No matter how slow you go, if you don't try to understand each step and why it's being done you can mess up and learn nothing. Few "mess ups" are deadly but they affect the overall quality and accuracy of your reloads.
First, understand that all 'directions' about equipment use and adjustment are no more than starting points, it will remain up to you to adjust for the final results. Such as, adjusting a sizer so it actually allows you to rechamber the round can't be assured by turning the die down just so far and just so much further. Nor can adjusting for bullet seating, nor adjusting for crimping nor for OAL. Each requires understanding and that requires thought, not rule following.
Understand from the first that your initial ammo will only be "plinking grade", you will not be driving tacks right out of the gate. And calling your first ammo plinking grade is not a denegration, it's just a recognition that few manuals observe about early efforts but it's true anyway. After a few hundred, or thousand, rounds you will have the fundamentals down well enough to begin serious pursuit of more refined methods that can eventually do better.
Don't get obsessed with trivia. Make ammo, shoot it and have fun. Such things as trimming cases within .001", weighting to .1 gr. for pistol charges and rifle for non-long range ammo, passed maybe 400 yards, etc., is a waste. Nor does sweating to get OAL consistant to better than maybe 10 thou. Nor does tumble polishing brass 'til it glitters, clean brass
is all you will ever need. None of that stuff HURTS anything but it accomplishes nothing on target.
It is not necessary nor even helpful to lock dies into a press with a wrench, finger tight is all you need.
Don't agonize too much over which brand of press, dies, scales, etc, or bullet or cases or primer or powder is "best". None of it's magic, technique is much more important than brand. All of the tools are very good or they would not have survived in the market; some of it is vastly over priced tho. (We don't always "get what we pay for!") No matter what tools you start with, they WILL do you a very good job IF you use them properly so don't sweat over that.
Lubricate bottleneck cases lightly but completely, especially the lower third. It's thicker there and that's where they will get stuck in the sizer if not properly lubed. And do get both an intertia bullet puller and stuck case puller as part of your intial package, you WILL need both eventually and having them handy will relieve much irritation when the need arises.
Your bench is perhaps the single most important reloading 'tool' you will ever have but it's stength and design is rarely mentioned. Make your bench about 20" wide and as long as you can. Most benches are wood, you don't need massive 4x4" legs, 2x4" legs are plenty strong enough for strength.
Most benches are too low. You will like having your bench top at a standing elbow level for best work. Use a swiveling bar stool when working seated. And have lots of light directly over your head to illuminate the bench well.
You can work around obstaticals but it's better to place the tools properly for efficent work. No manual I know of suggests how to best arrange bench mounted tools. In fact, most of the photos I've seen have things positioned for photography, not working, and that's rarely very good.
For a right hander, put the press on the right end of the bench with at least 8" of free space to the right and 16" to the left of the press so you will have sufficent space to place cases, bullets, lube pads, etc.
Most presses get mounted too low. No matter the bench height, raise your press enough so you can fully depess the lever without having to bend over and your back will thank you!
Reloaders need a lot of (sturdy) storage. Make a strong 5-6" wide 'book shelf' rack and mount it on the wall above the bench, leaving maybe 12-14" of clear space between it and the bench top so it doesn't eat bench space. Have one lower and wider shelf (maybe 10" wide) at nose to chin level, and place your beam scale/trickler there so each can be easily seen and reached. (Poor beam scale location is, IMHO, the main reason some people think they are "slow" to use; they really ain't so slow but a lot of users are!
Do NOT mount your powder measure on the press (unless you have a progressive or an auto-indexing turret) or on the front edge of your bench, both are very poor positions for quick, smooth work practice. Place your powder measure's bench stand about the middle of the top, well away from the bench edge, and just to the left of the press. Pivot the stand before bolting it down so you can easily reach the measure from the press position without moving. Then place your scale and trickler on the shelf pre-positioned for them, and just to the left of the measure. With powder tools placed this way you can easily drop charges, weigh and trickle them up and drop into cases standng in a loading tray then quickly move to the next OR just drop charges directly into the cases in a tray. Done this way, no digital powder weighing system is much, if any, faster than a beamscale/manual measure, over all. And, no matter what I said above, you WILL want/need to acccurately weigh individual charges at times, especially when you do intial development work and eventually get around to accuracy development. (I really meant just not to .1 gr. ALL the time!)
Lots more ol' hand's thoughts to share with newbs but I'm getting carpal tunnel. Good luck!