I think you should start with the metallic rifle cartridges.
The reason for this is that they will make you take your time, and you'll know when you've done a good job because you'll be rewarded with tight groups.
reload for anyone else. Sad state of the world today is that if you have a double charge in a case, you are liable for any damage to your friend.
Start slow. Weigh each powder charge individually and pour it in. Use a single stage press - don't try to get ahead of yourself with a turret or progressive press yet; this is encouraging mistakes.
I would do it in this order:
1. Buy a Speer reloading manual. Read it from front to back.
2. Get one of these: Lee Precision, Inc. Reloading Tools and Equipment: Anniversary Kit
While a Lyman or RCBS would be better, they are much more expensive. The Lee stuff will work for you until such time that you can afford a better setup.
3. After you learn to use the beam scale, get an electronic scale.
4. Buy a bunch of once-fired brass. Clean them, then run them all through the resizing/decapping die. Don't forget to lube them. Size as needed. Take about a week per thousand cases.
5. Prime each case. This should go a bit faster, but don't rush.
6. Affix a powder through expanding die. Count the cases into lots of 100. Start with the primed brass on one side. Weigh the charge, dump it into the case through the die, and then stand the case in a tray.
7. Affix the bullet seating die. Work with trial and error and a good dial calipers to get the proper length set. If the bullet has a crimp groove, just seat it to there.
8. Apply a light crimp to the neck if you do this in a separate step. Don't go overboard; mostly just take the bell out of the neck.
9. Load 10 rounds and fire. Check for pressure signs. If all looks good, you can load the rest in 100 round batches (or whatever number makes you comfortable).
I suggest the high numbers of cases be done the first time out for one simple reason: It builds muscle memory. When I started loading .45acp, I bought about 1000 rounds of spent brass and decapped all of them. By the time it was time to load them, I was familiar with the feel of the press.
I did take one shortcut: I used a powder dipper, confirmed the charge weight with a scale, and just used the dipper, carding it off each time. I got pretty good charges - not as accurate as a powder thrower and not NEARLY as accurate as weighing each charge, but consistent enough for defensive handgun practice.
After you shoot the loads, I'd stick to only resizing the necks if you're reloading for a particular rifle. The cases should now be fireformed to your chamber, and accuracy will increase.
You can now also play with COL: Put a bullet into an empty case's mouth, so that it fits fairly loosely. Hand chamber the dummy round and close the bolt. Slowly open the bolt, and measure the COL that the rifle has sized the round down to. Subtract a couple thousandths to keep pressure down, and start seating your bullets at that depth. This will reduce the jump from the case mouth to the lead when firing.
Hope this works out for you, and be glad I'm not advising the use of a Lee Classic Loader, though I probably should have
And remember, DO NOT RELOAD FOR OTHERS, and DO NOT SHOOT OTHERS' RELOADS.