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Old 02-09-2013, 06:30 AM   #11
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Rick it might be faster but it isn't the best way to do it. Crimping should be done with it's own die. You'll get better results if seating and crimping are done separately.



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Old 02-09-2013, 09:32 PM   #12
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Rick it might be faster but it isn't the best way to do it. Crimping should be done with it's own die. You'll get better results if seating and crimping are done separately.

100 percent agree!

Remember that uniform case length is CRITICAL when roll crimping. I have gone to the LEE factory crimp die. Case length is far less important, and the FCD is easier to adjust and use.


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Old 02-09-2013, 10:37 PM   #13
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I disagree. Taper crimps must be applied in a separate operation. Roll crimps can be done in the same setp as bullet seating.

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Old 02-09-2013, 10:45 PM   #14
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I made up another 90 today. No problems now. I lengthened the OAL by .050" and that put the top of the case near the top of the cannalure. Much easier to put the roll crimp in.

I'm loading lead 180gr RNFT 7.8gr Accurate No. 5. Shot 10 of them this morning and I was a little disappointed with the recoil. They shot nicely but quite frankly my LC9 recoils heavier. I was all geared up for more recoil based on the way everybody talks about how the .44 recoils. I did shoot some 180gr Remington Magnums and that got more intense.

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Old 02-10-2013, 04:03 PM   #15
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I disagree. Taper crimps must be applied in a separate operation. Roll crimps can be done in the same setp as bullet seating.
That's true, if you trim to uniform length. I don't trim handgun brass. I load in batches of 2000. Trimming would be quite onerous.


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