from the
gun and held it against a pine block to protect the breech face of the barrel.
This was part of my progressive reloading press learning curve.
__________________ An Armed man is a Citizen,
An Unarmed man is a Subject. -- Unknown
"I am prepared are you?" -- Shade
"Regulation, registration, confiscation, domination, that's the Progressive agenda." -- RED Caddy
Or try a length of brass brazing rod. Available any place welding supplies are sold and cheap. They are long and can be thick.
I keep one in the hard case I carry my M1A in. Pull a rim, hold the bolt open and just drop it in.
They cut to any length you want with ease.
A leather or plastic mallet and some patches to use as a bore guide (keep everything away from the crown) and you can tap away. Lots of light taps, not heavy banging, works the best. Keep the end going into the bullet as flat as possible, don't want to wedge or split/expand the bullet.
The shortest distance is always best, but when the receiver blocks that... Also, pointy bullets have the habit of slipping the rod down the side.
I have several squib removers. Some are wood dowels, but the aluminum ones the best. I keep 2 long ones ( .22 & .30cal) sizes. Then I have several short ones for Pistol & subguns (9mm &.45cal). Wood dowels work ok, but tend to splinter on the really pointed projectiles ie: .223. The aluminum ones work the best. I drill out a relieve so that the projectile is centered. Why do I do this - a squib can really ruin a shoot and here is some proof due to a OOB.