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Old 01-12-2010, 07:48 PM   #11
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I'm trying to be an information sponge! This is all really good stuff.

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Old 01-12-2010, 07:48 PM   #12
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* subscription worthy *

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Old 01-12-2010, 07:53 PM   #13
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Where's BILLYBOB44 and Tangoliscious, our pixie love fairy?

More data please!

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Old 01-12-2010, 07:54 PM   #14
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Yeah, I just wish Al Gore would send me some of his global warning so I could go shoot some.

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Old 01-13-2010, 06:26 PM   #15
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OK here is the low down from tango.

Don't go nuts buying a bunch of different bullets for one load. Also don't go buying a bunch of different powder for one gun.

Start small and work up. I can load 500 rounds of 45acp in a little over 1 hour. No big deal. It sometimes takes me days to finish up a batch of rifle ammo. go at a pace that is comfortable to you. and NEVER NEVER have distractions around you when loading. Soft music in the background is ok in my book but it should not be so loud that you can hear the sounds of your equipment.

Start with 1 bullet ask around and what not then pick the bullet you want to shoot. buy 200 to 300 of them and find a good load for that bullet. This is where I prefer the Sierra Loading manuals over many others. (Ask cane how good the Sierra manual is I sent him one for a late christmas present) they give you a little extra info at the bottom of the load data page. One is most accurate and one is best hunting load.

I have found that your best shooting loads are going to be withing +/- 1 to 2 gr of that accuracy load 90+% of the time. You will find that some cartridge like the same powders. 223 and 308 both use roughly the same powders so you cvan cut down on all the different powders that way.

Every manual is different. You will see that every manual is slightly differnt. DO NOT BUY any manual over 5 to 10 years old. Over the years loads have changed a lot and powder have gotten better over the years so your granddads load may now be way over book max. Here is what I do I take and get 2 manuals 99.999999% of the time it is my Hornady and 100% of the time the other is my Sierra I look up the bullet weight in each book and I take the lowest and the highest out of the two books and make sure i work within that limit.

Cases for normal everyday shooting, hunting, and plinking don't worry about cases other than SOMETIMES mil spec brass is thicker which lowers the volume of the case and cna cause an unsafe rise in pressure do to less room in the combustion chambers. Remington and winchester are good cases Federals are a little softer and may not last as long. Hornady is a good low end match case. Norma, Laupa, Nosler are top end brass and unless you are going for groups that will take the hair off a nats nuts at 500 yards the added expense is really not worth it. Hell I have seen guys on the F-class 1000 yard line using old RA69 mil spec 308 brass and out shooting others. Remember if you are using Milspec brass you have to swage or ream the primer pockets as the primers are crimped in. go easy if you are using the reamer a long time ago i make the flash holes way too big and ruined a bunch of brass lucky for me i have 5,000# of 308, and 30-06 brass in boxes in the reloading room. That was right next to the 10 or so 20# kegs of black powder we had as well.

Primer are primers some may be a little hotter flame but for the most part they are very close to the same. Take from that what you will. DISCLAIMER: Never switch components in a load. I have been using CCI, Federal, Remington, Winchester for many years and haven't seen much difference over all.

Get the phone number of an experienced reloader that you can call and bounce questions off of when you need to. I am very willing to answer any questions one has about reloading. I may not have all the answers but I can get you going in the right direction. I spend way to much time on FTF so if you have a question that can wait for an hour or two by all means OM the tango. If it is to hard to explain in the pm I will send you my cell number and we can talk about it over the phone.

Now I like to wear rubber gloves so the lead and grim stay off my fingers and away from my kiddos and pets. I would also tell you to get a decent pair of safety glasses. You never know when a primer is going to go off when you are seating it. It SUCKS big time ask me how I know.

If you don't know something STOP and ask a question.

NEVER EVER store powder in your powder measure. The chemicals in the powder will etch the plastic used in the powder hoppers.

NEVER EVER relabel powder or primers. that is a good way to blow you head off.

When at the stage of loading powder in to the cases I like to load five look at them in the loading block and make sure they all look good then I seat the bullets in them 5 cases and place them in the carrier.

I don't recommend tumbling live ammo some do. I found that something was happening when I did a test.

Become a Supporting Member here on FTF and you will have access to the powder tumbling test I did and many many other write ups done my other supporting members.

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Old 01-25-2010, 10:01 AM   #16
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I've found that the fastest and cheapest way to find an accurate load is by using the http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Audette+Ladder+Test&btnG=Search&aq=f&aql=&aqi=&oq=. I can find an accurate load within 10 shots. When I load developed with other techniques, it would take 40 or more shots.

I noticed that the loads I've developed in the summer were not viable in the winter. So If you are loading a hunting cartridge for winter, preform your ladder test in the winter.

All my bullet seating depths are determined by functionality with my magazine. I used to seat my bullets into the lands, .01, .02, .03, etc; from the lands to achieve accuracy with VLD [very low drag] bullets. I've found that to be totally unnecessary.

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Old 01-25-2010, 10:43 AM   #17
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kusterle, I'd love to add smething but between tango and robo, they've got it covered. I've asked both of them for reloading help in the past and they have both been very helpful. Have you picked out a press yet?

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Old 01-25-2010, 12:07 PM   #18
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Default New to hand loading...

Most has already been said. I did not see one: NEVER have more than one powder container on your bench at one time. This can cause many problems during the load session, and down the road. I always store powder+primers in seperate locations. If you can, start with a straight wall caliber case. It is the most simple to learn on. This is found mostly in revolver loads. I have more than several load manuals, but I find the most selections in the individual "One Load" booklets, found at most of the big box stores. If you are unsure of staying with the hand load process, do not invest in the high dollar equip. But remember-you get what you pay for. I like RCBS+Dillon, but I am/have been in it for the long haul. A lot of people get good use out of Lee products. Whatever you do start with a single-stage-cast iron press. It will not let you down, and will be of use later down the road. Buy-read several hand loading books+ make up your own mind, if this is for you--or not..

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Old 01-25-2010, 01:21 PM   #19
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Billy Thanks for pointing that one out.

yes never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever have more than one powder out on the bench.

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Old 01-25-2010, 01:56 PM   #20
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QC your ammo before declaring it done. over all length and over all weight. digital scale helps when weighing if i get a round that is drastically different it gets tossed in the bin to be pulled. really helpful when using a progressive press as sometimes the rotation of the prograssive can lose powder on loads that are nearly at case capacity or your technique is sloppy and your jerking the handle a lot. or you run out of powder and dont realize it. testing weight helps.

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